Cpd

Don’t think you want 450kg of window sitting on a couple of screws....... IMHO but I get what your saying ?

I have used a lot of different hand saws and last year I purchased a selection of saws from Rutlands and I have to say they are by far the longest lasting , best quality saw I have used to date. One of the biggest pluses is they are coated in a paint that prevents rusting and helps them to run super smooth. Living in a coastal environment rust is a constant problem with sharp hand tools and it’s a joy to have found a saw where I don’t have to constantly maintain it to prolong its life. So for all those self build DIY fans these would be my recommendation ! I have absolutely no connection to the company I just want to share my good experience and what I feel is a good value piece of kit.

Not sure what your getting at, but “off set” joints ? Anyone .......

That are lovely and it’s a joy to use in the garden or when your out foraging, just not for pruning trees and shrubs. I am sure you will make great use of your new collection and when you loose one it’s not the end of the world as they are very reasonably priced.

DO NOT remove the locking ring if you want to keep your fingers ! I have been using these knives for years and the only time I have cut myself is when the locking ring is not engaged. They are just not designed to work without it. IMHO

Great job, I have ride on mower envy........

I have there stainless ones and they are great and still hold a good edge, I don’t like the carbon ones as when your cutting apples they leave a nasty taste.

Nice things to own but I have always found a good set of secateurs to be far better, I used my opinel pruning knife for mushroom harvesting until I left it on a hillside somewhere.......

I would always drill holes into each piece of stone and glue in stainless steel threaded rod to give it the desired strength as well as glueing the surfaces. then use a week lime, cement, sand mortar with the correct colouring oxide to match the existing stonework to point the gap an blend in.

Stihl are a good brand, you pay a bit more but get what you pay for.

Yes it’s good to keep the blades sharp, it will cut with blunt blades but will do more damage to the plants and put the machine under unnecessary stress

All sorted thanks a lot @Carrerahill got the ceramic glass and fitted it. Just need to replace the chimney pot and haunching next before firing it up again.

You would be amazed at how much water a “little trickle” actually ads up to. I have a spring at the top of my property that produces a minimum of 8500 litres a day and the overflow goes into my pond / moat. A friend the other day pointed out that I could also excavate a new pond below the spring as an added feature and I love the idea. So I don’t think it’s a crazy idea but you would need to look at lining the storage area if you wanted to minimise losses. My biggest loss is from the huge area of reed-bed that just sucks up the water....... but it looks great and is a big part of my wildlife garden plan.

I used traditional slate and if laid correctly there is no reason for kick up. I only left a 20mm gap between the flashing and the slates but have no trees, and due to its coastal exposure there is no moss growth. If I lived in a less exposed location I would have made the gap bigger.

Been a great day on the west coast, Oban area. Nice sea breeze this afternoon/ evening. Was a bit muggy when I was cutting the grass at lunch but cooling down now. Temp in my bedroom just now 8.15pm but windows now open and cooling fast.

Yup I have plenty round my property and they occasionally wander into sheds but even then they don’t hang around, mice.....; well that’s something else!

Looking really great, I am just about to pre order 200+ Eucalyptus gunnii and 100 lodgepole pine to fill the last two of three big gaps in the garden, they will just be bare root or cell grown at about 4-600mm big so take a bit longer to establish but at 40 pence each it’s worth the wait.

