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Russdl

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Everything posted by Russdl

  1. Russdl
    Thanks @joe90 ?? (bloody well hope I understand it!)
  2. Russdl
    Not at all ‘obvious’ to me. At the risk of making myself look thick(er) can you explain how 3kW becomes 1.5kW? (I really should have paid more attention at school)
  3. Russdl
    +1 to the above. 1, 2, 3, etc. Also, if you happen to have a defunct smart phone laying around (and who doesn’t?) take a photo of each invoice after you’ve numbered it, saves a lot of scanning.
  4. Russdl
    Sounds like you’re a ‘mod’ from that post. Are you a mod?
  5. Russdl
    Semi rigid if you’re doing it yourself, its easy - depending on the house build of course.
  6. Russdl
    Yep. Very good point. Ours of course is the direct electrical and it is as simple as a simple thing.
  7. Russdl
    As soon as I read about them on @Jeremy Harris's blog I was sold on the idea and, even though there have been plenty of negative comments on here, it seemed that Sunamp were listening and trying to adapt. From my perspective, that is what they did. I believe the old ones were considered better purely because they took a charge after the slightest of discharges, the next generation didn't and as there was no indication of the charge state that caused consternation for some. When we got ours I thought the charging issue would still be there, but I'd missed the fact that there had been an update and, as I said, it recharges after the slightest of discharges (if I allow it). I would say that plays absolutely no part in it. Attach incoming cold feed and outgoing hot feed (with a couple of small expansion vessels). Connect the mains, turn it on. The end. There are no pumps or any other moving parts, there's nothing to 'tweak' We've got about 11 months left on our Octopus 'Go' tariff, so whilst that 5p/kW window is open for 4 hours in the morning, we're sitting pretty. (with the soon to hit price rises that'll mean we'll be heating our DHW cheaper than if we were using gas and 5p/kW would be the equivalent of a COP of 4 or 5 to 1! I'll enjoy it while it lasts but I don't expect to be getting a 5p rate this time next year so we'll have to see what's available. ?
  8. Russdl
    If there is no sun our Sunamp charges overnight on the Octopus ‘Go’ tariff which is 5p/kW. We do not have an ASHP or boiler, just the Sunamp. The Sunamp provides DHW (not heating) for a household of 4 taking 4-6 showers a day, the bath is rarely used. It has always charged up in the 4hr cheap tariff window, normally taking around 3hrs. It’ll charge from PV if the sun is out and it will start charging after minimal discharge. We have never run out of hot water. It cost us £1500 and despite our one little hiccough with it I think it’s an absolute bargain and brilliant.
  9. Russdl
    Well guess what @Radian . 1 green, 4 yellow LED’s. The pump has automatically gone to ‘high performance’ mode now that it has somewhere to push the water to.
  10. Russdl
    This one.
  11. Russdl
    @ProDave Ah! I see that post hasn't been deleted. Yet.
  12. Russdl
    ?? Indeed, as we now have a functioning heating system it undoubtedly will. ??? (Sorry, I just can't stop laughing ?)
  13. Russdl
    @dpmiller thanks again for posting the link to that Iver thread. @andy top, top tip. My quarter turn isolation valve was closed. Its now open and the flow rates are epic! In the words of the plumber that installed ours... "...Not checking pump / gate valves are open is 1st year apprentice error. I’ve not had one yet which has caused any issues." Feel free to put ours down as No1 if you wish. ?
  14. Russdl
    ???
  15. Russdl
    @dpmiller thanks for that link, I didn't't see that post when I was searching. I'll check... @ProDave The problem is, I can't achieve any flow rate of any significance.
  16. Russdl
    i don’t have those design flows or any idea how to calculate them. Is there a rule of thumb? A short distance above the blue Salus pump are the twin Willis heaters. The blue pump is the return from the manifolds into the bottom of the Willis heaters. The black Grundfos pump is between the supply and return manifolds of the UFH as you can probably see from the picture. No, and I’ve put the Salus pump back into ‘Auto’ as the ‘HD2’ setting made not a jot of difference. Any idea why it’s doesn’t seem to be handling it in my setup? My two shorter runs which by my (probably incorrect) calculation require 0.75l/min are set to about that. The other 9 loops which require 1.75l/min and more are fully open and barely registering 0.5l/min.
  17. Russdl
    With all 11 loops open my flow rates are way below 1 litres/min and I'm trying to get 2.25 to 2.5 litres/min on 5 of the loops. Is it that our pump isn't up to the job or has the pump not been set up correctly? Or is there something else going on?
  18. Russdl
    @Radian I’m sat here looking at it whilst it’s running and the third yellow LED is occasionally lighting up so I guess it increases the performance automatically (I certainly can’t find any way of changing it manually). I’m sure it’ll do 100m with ease but something is not quite right somewhere in my 823m.
  19. Russdl
    The blue Salus pump was set to ‘Auto’ but its now set to ‘HD2’ which is the highest constant pressure curve.
  20. Russdl
    The black Grundfos pump is set to ‘Constant Pressure 3’ which is the highest it can be set to. However the displayed 1 green and 2 yellow LED’s in the picture show that it is on ‘medium low performance’. I have no idea how to get it to 1 green and 4 yellow LED’s (high performance) which may be all I need to do?
  21. Russdl
    @Radian thanks for confirming that. Ive got 11 loops. The longest being 98m which requires 2.5l/min flow, the shortest 28m so 0.75i/min. With all the loops open fully I get barely a reading on any of the flow gauges. If I close them all except 1 loop I can get up to 2.5l/min on the only open loop but the rate quickly reduces if I open up another loop. I think the pumps are set up correctly but what is the correct sequence for setting up the flow rates? If it's just 'turn it on and adjust the flow rates' then I'm stuffed. If there's more to it than that what is the correct sequence?
  22. Russdl
    I'm assuming the same, but I thought I'd better start with the basics and check what flow rates i should be aiming for in the first place.
  23. Russdl
    Our Willis heater based UFH doesn't seem to be working as advertised. The problem as far as I can see it is that the flow rates through the various UFH loops are nowhere near high enough and I can't get them any higher. We have a total of 11 loops and as I understand it the flow rate through the various UFH pipe loops should be 0.5 litre/min per 20m pipe, so for example one of our pipe runs is 90m long so it should have a flow rate of 2.25 litres/min. First question, is the above correct?
  24. Russdl
    @JohnMo I know with certainty which duct does what so there’s no issue there. I wouldn’t mind one but I don’t think it will help with this specific situation. No, all water pipes are through internal walls/floors and any condensation appears on the window panes. Sadly we didn’t despite all the promises. I’ve been wondering about a hidden leak but if that were the case I would have thought it would have shown by now.
  25. Russdl
    @PeterW I don’t agree that it’s a complete red herring. As the link says “...up to 75% moisture recovery...” I completely agree that it needs to be properly commissioned to be able to investigate further. I hope it doesn’t need industrial drying, mainly because of the pie.
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