Russell griffiths

how About shipping containers you can drag them around without any risk, kit them out with windows insulation and plumbing and electrics and when you are finished you can sell them for a profit to somebody else.

That’s a lot of work on your own, well done bud. Do I recognise your name from another forum, Arb talk.

You are correct i have found the things that hold up my progress are 1, overthinking 2, procrastination i find im more productive by just jumping in and figuring it out as I go along. I have spent nearly two days sitting on the sofa trying to get a good layout got our laundry/ boot room, sketching looking in magazines looking on websites, got a pounding headache from over thinking. Gone around the house and started using the old cardboard aided design and bingo got a good feel for it straight away.

Yea @Patrick had a bit of a tree drama.

Can you do this. Look at option b.

Have you considered raising the ceiling joists, so instead of vaulted throughout you would have a sloping bit near the walls with a higher section in the middle.

That sounds better

My first thoughts without looking at them is that with only a 70mm profile you won’t get very good insulation values or good glazing options.

Remember you will have lots of internal walls, so your big area you are looking at now will be broken up into smaller bits just remember this when putting a straight edge on it.

Oh so two pipes for an extract, ooh that’s a bummer, means I have to get more ducts in than I thought originally

Just doing some planning before I get a company to do a proper design does every extract point have to have have its own dedicated duct, or can two or more extract points run back to one duct and connect with a sort of Y junction. I have one area of ceiling that i that I would like to limit the amount of ducts in it, but this area then opens out into two separate rooms that would both have extract points in.

I have read a couple of posts on this, haven’t read them all life’s too short. But my thoughts are why does something have to add up money wise, if you think it will improve your home environment why does it have to add up that it equals out what it costs. Do you never ever go to a restaurant and think I would really like the big 24oz T bone steak, but it’s £29 and the 6oz burger is only £12 do you buy the burger because it represents better value or do you want a steak. I dont understand the comments of my MVHR cost £3000 but it saves me x from my heating, who gives a toss, from everybody on here who has it I haven’t seen anybody who regretted it, if it makes for a good living environment who cares what it costs.

@Adam2 the last house I did was timberframe in this one icf I intend adding a service batten then screw osb, then stick plasterboard, no screw holes in plasterboard to fill,just joints to tape, nowhere near ready to do this yet so this is just my first thoughts.

@Jilly tbh you should spend your money on the bits you cannot see, they are the important bits i do believe you have a limited budget, but better to get a good structure and fill it with second hand furniture than a compromised structure that you cannot improve in the future when you realise it’s not come out as good as you wanted. Are you allowed to lift the wall plate up , thus lifting the roof. 2.1 will be a major compromise, I would apply to lift the roof up by 300mm.

Why not ply it and then cover in plasterboard and paint, I will be doing this to 90% of my walls 15mm osb then plasterboard i did my last house like this and it makes an amazing difference solid feeling, easy to fix to, adds protection to plasterboard against puncture and dents. Peter beat me, must learn to type faster.

Thanks all , I think that clarifies what I was thinking.

So new regs cables fitted overhead need to have a fire proof fixing to stop the cables drooping and entangling a firefighter. I get that bit ok. But can someone go into more details or tell me where to look. I need to understand what they are trying to achieve so I can understand how to achieve it. I have a couple of scenarios I hope you can answer. Lets say you have first floor i joists with holes drilled in the webs, cables run through the holes from joist to joist. Is a metal fixing required?? Lets say you have first floor i joists, cables run parallel with the joists. Is metal fixing required?? lets say you have a false ceiling creating a service void. 50x50 timber used to create the false ceiling, cables are run over the top of the timbers, timbers spaced at 600mm. Is a metal fixing required?? all areas I have mentioned have a plasterboard ceiling below them, what I’m trying to get my head around is using a fire proof fixing is cool but screwing it into timber defeats the object if the timber burns, is it basically if the fireman has to pull the ceiling down to get at the fire they don’t want cables entangling them as they go about their job.

You will probably notice it on the internal reveals around that door, as this is a cold spot, you will also notice problems if you have poor guttering as more water pouring down able to bounce up.

I think one type don’t even use mortar, they use an expandable foam from a gun, very easy to use looking at the house near me. It’s near Cirencester @Torchia

Yep it will cause damp. Water bounces up when it hits the ground, it was found that I doesn’t bounce more than 150mm so building regs has been for a long time to have ground level 150mm below dpc. Lots of modern situations, disabled access and other fancy landscaping design have lifted outside heights up to dpc level, this is ok with newer designed stuff as you normally put other measures in place to mitigate the problem. With your place being older bringing the outside level up to dpc is asking for problems.

There is a new house down the road from me built in them, I called in to have a look and was very surprised at the amount of insulation they had to add to the blocks, it was in effect that the blocks added very little to the insulation value. have you looked into the u value you can get with them.

Yep, the design of having outside finished height 150mm below the damp course has worked well for years, build above this height and your asking for agro.

As long as you are happy you have enough slack for them to connect you could do either, I would rather leave it visible above ground as long as your happy it’s not a hazard.

That makes a bit more sense @Dreadnaught so your meter is going down in the public road end, that will allow a fair bit of play for the connection. I had thought you where going to try and cut your pipe accurately enough to go straight onto the main.

Ooh, that sounds dodgy, are you going to dig right down and up to their main. 1, what if you bury your pipe and you haven’t left enough slack to connect ?? 2, I would be concerned about digging that close to their main, what if you damage it you normally bury your pipe and leave a 1m piece sticking up so they can trim it back and connect it. Did you get a price price for them to do that bit down the access road. How owe do you intend cutting your trench in the access road, isn’t it concrete or do I have a poor memory.