i was asked me by @Visti by Pm for a bit more detail on my roof installation and a step by step account of the process of Installing velux windows in a wriggly tin roof...... these things are always hard to remember after the event...... but I will try. 1. The positioning of the windows has to be decided at design stage as the roof design will need to take into consideration the velux openings. 2. Confirming where the edge of the tin is to start in relation to the edge of the roof is critical so that you have a datum point to start from. A potential problem With the roof design could be that the timbers that “box out” the opening could later infringe on the interior opening size of the window, you need to also think about cold bridges with this boxing out section as again a can see where you could end up with inadequate insulation on the internal sides of the boxing out section if it was put to close to the velux frame. 3. Carful pre design of where your tin fixings are going to go is essential if you want it to look right........ I started at 120mm up from the base of the tin and then every 1200mm with the last fixings hidden beneath the ridge flashing. I’ve seen a lot of roofs where this has not been though about and you end up with some strange and pretty ugly fixings that can really make a good roof look bad...... I also used string lines across the roof to mark my fixing points with a permanent marker. 4, there is some wiggle room when cut the holes out in the roof and you should take advantage of this make sure you cut the holes out with the extra allowable space around the perimeter ) as it’s the only place you have to make adjustments to the velux / flashings position if required when matching the tin up to the flashing. 5. If installing multiple windows in a row, I did 4..... you need to remember to always go by your datum point not the last window....... otherwise the error will just follow you and the edge of the tin won’t fall into the internal gutter ! It’s really essential that you get this right as it would look like a bag of shite if the edge Of the tin doesn’t line up within 5-10mm of where you want them to fall in the velux gutters. 6. Avoid using cut edges anywhere that is exposed ! being on a tight budget I did use one cut edge that is at the base of the roof and I expect it will be the fit bit to start to fail once the salt water gets into it....... 7. When cutting tin...... I used a jigsaw with the tin clamped between wood, be carful not to damage the tin with this wood, it may be wise to make up some slightly padded wood clamps for this work. After cutting there are loads of really nasty sharp filings and you need to get these off without damaging the tin as they will stick into the plastic coating on the tin and then start to rust ! Use the longest metal cutting bit you can and practice on a bit of offcut first as there is a real knack to cutting tin with a jigsaw.. . 8. I put up a barge board at the base of the roof at the exact point where the tin was to end, this meant that when I was putting up the tin I could lay a bunch of it on the roof and CHECK to see if it was going to line up with the flashings ! Remember that if you put the barge board up at 90 degrees you will need to take into account that the tin has a 20mm profile and laid to the pitch of the roof that is 45 degrees and the top of the wriggle on the tin will hit the barge board and this is not the actual edge..... anyway you will work it out....... the barge board NEEDS to be solid as it’s going to have some good pressure on it when you get a bunch of tin laid out so go overboard when designing it.... just a piece of sarking tased In will not do...... 9. The tin is very easy to handle but be carful of the sharp corners as they just live to rip your lovely new membrane! 10. I need to stop as I am the worlds slowest one finger typist i am sure there is more and I am sure others will chip in with the bits I have missed or miss represented !

Yup I’ve got a similar one but from Makita, it’s fantastic with very little snipe, it’s amazing after you own one you cannot work out how you managed before !

I got one of these in 2015 and it’s USED EVERY DAY for about 4-6 cups a day it’s never stopped working and still produces fantastic coffee. I don’t use the milk thingy ! As I like a strong black coffee with a good crema. It’s just started to leek but this is just the water seal that I intend to replace. It cost me £230 in 2015 but now cost £350. If I was going to buy another one I would get the same one or something very similar. These are the beans that are fantastic if you love black coffee !

Another happy LG customer

Strange as it worked very well on a slate roof of a friend . I can’t see how it can be bad in all cases as I have seen it done and it worked with no detrimental effect to the roof..... in fact the roof stopped leaking and looked great as well !

If it was me...... ( I have extensive rope work experience and working on buildings but am not a professional ) I would be putting up roof ladders and devise a way to get my power washer up there with the longest hose I have and work methodically from the top down blasting away all moss and built up crud. ( I would hopefully remember to block of the gutter down pipes or at least make sure anything that went down was not going to bog up drainage ) Safety ropes would be in play at all times for both equipment and people. As others have said this sort of work will be carried out by professionals and it may be worth getting a quote before looking at other more personality dangerous options ! The ability to do it yourself has the advantages that you can go OCD on it and also carefully investigate the whole roof for damaged or misaligned tiles. I have a completely knackered 120 year old slate roof that needs attention every summer ready for the winter so spend quite a bit of time scurrying about up there.......

If you don’t have experience working at heights then I would not recommend you you go buying equipment that in all reality is only as good as the experience of the person using it. It can be very dangerous ”thinking you are safe” just because you have a nice new rope, harness and some shiny clips.

Just to put this one to bed, I got my dad the Stihl hand shears and he has been using them all summer, he is very happy with them and is amazed at how long the battery lasts. For someone who struggles with mobility and who can’t wield a two handed hedge trimmer and who refuses to pay some local lad to cut the hedge for them.......these work !