Russell griffiths

Give that man a clap @Barney12 you are the winner sir, they are in fact ceiling tiles,piles and piles of ceiling tiles they are quite thin so they put three layers on.

Yeeea haaaa had a red ants nest behind it that made me reach for the hoover quickly. What a bloody mess.

This is exactly what they have done. Except they have insulated behind the chipboard.............. see my other thread in insulation to see what they used. ??

I knew you wouldn't be far away. You want to see what I uncovered today in my house of horrors. Every job I do here confirms the need to knock it down. Pics to follow.

So I've uncovered some white insulation stuff behind my wall surface. Who wants to have a punt as to what it is.

Just want to do a little survey, would anybody recommend chipboard as a tile backer in a shower enclosure.

That sort of makes sense all the creepy bitey things around our place like a warm dry gap. Not a draughty bright area.

What are these frames for. Screening? Why not get the main frame welded by someone else and then fit them out yourself. I have been looking at industrial type pop rivets for fitting ally planking on a frame. That is a tool I could find a use for very regularly.

I do a lot of mig on mild steel, but always sway away from Ali as having to get different gas with the cost of the bottle and other bits unless you have at least a project a month lined up the initial outlay is just to high.

This is a channel I look at now and again, you need to take into account his location though as the climate is a bit different in Texas. But he does use a lot of European manufactured products.

This is something I need to look into for the new house. In our last house all hot water except the kitchen sink went through a main TMV, can this be done instead of TMV on outlet point of showers. Whats the rules on scalding yourself on the bath hot tap.

Oh my god you don't let your wife near anything that controls temperature i spend my life walking about in my undercrackers after she started messing with controls.

So if I forget the pump and go and buy one of those eye wateringly expensive Mira mixers, should I still fit a Sussex flange to feed the hot. Cheers russ.

Ok captain smarty pants @Nickfromwales am I over complicating things by adding a pump? If I could get away with out it would be good. My cold tank is directly above the bathroom, so can I cut a new hole in the tank for a direct feed to the mixer? Or just T in to a supply line out of the tank. Regarding the hot what does the Sussex flange do. If i T of a hot supply how will this affect the other hot supplies. God i I hope I haven't dug a big hole for myself I ripped out the old shower last night. ??

Ours looks like this.

@Roger440 where'd ya get the ute mate.

Going to put a pump on,new tray new tiles. Just would like to keep the budget down as it breaks my heart to spend anything on it. Looked at a couple today, first one was £130 second one £230. So was after some ideas.

Evening all, I hope @Nickfromwales isn't to far away. So please read this first bit as it has quit a bearing on why I don't want to spend to much money. The house we live in I would like to eventually knock down so I'm trying to hold it together with gaffa tape and multiple coats of emulsion at the moment, but the wife declared that she could not stand the piddly old shower anymore and it had to go so hence me not wanting to spend a lot of doe on it. What i I need is a mixing valve that can be fitted and maintained from the front, the fear I have is we have exceptionally nard water and the scale is terrible, so I am concerned about fitting something that I Cannot get at if I have a problem, ideally I would like a big face plate that can be removed and any screens or filters removed so it can have a flush out or de scale. The shower head will be located away from the mixer so a bar mixer with flexible hose is no good. Thanks skinflint russ.

As this is a place for sharing knowledge, I will pass on something I work to, first truck needs to be on site for 8.am, no later if they can't do this I don't want it, this gives you a couple of hours to get it in place and still plenty of time for cock up factor. The only time I will have it any later is if it's being poured straight into a mass footing. This is not a dig at Pete but hopefully a useful tip for anybody contemplating a bit of concreting.

I feel your pain. Been there done that. I would say that a power float will not touch it tomorrow. 1. You could hire a scabbler and knock all the high spots off, then when cured you could use a floor leveling compound. 2.you could get a company in to grind the surface and then clear epoxy it. 3. If you intend spending a fair bit of time out there I would use a levelling compound and then a nice vinyl tile.

The thinner 100mm concrete prestressed lintel will be way overkill. No load on that at all

I'm sure you are, you obviously put a great deal of effort in to get it right. But @LeanTwo has asked for ideas to get a good finish, I would hate for him to think that giving it a good tamping with a piece of timber is going to get him the finish he needs. And having some prior insight into how to trowel it up could help him out on the day.

Why not just swap the 6inch for a 4inch 840mm is not a large span if only carrying a light load.

I would think you need to look at how you are going to get a good finish If you want this as you finish concrete before the final floor covering goes down, tamping with a board will not be good enough, you will have to trowel the surface up when it has started to set, you will need to make up a board system so you can reach the whole way across to the centre, you will only know when it is the right time to trowel up by having a go and looking at the finish, if it's to wet have a cuppa and try it again in ten minutes.