Russdl

Good spot, it had been on for 3 days before I worked out it wasn't working. When it became obvious the LH one wasn't working, I left it off. That sounds even simple enough for me to do, thanks. As it happens we had an electrician in the house for a totally unrelated reason whilst I was away last week. The good lady asked him to take a look at the suspected defective Willis heater and he declared it dead, no mention of the thermostat specifically being dead just "it's dead". The electrician as it happens is well versed in Willis heater UFH having worked with the installer of our system in the past.

@joe90 That looks like it may be the thing, they look very similar but I wonder if it's worth the faff? Any idea how I check to see if that really is the bit that is screwed? Well outside of my skill set which is why I got a 'pro' in to do all that stuff in the first place...

Can you give me more clues? How would I do that?

We have aluclad 7016 on the outside, I wish we had gone darker with 9004. Inside its a pale timber. Looking at @PeterStarck pictures, I wish we had gone RAL9004 inside and out.

I really think this is the best way to heat a passive house (kudos to TerryE, I think he was the inventor?). My Willis heater UFH was recently commissioned and within a few days the trades were asking for the heat to be turned down. We have no controls for it so it was turned off. A week later, in freezing conditions it was still pleasantly warm inside. We do have a problem though as the left hand of the two Willis heaters doesn't work, and evidently from my energy usage it never has, so I guess it was never tested. Who would have thought. There is a peak in consumption as they were turned on on the 27th Jan but not enough of a peak to suggest that both heaters were working, probably just the RH Willis heater and the kettle. The following day it's just one Willis heater and the odd bit of kettle action. It's not the reset button on the bottom, so it needs to be replaced. I think I've found the exact model and as @TerryE pointed out, they are so cheap I may as well get a couple of spares. I guess it's going to be easy to replace. How do I go about replacing it without filling the whole system with air again - or is that inevitable? I also need to get some inhibitor in the system, should I do it when I replace the defective Willis heater or should I run the system for a few days to make sure all the air is out before I put the inhibitor in?

@Onoff aint that the truth!

A bit of an update. I did as briefed, filled the holes around the boss with CT1 and used the pipe thread sealing goo from Screwfix. The good news is that if there are any leaks then they will appear on the outside face of my tiles and not behind the tiles. The bad news is that I know that for certain because the pipe thread sealer is bright green, and relatively runny. When I checked back on my handiwork this morning there was a great big green dribble from behind the the shower arm down the bright white grout between the tiles. I don't think I used too much, just followed the instructions of a continuous bead around the thread but the evidence would suggest there was definitely more than required. Fortunately it has almost completely cleaned up with some big old wet wipes.

Not quite what you're asking but John Ward debunks the bathroom pull cord myth, Zone 3 doesn't exist, but I couldn't convince my M&E team that I could have a normal light switch in the bathroom/WC. Apparently there is a 'best practices' book that prevents electricians following the Regs.

@JFDIY thanks for the top tip however I’ve got the nuts and it’s in ?

I will, mainly because I don't know otherwise.

??? I'm using that liquid thread sealer from Screwfix. Seems to be working.

@Onoff that Toolstation bit would work out just fine I reckon. I can live without the hex end (I'm surprised that they don't appear to be easily obtainable) and just use a couple of nuts.

That's a shame. They were very helpful when I had problems with my supplier/installer and sold to me direct. I can’t comment on the product itself as many months down the line it’s still not been commissioned by said (non)supplier/installer and partly because of that we have had to go our separate ways.

Preferably. I think so.

Another question if I may. One of these brass things that goes from the boss to the shower thingy is missing and I’m buggered if I can find it by Googling. Can anyone tell me what is it called so I can narrow down my search?

Have you tried approaching Sunamp directly? I believe you were screwed around a bit last year... They may be sympathetic.

That could explain it ?

@Onoff thanks for that, my searching failed to find that post of yours.

@nod you’ll obviously know best what you want from the interior layout and posting your thoughts here may well hone that. As for internal and external style and appearance it’s got to be Google images/Pinterest/Personal preference/Local influences and vernacular I guess.

@nod are you talking the internal design/layout or the external appearance?

@Russell griffiths thanks for that. I’ve got 16mm of thread exposed and that thread extender doesn’t seem to offer much more so I’m kinda hoping 16mm and that thread sealer will see me right. With the CT1 filling the hole then I’m fairly confident that any failure will be evident on the front of the tiles and not quietly dripping away down the back.

So I saw, I was somewhat taken aback!

@Russell griffiths I got the Screwfix version as I couldn’t find any of the Locktite stuff. Reviews seemed good, fingers crossed and all that.

Cancel request. I managed to get some expanding foam in there without pumping it all down the boss so hopefully I’ll be able to continue a la @Russell griffiths previous instructions once the expanding foam has cured. Or does CT1 eat expanding foam alive and I’ll be back to square one? I’m only left with 16mm of the brass fitting sticking out of the wall. Is that more than enough?

@Russell griffiths I have a challenge for you! The front face of one of the boss’s is 30mm behind the front face of the tiles. So it’s actually behind the plasterboard to which the tiles are attached. If I were to try to fill with CT1 it would just disappear into the void behind the plasterboard. Any top tips for a situation like this?