Russell griffiths

I was quoted £1 per prop per day, so he has probably saved you a few quid.

No mortgage. Just need insurance to cover anybody working on site.

Had thought of that, but I’ve got about 14 already so would prefer to not have them nearly every m around the house.

32mm coming of a 50mm test was carried out 200mm from the metre 100m of 50mm that reduces to 32mmfor the next hundred

So to put you all out of your misery as your probably on the edge of your seats waiting for the result i filled a 1000 litre tank in 16 minutes so looking at all your guesses that seems very good maybe one less thing to worry about.

Do you think 68mm would have enough volume and air flow to satisfy bc i was thinking 100mm underground duct with 100mm round vents.

Ok so I’m having a block n beam floor, so telescopic air vents,connected to an air brick now because I’m strange and like to be a bit special I would like round vents on the outside, these do not need to be brick shaped as I won’t be having any brickwork visible what im after are people’s thoughts on the type of flexible pipe to run in my wall void and down below the floor level i was thinking about 100mm duct the heavy duty type for underground, not the white curly stuff you use on an extractor fan. What do you think, utter lunacy cheers russ.

Evening, I could probably had a search for this, but it’s hot and I’m tired could anybody recommend insurance companies for our build what I would like any lads coming on site will be insured against an accident which results in them being hurt ranging from the odd job man down the road who helps me now with the odd thing or two, to a subby chippy who has his own company but as a sole trader, including the two lads that work on the big site down the road who are giving me a hand just on weekends. I would like like to be able to add on insurance on the building itself but only when there is something on site worth insuring from my point of view, for the first month we are just doing Groundworks, the second month is icf walls, I can’t see any reason to insure the pipes in the ground or that someone is going to nick my icf blocks not needed. Building warranty tool insurance Cheers hot and tired in Cirencester.

Any thoughts @JSHarris I believe you did a bit of testing on your bore hole supply.

Hi all after a previous question I thought it best to carry out a flow test on our new water main so i couldn’t think of any more professional way to carry this out apart from get a big bucket and see how long it took to fill it up so I filled a 1000ltr ibc tank up from our main pipe in……………………minutes would anybody have any educated guesses on how long it should take to fill up with the pipe going flat out. Cheers russ.

I’d have a look at the new exterior grade boards by a company called medite smartply.

Show us a picture and tell us the area you live and someone will give you a ball park figure of what it will cost.

Ok 300mm it is then sorted. ??

Don’t even consider that mdpe it is the most unbelievable awkward stuff to use 3m lengths with joins is the norm, don’t try and reinvent the wheel. The pic is a bracket you can use. I personally wouldn’t as no matter how close you place them over time you WILL get settlement and a small bow in the pipe i would want a full bed under the pipe for full support, either pea gravel or a lean mix of concrete i have four toilets going in and two of them are internal so no other way but to have pipes under the floor, I do not consider it a problem

Flooding from ground water may not happen, but what about rain. A deep trench with 250mm of concrete in the bottom will fill up like a bath tub if you get a good down pour. Shallow trench can be swept out with a broom and bailed out at a low spot.

My personal opinion is that there really isn’t any other option I would do trench fill, unless you dislike your bricklayers.

I was thinking just the same. Never seen a 700mm digger bucket, not unless the bushes are shot and the bucket rattles around a bit.

Nope, don’t over think it, shoot it straight in Tamp a pad stick your laser on it, tamp another pad and laser that one. Level in between you will be finished at 10.30 am.

It’s all 6 of one half a dozen of the other if you put a less amount of concrete in you will need more brickwork to get to ground level if you fill to within 300 of finished ground level you will have more expenses in concrete but less in brick work. I would work out your damp course level, and measure down from that, making sure you have enough room for pipes to exit under finished ground level but above concrete level. Laying bricks in a skinny trench full of water is not fun, concrete in relative terms is a cheap product compared to a days wages.

I did this one by hand freestyle if you fancy doing it yourself I could point you in the right direction for the correct bits, and the better type of router if you haven’t got the time or inclination, I can’t help sorry. @JSHarris

Blue peter style one I made earlier

https://pin.it/rn36mry2bwro5v like this.

Have you considered shade sales, fitted to the outside, they would look good on your place just remove them in the autumn and put them back up in the spring our place in oz had them and the wow factor they added far outwayed the cost.

https://pin.it/nx5myt3s6l3ikz Bracing pic in link. can you get any largish machinery into the back garden i have just had some large telegraph pole sections banged into the ground with a tracked post knocker this would be perfect if you can get it in.

The joist you are cutting, why not remove it from the brick work and move it over you can then trim your opening you need to work out what member is carrying the load from the stairs.