Russdl

Another ‘good news’ Quooker story. We have a Cube (chilled filtered water) that has been on site for over 3 years but only really used in anger for about 18 months. It started playing up so we booked a service. The engineer arrived and proclaimed it dead/dying and called his supervisor to discuss a replacement despite it being way outside of the 2 year warranty. Within minutes it was agreed that they would replace the Cube free of charge. I think it helped that because we are in a hard water area the Cube is supplied with conditioned water (Combimate) and filters were replaced as required but a big ‘recommend’ vote for Quooker. Also, if anyone else has the Cube that is a small aluminium skinned er, cube, they apparently have many problems with these. The replacement will be a completely different design so if you have the aluminium skimmed Cube watch it like a hawk and get in touch with Quooker the moment it seems to be playing up and hopefully you’ll get the same good service.

@rich1899 I think that’s incorrect. Here’s the guff from the Planning Portal.

That would probably work but was never on my radar so has not been considered. The plan is now block built, with rendered EWI outside.

No. I plan on doing it under Permitted Development. Have I missed something vital? From all I’ve read I don’t see that I need planning for the proposed garage.

I shall look into that. Thanks.

@jayc89 that will all depend on how high above the window the gutter is. In our situation the window in the main bedroom is on the side wall, gable end and no gutter. When it’s chucking it down the big drips hitting the metal cill is like a drum. When it happens I generally move out to the spare room where the gutter is just above the window head and the problem is almost non existent.

I’m sure they don’t help but the condensation forms on all windows, some without houseplants, some without curtains.

Here’s a picture of the slider in the kitchen/dining room - south facing if that makes any difference, the other photo is an east facing window.

@Stones this morning and other cold mornings it’s pretty much every window. The worst was the en-suite which can be put down to me for having a shower in the evening and not putting the MVHR on boost. The photo is of the kitchen/dining window. Biggest room in the house and no cooking activity since mid afternoon yesterday.

An update some 12+ months on: Here’s a picture of ice formation on the outside of our windows, I think it looks quite striking. What is not so nice is the condensation along the bottom on the inside. The house has had another year to dry out (it wasn’t ‘wet’ anyway despite the assertions of some). The internal temperature is 19.5o and the external temperature is -4.5o I’m sure it must have something to do with our enthalpy heat exchanger but as it only happens when it’s well into the minus figures outside we’ll live with it.

We’re going to use PD for similar. It looks to me like you’ve covered every base, I can’t think of anything you’ve overlooked. I am interested in your comment: That’s not a requirement is it? I sincerely hope not for my sake!

We’ve got a Miele. No complaints. Fan is noisy on boost but does what it was designed to do effectively. On one occasion it identified two small pans as one large one and automatically turned both cooking zones on instead of just the one zone I wanted. I found out the painful way that the empty pan on the rear zone was getting very very hot. Very easy to clean, no protrusions. All the grease filter bits go in the dishwasher, charcoal filter gets recharged in the oven. Whatever you go for (if you want to keep it looking good) get a hob protector from Lakeland - ours still looks mint.

Hmmm. That’s not insignificant is it! Hinges it is 👍

Can’t find the ones we’ve used without digging into our archives but here’s an example Scroll down and you’ll see some mini ‘wardrobe’ doors in an eve space that may fit your bill?

@Adsibob I guess I’m obliged to now 🤣 Standby…

Soz, but I have to disagree with that as well.

Have to disagree there. You can get custom ‘wardrobe’ doors, obviously very small ‘wardrobe’ doors. DIY’ing those is a walk in the park. There are several companies out there that will make the doors to the exact size you want (height, width) with the external finish you want, and supply the tracks you need and a couple of hours later you’ll have a flash looking concealed storage space.

That is wide. We have two largeish sliders, 900mm openings, we used 1000mm fire door blanks which are very good at blocking sound. (One thing to consider with your sliding doors which we didn’t until the deed was done. Redecorating them could be nigh on impossible. We had the blanks sprayed, beautiful finish but once the doors in it’s in forever. Some sliding kits allow you to remove the door - ours doesn’t. Not ever).

@bob the builder 2 that build up is very similar to ours apart from the kitchen where the ceiling is fermacell (that stuff is a bitch for a non skilled DIY’er). The remainder of the ceilings are acoustic PB. No normal sounds make it through the ceilings, unloading the dishwasher, listening to music, watching TV etc. If the doors are closed I can have music on in the kitchen at a good volume and it can’t be heard in the bedroom above.

@ToughButterCup we’ve got valves that are relatively flush, not sure if they’re less than 10mm though. When I get home on Tuesday I’ll measure it and see, if you haven’t come up with a solution by then. *** @ToughButterCup nope, sorry. Well over 10mm depth to our ceiling valves. ***

If you choose that route cut out a much bigger section of PB so you can work unhindered. When you have the cables where you want, refit the previously cut out section of PB and fill the joins. It will be an invisible job after a bit of decoration.

Tell the ‘committee’ that she doesn’t know what she’s on about. it will look great 😃

If you don’t want to cut out a bit of PB which would still work how about making a painted plinth (MDF) for the light to stand on? Bigger than the light base and hollow so you can dig holes all over the ceiling to fix the wiring and then the painted plinth will hide the carnage and the light fitting fits over the plinth.

I would ask for the instructions up front so you can have a good old gander and get everything prepared. I’ll see if I can find what I had. ~~~~ (sorry, can’t find anything)

As far as I’m aware expanding foam is a big no-no above a sliding door unit as it can expand sufficiently to distort the frame and consequently prevent the sliding doors from doing just that. I’m pretty sure that’s something I read in the Internorm installation instructions as well. I presume you have the installation instructions?