Russell griffiths

We have over 260m of roof catchment area, but when calculated after a heavy downpour, it is not a significant amount of water to discharge directly.

@Dreadnaught are you actually close enough to the river to discharge your roof rainwater directly? our hydrology guy measured our rainwater runoff and calculated that at such a small amount could be discharged straight to a water course, so no suds needed.

Have you had a flood risk Assessment, due to the river ours stated minimum ffl we just worked off that in the grand scheme of things this is house building not rocket science, 20-50mm up or down will not matter much it is a rough guide to determine if something is feasible on the day of the drain laying, two hungover loats will move it up or down and make it work. Also i found out when the survey guys came back to mine that their total station was only actually accurate to about 50mm, dependant on if they had a good signal to the satellite thingy, so height above see level was a bit hit and miss.

Have you had a topo survey? if you have then it can be designed by anybody anywhere in the country as the information should be on the topo as long as you give finished floor height an invert level for connecting main sewer. My drainage design consists of 4 toilets, 1 kitchen outlet, 1 boot room sink outlet, 9 rainwater outlets, treatment plant location and discharge, Full design ready for building regs submission was £750 plus vat.

Your digger should pick a whole bag up put the digger with the blade facing the way you are going to go put a pallet on the ground with one end cocked up on top of the blade skull drag the bag on a short strop towards the pallet drag bag half up pallet use wide ditching bucket to hook under far side of pallet and lift as you raise blade track to destination i can move a 3/4 bag with my 1-1/2 tonne machine so you should easily move a whole bag. But then again us old codgers do know a few tricks.

Why not hire a dumper. £75 a day around here. Can you get your old Landy near it with a trailer on the back.

we Are in Cirencester if you want to feel a few blocks

Looking at those steels can you not use an ICF block or panel system and run both the inner and outer insulation past the columns and fully in case the steel within the centre of the block. any extra steels would be incorporated into the ICF by leaving out a beam pocket very diy able. I will be starting my ICF walls in a months time if you wanted a look. Where abouts are you. Im also using nudura it was not chosen by price, but by picking it up and getting a feel for how it will work for me. I would certainly get a couple of full blocks sent out to you, not silly offcuts proper full blocks so you can have a good play, cut some chunks off them, screw to them and anything else you fancy.

Can you site the static in a way as to have a connecting roof area so the wife can walk to the fridge freezer , washing machine, drying area, without being pissed off it’s raining.

Shipping container.

Could you make a Flexi nozzle some 10mm hose slipped over the silicone tube two person job, one squeezing the handle, one guiding the hose.

I would put it up the vertical gap as well can you squirt the entire contents out on a bit of board and slide it up the gap with your fingers.

Can you cover the glass in masking tape up to the area that will be seen from inside, then ct1 the life out of it, drop the glass back in, any excess that squeezed out won’t go on the glass because of the tape. Then pump in a load from outside again with masking tape on the glass.

Looking at these answers can anybody comment on what they actually did to comply with this. I would like my workshop to be as draft free as possible.

Whooo that’s a bit tasty looking @Garry can you tell me who did your visualisation was it the architect or did they farm it out to another company we have just started ours and I would really like a visualisation to check cladding colour and many other things. I bet you had to have a fairly rigorous flood assessment done.

Did you mean Severn Valley woodworks @bissoejosh as im struggling to find any other.

This is slightly non standard construction really, so you will have to make a few things up as you go along, if you look at some American videos, you need to be looking for the making of a cill pan probably similar to the Tyvek you describe I personally would flash all sides as well can you not cut the cill plate down so you create a step to prevent any water running back onto the floor and then flash the step down.

Well since I started this, how can we progress with a bulk buy would we need to collect or do you think they would courier over i travel to France a couple of times a year, but I’m sure the timing would be no good so would require a separate trip. So im in who else.

I thought you wanted it for on top of block n beam, do you have the correct tape for the membrane ? just use that.

Could you not use a reinforcement bandage, either plasterers scrim or fibreglass mesh like the stuff they use in the new render systems. Why can you not use one of the 110mm bandages and cut a slit in it to fold it to the desired diameter and then overpaint with the liquid.

Two years ago I GRP our kitchen roof, the materials came to around £700 and the area is a fair size bigger than I would think a fairly standard array of panels would take up. Thats sort of why I asked recently how much room does a fairly standard set of panels take up. What meterage does yours take up @JSHarris

Couldn’t find a price on the one you listed the one I’m buying is a 5kg bucket, liquid form. £70. Company called Cordon eps.

If you want to put your treatment plant at 7m away then do that, the discharge pipe and sampling chamber can be placed on the far side by cutting back the pipe you have already buried just cut it back to suit your needs. Its the inlet side that is important you get the right height. Have you established this bit.

Who have you had prices from for your I joists @MikeSharp01 i have just had some prices back for my roof which will be all I joist they are actually cutting them all to the design length i don’t know whether this is more cost effective or not did you have a price to cut them all to your cutting list.

why the trial hole to ascertain what ? if you should concrete it or not ? just dig the hole and order the concrete not concreting it in will only cause you to worry that you should have. £ 300 for concrete is probably the amount you just saved by digging the hole yourself why scrimp at a major point. I thought you had already been monitoring the water level at a different hole before you started. Get it dug lad, get it in, fill with water, order concrete, take pics, have a beer, pat yourself on the back.