Russell griffiths

Wouldn’t it float. I could put a motor on the back. Now we’re getting silly.

As nick said. Your overall sq m is not that big so you could rip the lot out, hardcore, dpm,insulation,ufh, and concrete.

No wheels it has a couple of4x12 timbers that run the full length these sit on pad stones of concrete blocks so it is off the floor by 450mm. All this talk about asbestos has got a bit carried away, I’m 99% certain there would not be any, I wanted to find out how I could demolish it without having to have an asbestos survey as I don’t want the expense, I think I answered my own question after remembering it was built in 1990, so going to do some research on the manufacturer. It would make somebody a perfect home while they build, it has a small kitchen, bathroom, 3 beds and full central heating. I am just looking at the most pain free way to get it gone that costs me the least amount of dosh. Up until a year ago it was occupied and has been for the last 20years.

Big hammer

It comes in two pieces, join down the middle, was delivered on two artics, will need a crane and two artics to take it away. My planning consent is for the spot the cabin sits on, I can only move it to a different spot if I take it completely apart as the track around the lake is not wide enough, I’ve got enough to do building a new house, I really don’t need another project, I thought about stripping off all the ship lap but would end up storing it for a couple of years while I build the house. Is it really worth it. Get it gone so I can crack on. Will be going on e bay for 99p

Come and get it @Nickfromwales

Unfortunately the cabin required planning consent to put it here so the council have the date that was granted so will have to stick with 1990. Looking for a manufacturer sticker so I can ask some questions. We do like a bonfire

Looking into the cil tomorrow to get confirmation, it looks like Cotswold district council have not adopted it, but will be checking.

The cabin is a permanent dwelling, this is how we managed to get planning consent.

Just had some thoughts regarding asbestos. If the cabin was constructed in about 1990 then surely there would be no asbestos present as it had been outlawed by then.

Blooming hell £500for the survey, I’m definitely going to try and sell it.

Can anybody tell me how I am supposed to know about regulations regarding demolition of a timber cabin, I’m going to try and sell it but I think with the work involved in moving it this could be unsuccessful, so if I take it to bits how am I supposed to know the correct procedures. Can I just act dumb if the council suddenly turn up. I intend getting in a big skip for the insulation and roof felt. If i do get the correct paperwork do I have to have an asbestos survey, I’m just trying to do this as cheaply as possible and really don’t want to go having to pay another bod to turn up and tell me there’s nothing present when I already know that. Cheers dodgy russ.

How about doing the bottom foot a different colour as that looks damp and will probably require more frequent work.

Of topic sorry. How are you finding the nudura.

This was asked a couple of weeks ago I don’t know how to put up a link to that topic, but it was asked by @vfrdave if that helps you find the answer. The back of your place looks very similar to what we will be doing. Any more pics. Is there any reason the steel beam was not incased in the icf ?

More pics as you progress please @Triassic I spoke to amvic at the build show on Saturday and also nudura, both seem very knowledgable, the nudura product looks to have had a lot of research put into it. The nudura rep also lives 15mins away from me so could be good to get a bit of a friendship going.

Thanks for everything I’m sure I could have done a search but was being a bit lazy. Just like Cotswold district council as they haven’t implemented it yet. Thanks.

Can anybody tell me is the cil payable for a replacement dwelling, I mean if you already had a house that you are going to replace then surely what additional infrastructure is needed ? if it is applicable how do I go about getting my exemption, as it is a self build, dying to get started but must get these issues sorted first. Cheers.

Our roof is made up of 3 separate mono pitches that I would like to either use a steel web joist or a jji joist, what I need to find is somebody to design the structure to make sure they can take the loads and also not blow off, we have some large overhangs up to 1500mm in places. So before you all shout architect I will say that I think we have come to the end of the line with him and need to look for somebody new. Has anybody used one of the actual joist suppliers to do any design work, or shall I look at finding an architectural technician, or I was going to give Cullen timber design a call. Anybody have any thoughts.

So after 14 months of stress and worry we were granted full consent, for a replacement dwelling on our plot. A couple of years ago we where told we would not get planning full stop, so being a bit of an awkward bloke I decided to go for it. We have had to jump through plenty of hoops and spent a big chunk of cash but it’s done, PASSED. I would like to thank @JSHarris for his encouragement in making a scale model, I think this shocked our planning officer to the detail we had put into our application, I think he was also shocked when I produced photos from the 60s showing our plot and our neighbours house. so the moral to this is don’t give up if you feel you are right and also supply as much supporting evidence as you can. Im going to add up all the bills and see what it has cost us, if anybody is interested I will put them up. Thanks to anybody who offered advice or encouragement. Russell and Lorraine Griffiths.

As a quick sort of reply, @Russdl you are not allowed to disturb a nesting bird or a bird building a nest, you should not cut back any hedges using mechanical means after March the 1st however like everything in life you can get around things if you put things in place, if you carry out a survey to prove nothing is nesting it can be removed, however you will probably need some college plonker with a degree to carry out the survey. The simplest thing to do is get it all cut down before they start nesting.

Just a heads up to anybody planning on doing some site clearance, or tree/shrub removal make sure you have put the wheels in motion to get it done before bird nesting starts, usually March the 1st if you are going to be using any mechanical means of removal. Ive just had the lads in with a big flail to smash all the hedges back, even though we are still in discussions with the planners, the last thing you want is to get consent and not be able to proceed because of a bit of hedge in your way.

As far as other finishes are concerned you can have any finish you want ,the icf is just the structure just like timber frame you can fix plasterboard on battens, tile, timber boards,timber sheets, have a look at a website called Houzz thousands of ideas.

A friend of mine is building a very modern build with board finish concrete on the inside, he is basically making the shell a concrete box with insulation stuck on the outside, it’s all been designed and looks cracking. The only problem is he can’t find anybody to build it, the general builders just haven’t got a clue unless it’s traditional brick cavity, so he’s having to look at civil Engineering companies. I would look on YouTube at the builds in the states as they are far more up on these methods. Also look at an icf product that only has insulation on one side and plywood on the other, you could substitute the ply for boards to give you what you want, however you would need to increase the insulation on the outside to make up for the lack of it on the inside.

So thinking out loud here, if you swap the timber floor for concrete have you thought where your new electric wires will go and your central heating pipes. In an old house like that it is going to be hard to find places to conceal it all, unless you like surface run pipes. Also you need to consider the final floor finish, getting your average builder to concrete that floor will leave a finish not that flash, so unless he is told it must be to a certain standard I think you will be disappointed with what you get, and having to do extra work to make it good enough for carpet, laminate or tile will be extra expense. On another topic topic you say the upstairs wall bows out by a couple of inches. Lenthening the joists to meet the wall again does not really seem like the correct thing to do. Maybe you should get a builder in with a good rep and local knowledge of these houses. Just my thoughts.