Russdl
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Posts
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Everything posted by Russdl
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You can put a wireless (and battery-less) Quinetic light switch in the room.
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@Rog1 you’ll be just down the road from us in sunny (one day, hopefully) Wiltshire. Good luck with your project.
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Hello @Gaf whoever told you that this was the place to come for help and advice was spot on. Good luck with your project and ask away, tons of expert advice is waiting in the wings.
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There’s certainly no pumps in the UniQ, I shall see if I can find evidence of a ‘Y’ strainer in the documentation or by lifting the lid. (Message received loud and clear about removing any side panels whilst there is warmth in the unit). Likewise. If my UniQ were to stop doing it’s thing I’d go for a Sunamp replacement as a first port of call.
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@TerryE mines a UniQ. I don’t recall seeing a ‘Y’ filter in there but the last time I looked I wasn’t looking for one.
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Ah, thanks @TerryE, I didn’t think there was one inside my Sunamp. I’m guessing there should be one on my incoming main though, I’d better go looking for it as my Sunamp has been issue free since the thermistor string was replaced and I’d like to keep it that way.
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@Cooeyswell that 'Y' strainer you cleaned. Was that within the Sunamp unit?
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Whenever I’ve checked, our MVHR is supplying more than it extracts - not 20% though - so the house is always mildly over pressure which I presume is the way it should be* so don’t balance the fans too much. (*standing by to be corrected)
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which trades, when and in what order
Russdl replied to Post and beam's topic in General Construction Issues
Are you sure they know the ‘form’ when it comes to the airtight detail? If you’re doing the taping yourself make a point of getting in the way of the first fix guys until you are sure they understand exactly what you require from them regarding airtight detail and the need to rectify any errors before they are hidden from view. -
@TerryE I hope I never need it but many thanks for that insight. 👍
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I saw a great T-shirt yesterday, it read: There is no Plan-et B Which puts a spotlight on the problem humanity may be facing but I wouldn’t be at all surprised if that very T-shirt was part of the problem itself. I didn’t wrestle it off the wearer to check but I suspect that T-shirt has traveled thousands of miles, along with tens of thousands of clones of itself, for no planetary benefit whatsoever. I wasn’t wearing that T-shirt but I’m sure I have plenty of stuff that has travelled many thousands of miles for my benefit/convenience that I could have lived without. Life would have been a bit more difficult but I suspect I could have got by. Sent from my phone that I’m pretty sure was made in China.
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Take care that if the upstanding is too small (not very high) there may not be enough room to plug in a moulded three pin plug.
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I decided to tell the the sparky my unorthodox plan. Delighted to say that he has no problem with it. Also delighted that he/his company came up with a price that seemed very reasonable considering previous quotes I’d received.
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We live next to a field. When they are spraying we turn it off, also when they are ploughing, just for the dust. All around us are houses with wood burners/open fires and not far away is a big pig farm that, on occasions stinks to high heaven. We’ve never turned it off for these events and never noticed anything indoors. You’ll be fine.
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Steel spec to suspend motorcycle
Russdl replied to Capable Noob's topic in RSJs, Lintels & Steelwork
More importantly, what bike is it? I can probably look after it for you, save you the hassle 😀 -
As @Gus Potter mentioned we’ve cut many many many meters of firings to go on top of C section steel joist, diminishing in size front to back so that the roof deck for our new garage has the required fall. I shopped around and no one was really interested in doing it for me and ultimately I’m pleased about that, quality control when you’re doing it yourself is so much easier. It took time, but that was mine to give. With the drawings from a certain SE and good old SketchUp I knew exactly how much scuff (or taper) I needed on each firing so that the boards laid flat on the firings instead of just sitting on the high point of each firing. For us it’s was 0.7mm - we settled for 1mm as it was easier to measure! So, for example, say one of our firings needed to be 45mm thick on the uphill side, it needed to be 43mm thick on the downhill side. I measured the 44mm and 43mm on either side of the timber, drew a line and then lined up the skillsaw with the pencil line, did a few test cuts close to the line on the waste side of the timber to confirm the angle of the saw and then set the guide and cut away. The set angle remains the same for all firings. Our joists are equally spaced and each firing was 7mm bigger than the previous so I just moved the skillsaw guide by 7mm for the next firing strip. It worked really well, each sheet of OSB sits squarely on all the firing strips it touches and has the required fall. Hope that helps.
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@Adrian Walker our flow rates are generally low, circa 100m3/hr unless our CO2 monitor tells us to speed things up or we’re drying clothes in the utility room so I don’t think it’s going to be moving around - but who knows. I may not tell him, I may just present him with some 6mm without explanation of the route the cable has taken. That may be a bit of a pig to drag round the numerous bends the duct takes. I expect the 6mm cable may be problematic enough. I think I’m leaning toward the cable inside the MVHR duct. It’ll be dead easy to do. Famous last words.
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I have an idea. Is this crackpot? The cable needs to go from the loft, right where the MVHR is, to the utility room. Several MVHR ducts take that route already. How about I run my required cable inside an MVHR duct. I would obviously need to airtight seal where the cable enters and exits the duct. Madness? Has anyone done similar before? What are the pitfalls?
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@ProDave I like that plan, thanks. I think the “hive mind”agrees it won’t be an issue (?) because I don’t really want to burn the house down. I shall propose that to the installer, or maybe magic to bits of 6mm either end (I know he won’t fall for it but I’ll see how I get on 👍)
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Sadly not, not enough room. The only option identified so far is outside the back door which is pretty close to everything and there is a duct in place. But I don’t want it outside, I want it in the loft. It’s a tough life isn’t it 🤣 There are of course numerous solutions but the AIO appealed the most. C’est la vie, I’ll work on it.
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The installer/sparky got the following response from Givenergy: ”Unfortunately, GE will only give approval for a singular 6mm cable to the AiO Battery.” I suspect that means no warranty etc if it’s not installed as approved, I also suspect the sparky won’t install it unless it’s iaw the manufacturers now very specific guidance which is fair enough I suppose. I’ll run the points raised in this thread past him but it looks like it’s time to reassess. Thanks for all the input (despite me only understanding half of it!)
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As an indication of how far I am from understanding the finer points of this, I don’t know if: “…= 9.7kW!” is a good thing or a bad thing - but it’s clearly a thing.
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Thanks everyone for the feedback, much of which was over my head. I don’t plan on doing anything myself but will use the provided information to hopefully prod the sparky in the direction I wish to travel but ultimately I guess he’ll decide if he’s happy with it or not.
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Thank **** for that 🤣
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Trouble is I don’t have a clue how to do that. Any pointers?
