Russell griffiths

Mine has been designed with rodding points at the far end so you can give it a push through you will get a fair bit of sediment from the roof dust of tiles, bird poo, leaves. No ic at bends but definitely a way to get in it I think you can nominate to use bottle gullies with rodding points, but they are a pain to get a rod into but then again you can always use a high pressure hose

If you’ve already got it why not buy the cheapest gloss paint you can find and like @Onoff said coat the edges really well bfo roller should see it not take long.

Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES cut into the beams you can chop the infill block as much as you want. Is there a reason you haven’t run a 4 inch pipe into that end of the room i would smash out a block and get a torch, and look under the b+b if possible run a 4 inch to that room.

Have a look at a product called medite smart ply they do one specifically for site fencing so it will be outside for months.

Ceiling fans, having lived in oz, we will have ceiling fans in the vaulted section of the main living area.

As an alternative method kango up the old concrete into tiny bits, leave in situ add a layer of type 1 and whacker down firm blind with a thin layer of sand damp proof membrane insulation ufh concrete topping with mesh.

Tie the top in to stop it tipping. Leaving a little slack in the rope. Put longer bearers under feet, pull each leg with the digger

Put the battens on as you go up the roof so you stand on the battens not the membrane if you just put the membrane on all the way up what stops A. You falling through the rafters to a horrible death B. It blowing off, staples alone won’t be enough

Do you have to go up the chimney our fake gas wood burner goes through the wall, out the back of the chimney, not up it. Obviously you end up with a surface mounted flue on the chimney stack, so just depends if it’s in a noticeable area. Just a thought.

You need to do this job really well with a liquid type dpm not plastic sheet as you will never join it neatly enough to be effective my friend had exactly the same built and lined them badly, he has regretted it ever since, the render has started to spall the paint blisters it is a total mess the damp is trying to travel from the inside and escape through the very porous blocks. Have you tried a product called synthaprufe.

Why are you not paying the architect, you said he had done 2 designs and wants some money, what is the problem has he not done what he was contracted to do, was it an agreement that you don’t pay until planning is obtained. I wouldnt avoid him, you may find yourself on the wrong end of a solicitors letter.

https://pin.it/n2miluiuznln43 like this one.

They make a nice work vest like our European cousins wear that have Velcro on the front breast, to this Velcro you add any attachment you want the main choice is a metal plate to hold your screws.

Evening, just thought I would put this out there, even though it is very short notice our steel driven piles are going in this week if it is something anybody wanted to look at to get an idea of how it works I would be happy for anybody to visit. Site is near Cirencester, Gloucestershire

If you keep a true cavity then you will have a wonky inner wall is that what you want, wonky walls might look good in a 200 year old cottage, but I would much prefer mine nice and true.

Have you lifted any to see how they are stuck down the original ones will probably be stuck down with a type of bitumen see what the moved ones are down with.

I struggle with posts like this when not accompanied by photos it is hard to give an accurate response when trying to guess how bad it is. Any pics.

I’m going to go out on a limb and say subsidence looks like solid floor has dropped causing a crack in that location. .????????????

the Fitting @LeanTwo posted up is what you want. Be careful screwing a fitting with a rubber washer up to a ball type valve as the mating face is not flat and can cut the rubber, even though it will work it’s not correct in my opinion and you need the adapter.

Hijacking this thread, if I want ufh in my garage, what is a good method of coping with the different floor levels, my garage will be 100mm lower than the house floor. What is a good way to route the pipes between these two levels. Sorry for hi jack. Russ.

When working in oz the lads would be on a roof at 5 in the morning 2 pm time to go fishing.

Bloody fancy pants. Top knotch that is bud. I take my hat off to you.

I have done this before, as you said coil it up neatly and hang it on a nail on the pole.

Why put a cramped caravan inside ? why not just make the garage to a better spec and live in that with a temporary timber extension where the garage door would be when finished it could be used as a home office gym or whatever if you up the spec.

Have a look at the you tube series pure living for life. They are living in an rv whilst building a house, they have built an awning on the side that has a wood burner inside, this heats the awning and dries their work clothes and keeps the rv toasty. if I had to live on site this is what I would do. Ps. Ignore how they are building their house, as it’s one cock up after another.