Russell griffiths

You can go to court, you can win, but getting funds from someone who knows they might lose is hard as it’s easy to move funds or close companies. a court case could take a year and nobody freezes the assets until the outcome, you just hope there’s something there at the end.

Just remember this, taking someone to court and winning, does not necessarily get you any money.

Can you not fit 300mm lengths of plastic to the chamber, then go from plastic to clay using a time saver coupling, these are rubber and should easily give you the movement you need.

Replace the pir with XPS , make sure you put some form of rodent barrier over the ends and sides.

What do you need from them. if nothing then no, if you need access or use of an excavator for a couple of days then yes, use this to your advantage.

Go and get a length of anthracite coloured upvc facia, use this as a mock up. cut a couple of pieces to cover that wood up try fitting flush to the wood and see how it looks with the render try adding a 25mm batten to that timber then the upvc, see what you think. if any of these ideas are good i would then chuck the upvc away and get the profile you want bent up and powder coated render comes upwards and finishes with a stop bead against the aluminium, get a coloured stop bead, or spray them, unless your having white render of course.

Do you mean the beads that hold the glass in. are you trying to remove the glass. older units the rubber gasket wasn’t part of the bead , but was put in separately after the beads are in place. lubricate the rubber gasket with soapy warm water and try to pull the rubber out, if it pulls out easily that should then loosen the aluminium bead.

Hire one for a day and see if your happy with the fixing, 90mm nails are thin, you don’t get the pull in you get with a screw and you also get a bit of side to side movement with a nail gun nail. I would do some experiments.

There is a specific product for this, it is a plastic tank you wash out into, the water seeps through a cloth screen and leaves the sediment behind, you then add the sediment to the hardcore pile. look it up, I’m not saying buy one, just look the name up and add it to your cemp.

Show us the cupboard. probably a dummy drawer at the bottom, so fix the drawer front in position but remove the drawer box.

Look at the upstairs windows in your pic. they didn’t really get that right did they. I think your trying to micro manage that detail, if you get the windows to suit the cladding they will probably be off with something indoors, tile placement for example. cladding is so variable you can jiggle it to fit, unless you are using a large format sheet where you definitely don’t want a little rip.

I would not build a home that I’m going to be asleep in a room and not have a window in that room that was capable of being opened enough for the occupants to escape from. every single room in our house has either an escape window or a door to the outside.

Most triple glazed quality windows come pre glazed, I wouldn’t buy anything else.

Fit them yourself, it’s money for old rope, the hardest part is actually lifting them up, another strong mate and your done. i don’t know why people think it’s complicated to fit a few screws in some brackets. the air sealing you will make a better job than the fitters anyway.

Not if it has a restrictor fitted. AFAIA.

You can get them cut to the width you want and edge banded to save loads of time on painting. or look at Todd doors I’ve used their ones different widths for thick walls, can’t remember the sizes but I have 125studs with 11mm osb both sides and 15mm plasterboard.

It doesn’t sound excessive. but do get another quote

No, that’s a bodge, don’t do it, run the pipe at the angle so it connects up properly. having the pipe run steeper than 1:40 is not a problem, it will not leave the solids behind, that is a misconception.

how big do you want to go.

You would need to state that you are geared towards planning applications and have a proven track record. i would not particularly use an architect for planning, but lean towards a planning consultant.

Get a stand at the self build shows, there’s a fair bit of competition though.

Being that you are in bare icf, just hack the foam off and move the vents up, it will all be behind your brick slips, you will also be able to get them to line up perfectly with a full brick that way. winner winner chicken dinner.

i have an area that was going to be 150 down, I now like the idea of bringing it up level with the back door, so 4 vents are low, I’m installing these in my paving area.

What difference is it making, they are a bit high, are you thinking the area of level access will cover them, I purposely left ours out in the area of the disabled ramp. yours are probably better high if you are talking about patio area, as you don’t want them underground.

All my planning drawings state FFH at 88.75 which when referenced to the TOPO shows exactly where it should be. you then take a fixed point from the TOPO like a manhole cover, for arguments sake, manhole at 87.75, so FFH 1m above that manhole, give or take a little bit, you generally bang a stake in well out the way and transfer all the crucial measurements to it, so you can then rip the site up and it doesn’t matter if the manhole gets disturbed.