Russdl

We went with textured wood effect porcelain tiles. We live at the end of a lane which for about 6 months of the year is a muddy lane. So far the porcelain tiles have proved indestructible especially when it comes to mud and stone being walked in. The dog is the worst offender, he refuses to wipe his feet. After a quick wipe over with a steam mop the tiles are like new again. Repeated patterns would drive me nuts which I made the tiler aware of. I think he’s done a brilliant job. Most visitors think the floor is timber so I guess it’s ticking that box, the same tile continues outside onto the patio, they are twice the width and thickness.

One other thing, obvious but I’ll say it anyway. All penetrations through the tiles that are under the bath are surrounded by a little silicon wall so that any leaking water doesn’t get down the hole before it shows itself under the bath edge.

I couldn’t possibly comment.

Good luck, I guess the 3 certainties (death, tax, nurses) should actually be four - water will always find a way in.

At least you’re laughing!!

@Gus Potter It sounds like we’ve got pretty much what you plan on doing. Flexiwaste as described by @ProDave. Our bath sits on tiles and I was equally concerned about leaks. Sure enough one manifested itself after the first filling, evident by water on the tiles around the base of the bath. Despite the weight of the bath (220kg iirc) it was easy enough to lift one end and put blocks of wood underneath then lift the other end to do the same - rinse and repeat until it’s high enough to get to the plumbing. Turns out it wasn’t my plumbing that was at fault but the click clack waste fitted by the supplier that was leaking. I removed and refitted that properly and it’s been fine ever since 👍

I used ‘glass frosting paint’ on the window of our temporary site toilet, did the job while others were doing their job so to speak. It may work for you needs?

I used Jouplast (from Wickes). but they seem to be selling less of the range every time I look. Non level base, pedestals range from as low as possible to probably up to 200-300mm high. Easy to do and very easy to change your mind and re do it all. We used 1200x400 20mm thick porcelain tiles.

As above. We have 5 Aicos fitted. I haven’t seen them since I installed them. They’re there should I look up, but I guess I just haven’t looked up - they just disappear once fitted on the ceiling.

Good old Google, saves me asking too many questions!

Google enlightened me about flitch beams. Would I be right in thinking I would have to attach timber to an RSJ anyway if I used one, to hang the rest of the roof off - or is there another way? If that would be required, then the flitch beam has moved to the top of the pile.

Can you enlighten me? Is that exactly as you describe, sounds good to me if so. My drawing shows slightly off centre so that the joists (rafters) at the narrow end of the garage wouldn't be so deep, but actually its only 1" so a bit of a pointless exercise from me.

I like glulam for the reasons @joe90 mentioned but I think for what I’ll need it would be big and heavy. I’ve just been informed that a GRP ‘I’ beam at 6.5m would be “difficult and expensive” (the standard size is 6m). I guess I’m looking at an RSJ, just don’t want one.

I looked at them, for a previous iteration of my fermenting plan, maybe I need to look again.

I'm trying to steer clear of the steel, difficult access etc, but it may come to it.

Yep, i don't think that's an option (but willing to be educated otherwise if anyone knows better?)

So, if the red joist becomes an RSJ am I on the right track? Or could I use an LVL I joist? Or a pultruded GRP 'I' beam?

The span tables I've seen says it will, but... ...I guess span tables don't consider hanging all the other roof joist of it? Yep. Plan is a flat warm roof. That will definitely happen, I want to understand it all myself though, plus see what this wonderful community can throw up by way of alternatives.

The plan is to build a garage sometime next year. Irregular shape to fit the tapering plot and low height to comply with Permitted Development. I want it about 9m deep. About 5m wide at the back (narrow end) and about 7.5m wide at the front. The first question that I have is how do I construct the flat-ish roof? Can I do it all in C24 as per the image below? Or does the red C24 in the image have to be a steel or something else? TIA.

I’m sorry to hear that, very depressing. We used secondary glazing in our previous house to try and dampen road noise, it worked to a limited extent, sadly for your situation I suspect it will only turn the noise down a little bit but you’ll still be able to hear the little erks. IIRC I bought a kit online (it was a long time ago) not too expensive and easy to fit. Good luck.

I think that was the reason I felt unable to watch it but with the passage of time I can’t really pin down exactly why I couldn’t watch it. I just couldn’t.

@Jac probably about 6 months after we’d largely finished (it’s never finished). Like you, couldn’t bear to watch it during the build.

Bit it’s still worth doing this: Check CCJ Is it not?

What a coincidence! We had a friend dying of cancer (short notice, swift departure) who’s long dead now. We didn’t owe anything though. The individual we were dealing with owes us close to £5000 (CCJ) which is unpaid CCJ’s can be checked on line for £6 and I’d recommend searching that site before employing anyone.

Horse for courses. I get the arse if they’re even vaguely dirty.