Russell griffiths

Would you have a pic please @Simon Brooke

Hi I used to live not far away in Ruislip. Getting straight to the point, is it worth it??? i used to do a lot of work for developers and knocking down a perfectly good house to build another doesn’t work, most on here who have done it either took a ramshackle house and knocked it down or the plot it was on was worth more than the house, yours look neither, to good to knock down and the plot doesn’t warrant spending £250000 plus on top of what you have. With the house prices by you would you not be better giving it a lick of paint and selling and looking for the crap bungalow on the nice plot a little bit further outside the m25. Sorry to be blunt. Russ.

Ooooooh I like that, do you use the other barns, could they fall down????

Just what I was thinking. Cheers another product to go in the crap bin.

Has anybody used the insulated roof sheets, like the ones on big warehouses, I think kingspan make a lot of them. Having a bit of a rethink on our roof after just visiting a neighbour putting up a big barn. Cheers russ.

Have a look at the nudura vids on you tube, lots with real stone on the outside.

Fix them with exterior tile adhesive?????

Isn’t it funny , one mans trash is another mans treasure ive just bought 100 ton of crushed rock.

I intend to fit mat well into my tiled floor and fit tiles inside the mat well with a couple of blobs of silicon and grout, on sign of just pull out and fit the mat. I asked our bco about a covered area above the flat portion and he said he wasn’t fussed it was up to me if I put it in.

I’m looking for a peel n stick type membrane, below ground on my ICF walls, this is not a basement but just the small area from footings to ffl has anybody got any suggestions. Nudura my block maker do one, I’m just looking for price and performance comparisons @Triassic what did you end up using mate.

Shaping the eps will be simple, after playing with mine for a week you can chop it, cut it, screw it glue it, and if you cock it up just stick the cock up bit back in. Why don’t you come over and play with mine for an hour to get a feel for it. Now thats an an offer you don’t get every day.

Oh well backwards Britain strikes again there is a standard measurement in OZ of 140 mm to centre of pipe. Thats how they are all set out, toilet just slips straight on no flexible fittings or swan necks. Oh well we might catch up in the next 100 years. Cheers guys ??

Is there a standard spacing for a soil pipe to exit through the floor in relation to the distance from the finished wall surface, taking into account the pan connector. I havnt picked the toilet for this room yet and want to get the rough pipework through the floor. Does this make sense ? Standard closed couple toilet, fixed back to wall, 90degree pan connector, down to pipe sticking up through floor. Looking for distance to centre of pipe that sticks through the floor.

If you make sure you grip fill the bottom of the sole plate and grip fill the floor and squidg them together to break off any skinning over, you will need to chisel it up with a BFO hammer if you get it wrong.

I have grip filled loads of stud walls down, what are your floor coverings, as the ones I did where all held in place by the tiled floors either side.

They say a picture paints a 1000words thanks to you both @JSHarris @Ed Davies I owe you both a beer. ???

Thanks for all the response guys @JSHarris would there be any chance of a cross section sketch or a. Photo I am wondering how the 10 mm gap was created also @Ed Davies any chance of a sketch or photo thanks guys.

I have some funny gables, as the roof is mono pitch

I was thinking of getting 100 zonts and 50 zuckles, to make up 50 braces. As regards fixing to the floor I had thought of first fixing down a scaffold board using a fixing that only penetrates 40 mm into the slab and then fixing braces to that, just to lesson the amount of fixings going into the slab. As I have decided on block n beam floor I don’t have the problem with ufh any more as it will get installed later.

My first idea was 240mm of a soft roll type insulation installed between the I joists, with 40 mm ridgid wood fibre insulation laid over the top, then a breather membrane and a vapour control layer on the inside taped to the walls. Roof to be held off the wood fibre with a counter batten providing an air gap.

Right running with my other topic, are there many people who have used or considered spray foam insulation @PeterStarck What sort of thickness was sprayed(average) do you have a rough cost per m are you happy with it ? did this provide you with an air tight finish ? god this is getting complicated. Russ.

Why are people buying the fancy membranes if I could just use clear polythene

With an mbc type build up I believe the roof timbers are spread apart with a plywood gusset and then loose fill insulation is pumped in to the roof void creating a no cold bridge construction, is this correct @JSHarris would I joist construction do the same or would the osb web transfer heat to the outside needing additional insulation over or unde the joists to prevent a cold bridge.

I am really trying to avoid pir, I hate it I think it is massively overpriced, Getting back to the airtight layer at the ceiling, in a perfect world I would fit an airtight membrane then a service batten and then the finished ceiling, I think I need to add up the cost of pir versus an external insulation with a airtight membrane on the inside, I know some of these membranes can be costly so it may be that pir taped will end up cheaper.

Well this all looks like it could come together i would be happy to purchase them first, and use them around November time, @willbish comes over to Cirencester to have a look at them in use, I finish up and will comes over to collect them, he then uses them in December ,January and packs them up to send on to @Alexphd1 i love it when a plan comes together doing some rough figures in my head I think we could all save a grand on the hire costs.