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Russdl

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  1. Russdl
    @Garald sorry I can’t offer any opinion on the internal installation of an external heat pump but regarding the price, if they’ve lopped €3000 off the price without too much effort then they were clearly coming in at a mad high price and there may be some more discount available bringing the price down to a less eye watering one.
  2. Russdl
    Could the fire burning too hot have caused the flue joints to fail? Do you have a flue thermometer? I would have thought it would be difficult to get a blazing/roaring fire going with a blocked chimney and plenty of evidence that it was blocked whilst trying to light it (unless the lighting process was ‘accelerated’).
  3. Russdl
    Agree it’s probably a mouse, but look on the bright side, if it is a rat then you won’t have mice because the rats will eat them. As already said, mice can get through tiny holes, I watched one go through a gap after scaling a brick wall and I couldn’t get my little finger in the gap it went through, quite astonishing. (I’d vote for poison. In the past I used humane traps but that gets tedious after a while).
  4. Russdl
    @build_a_bear 1. Sorry, can’t help with alternatives as we’ve got a Brink but there are negatives to the Brink from my point of view. All the good stuff is good but the app is poor as is web access - all seems a bit last decade, but not a game changer, hardly ever need it. 2. No. A silencer before the manifold should suffice. The manifold has baffles that help as well - not 100% effective on a quiet night, maybe 95% but that’s subjective. There will be a tiny bit of ‘white noise’ but you’ll have to try hard to hear it. 3. Don’t pay too much for it. Can you DIY the pipes? A day of fun and save a fortune?
  5. Russdl
    Excellent! Something for me to worry about if I choose block 😂 (I think I will...) I was getting worried that I couldn't think of much to worry about.
  6. Russdl
    Thanks for that - so it was an imaginary worry. 👍
  7. Russdl
    There really are loads out there! I didn't realise there was a specific one if you were going to paint it.
  8. Russdl
    @BenP stick build was always top of my list, mainly because I think I could do it all. The concerns were the fire regs affecting three elevations. The >8m walls without any partition walls adding strength. If I pushed hard enough would they fall over? (I don't know if that is a real or imaginary worry?) So the block option looks like I get a couple of 'goal post' steels made up, medium weight blocks between them (and no piers on the two long walls), EWI on the outside and I'm home and dry. @Adrian Walker yep, just garage/workshop etc. No plans to annex it later.
  9. Russdl
    So, if I find a retired bricky who's up for it I can labour for him whilst he builds me a fantastic block wall which will be external insulated and rendered and probably just painted on the inside. But what blocks should I use? There seems to be quite a choice.
  10. Russdl
    No. That would turn into a running goat... The Geocell, yes. I'm not even vaguely into social media, but it's not a bad idea at all @joe90and there are alternative social networks (the pub springs to mind).
  11. Russdl
    That's a plus for block for sure. Indeed, but I want the garage insulated so if I went block then I'd go EWI and render that adding complexity/costs. On the house its batten/counter batten, render board, silicone render. No issues so far but added complexity and costs, apart from the render I can do all the rest. I will need building regs but I reckon I can choose my method. Blockwork would easily please them but they're au-fait with timber frame as well, they oversaw the house construction. The timber frame house has an elevation 1m from a field so we had several modifications to that elevation to satisfy the fire regs. Yes, steels spanning, timber joists, warm roof. Now that's a good point. I presume then I wouldn't need piers along the the two >8m walls? piers would be getting in the way of the side opening sectional door. Insulation and ease of use. By that you mean no re-bar?
  12. Russdl
    The future garage/workshop so far... I've decided on: Geocell foundation and a reinforced concrete raft. Flat roof supported by UB steels. External render finish to match the house. Next on my list of decisions is the walls. Plan A: Stick build on site (I can probably do the vast majority of that). Plan B: Block work walls (I can probably do about none of that). The garage will be irregular in shape to get the most out of the space available (trapezoidal is a word I've not used in decades that doesn't exactly spring to mind?) dimensions below. It will be within 1m of the boundary on three sides. Questions, questions, but I'll start with: Are there good reasons why I should choose stick build over blockwork or blockwork over stick build?
  13. Russdl
    @Roger440 thanks for that link, interesting reading. My GAB will serve a similar purpose to yours but I only have the one car to put in it plus other stuff. Oh. Really? that’s very useful to know. I’ll be using the same inspector that we used for the house build who was, um, easy to put it mildly. I’ll check with him before I start. Likewise, and to stop tools going rusty etc etc.
  14. Russdl
    Yep, that's the plan, a sideways opening sectional door. I won't have enough room for a conventional roller door what with my restricted overall height and warm roof construction.
  15. Russdl
    I have, I’ll see how my plan evolves but it’s highly likely I’ll install the pipes and pop a Willis heater in there. Any extra solar would be PV, I won’t be adding solar thermal. I’ll also explore @saveasteading’s suggestions
  16. Russdl
    Sounds reasonable. It looks like a German development and bits and pieces on line show it being used for all manner of construction. I'm quietly confident this is going to be spot on for a garage foundation (or any other foundation for that matter) but I've not committed yet so happy to be proved wrong. Will do 👍
  17. Russdl
    @saveasteading they put houses, commercial buildings etc on this stuff. It seems a garage would not present an issue. I may not need the insulation but I do want it so that, as a workshop, it's a reasonable environment year round.
  18. Russdl
    @BenP thanks for that. I was initially thinking of 300mm which it transpires would give me a U value of 0.19W/m2K so that looks alright (250mm would give a U value of 0.21W/m2K). Heating hasn't been decided yet.
  19. Russdl
    What floor U value should I be aiming for for a detached garage/workshop? I can't find any guidance unless it's for a garage conversion, can someone point me to any guidance?
  20. Russdl
    Spooky! That was my next question! (trawling through the Mikewye website now). My fermenting plan is to use the Geocell as per the image above, then build the garage/workshop in block off the raft, then use EWI to insulate the whole - questions seeking guidance regarding all that will be on their way in a separate post. (I've already been persuaded to go for UB steels for the roof)
  21. Russdl
    Thanks for that @Adrian Walker most useful (and I see the DPM does maker an appearance, no worries)
  22. Russdl
    @George thanks for the offer but I’m not in the market yet. Any insight you can share from using it?
  23. Russdl
    Never heard of it (I thought TLA stood for 'Three Letter Abreviation") but after a quick look, isn't TLA just insulation whereas the Geocell gravel is the foundation, and insulation.
  24. Russdl
    @Adrian Walker I'm going to give Mikewye a call in the morning and see what's what. (I'll PM re Saturday 👍) @ADLIan Thanks for the info and will read the certificate numerous times until I finally understand it. Use of a DPM won't be a biggie but everything I've seen so far say's it doesn't need one as it's non wicking and water drains through it, I guess that's why it should be wrapped in geo textile so that it doesn't clog up? I'm only interested in the Geocell gravel at this stage so won't be dealing with that stuff.
  25. Russdl
    Exactly! Exactly (again) plus, at this stage, I don't know what the delivery costs are likely to be. I'll try and find out tomorrow. So far I've seen that 300mm is equivalent to 150mm PIR as far as the insulation goes and I think that 300mm would be a suitable depth for a garage foundation, but not confirmed yet.
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