Cpd

My roof is treated sarking board 150x22mm onto 400mm roof joists with membrane on top of the sarking, it’s vented below the sarking with a 50mm gap between sarking and inserted and fully sealed / taped calotex the gap is vented at the soffit with vents at each bay and up to a fully vented ridge.... so I decided to not use battens and fixed directly to the sarking and through the roof membrane, I observed this for about 3 years before I got round to closing it all in from the inside and everything was bone dry with a really good draught up each of the Joist bays, It’s probably NOT the correct way but in my very windy location (a few hundred yards from the sea and prevailing ocean breeze) its worked really well, any condensation that may form will dry out pretty quickly. The lack of space under the tin will also provide very little space for interested wildlife looking for a new home. Was I doing it again and knowing what I know now I would probable batten the roof out just as good practice and to increase ventilation even more. However I don’t loose and sleep over what I have done.

I purchased a variety pack and have been very impressed, if your after a go to saw then this standard pack is very good value for you hands on house builders ! the great thing about these saws apart from being very good quality is the fact that the coating is very good and prevents the saw from rusting as quickly as a bare metal saw does and allows for very smooth sawing. Not sure about delivery as I usually order a bunch of stuff on one go..... £35 for 5 saws = £7 each. https://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+pack-of-5-x-ultra-sharp-handsaws-22-x-12tpi+dk4006pack5

Moved a huge amount of stone in my life, not bricks admittedly but have always used either a sack barrow or wheel barrow. On one job I got my dad to carve a wooden yoke as I needed to move a Huge amount of small rubble up from a river bed to a track I was building. Put a full bucket on each side and it was so very much easier. Also used a lot of skylines with hoists and block and tackle set ups. There are a lot of ways to move heavy objects but those lifters would not be my first point of call but as I said very little experience in bricks. . Photo just an internet grab.

So far I have only done the small walls (1m high) upstairs, it’s 1.5 story house. These were framed out with calotex within the frame and more over the top. There is a ventilation gap behind the insulation that links into the overall wall ventilation. I am procrastinating over the upstairs gables and all the walls downstairs...... the project has ground to a standstill at the moment due to family issues so I can procrastinate a good bit more ! The walls are very uneven and it would be a massive job to level and smooth them out so framing and insulation would be my first choice, however I would need to add in some additional ventilation in some areas to be sure they would always dry out should condensation be an issue.

in a very similar situation, have a cabin, two houses and a glorified shed and only two supplies, however someone not so far away looked into three phase and got an estimate of over £100k...... not sure of the circumstances but this would be a game stopper for me. I am hoping to find a friendly local electric person to tell me what the transformer is capable of on the pole outside my house.....

This is probably the best way as it uses all the layers and they all work together, I made various mistakes along the way...... I repointed with a cement, lime and sand mix but due to the really fissured / cracked stone I have and continue to paint the outside with white masonry paint as I live in an extremely wet environment in the hope of preventing rain ingress. The double wall and rubble fill is fully vented with vents low down and at wall head. Also living in a very windy location means I have plenty of ventilation. All the walls are bone dry. On another building I have a lime pointed solid gable wall and it is permanently saturated, there is just to much wet weather and the shite stone is so full of cracks that every time it rains the wall just fills up with water again. I will clad the whole gable to prevent water ingress......

So I have an old stone cottage with 700mm stone walls and 1000mm gables. I dug up the floor down to just above the footing base , dug in various land drainage systems to allow any water to escape should it get in there, filled the area with the stuff railways are build on (200mm) (golf ball sized stones.) compacted as I went but still allowing full drainage over the whole area. Capped it of with cement, but left a 50mm gap around the outside. put two layers of DPM down, the first was semi sacrificial but in reality it will be fine. Laid 100mm of reinforced concrete (BIG MISTAKE) as I should have put insulation down...... again I left a 50mm gap round the edge and filled with pea gravel. Insulation will be 90mm PIR, I am hoping to put WUNDA - Wundatherm Premium+ Board – Underfloor Heating boards down and then final floor coverings. The DPM will go up the wall and join up to whatever I have there. I will frame out the whole house and there will be a vented void between the stone wall and the framework. Insulation between and over stud-work, battens and plaster board. The building is bone dry with absolutely no sign of water coming up or into the walls even though there is no damp proof course. The 50mm drainage gap filled with pea gravel around the walls was a precaution as the exterior ground level is higher than my final floor height. However because it’s a 700mm double stone wall with a rubble middle it was not an issue as any water that does get in goes down the middle of the wall and then can exit through the huge drainage area. I regret not going deeper and if I knew then what I know now........ but hay ho. I don’t think 90mm of PUR is good but it will one day be a holiday rental and the losses in heat downwards will be compensated for by it making money. (limited head room means a MAX of 90mm PIR plus the WUNDA board) I am hoping that UFH run from the ASHP will provide a really nice level of comfort. There will be a WBS for the caveman enthusiasts. Upstairs will be either fancy radiators run of the ASHP or just a couple of electric heaters on the wall for top up. Did not know this, I have assumed it was so poor I did not take it into consideration, however it really does help with stability of temperature as the house even unheated and with just the upstairs insulated stay very stable. I have no issues with glazing as the house faces east so only gets a bit of sun in the morning due to a hill. anyway a bit of a ramble but just another perspective.

I have a hobby caravan as it was the biggest I could buy and still get on a small barge..... plus fit down a very narrow road, they are about a foot wider than a lot of the other vans and that extra foot goes a long way to making it feel a bit more spacious. If I had the funds I would buy another one for random guests as space is at a premium right now......

Haha that’s what I thought, but water really should not be coming in, I just built my own timber doors, frames and seals and and have just had 3 days on intense driving rain and wind directly onto the doors and they are working great. Get the canopy but don’t forget what prompted you to buy it !!!!!!!@

As nice as this may look I don’t think it will stop any water being driven under the door, is water actually getting inside the threshold ? Could this be fixed by proper seals ?

Understand you point and in most cases I have avoided using it, however in some situations where, time, money and ability are against me I will use it for specific jobs.

Roundup will only kill what you spray it on, it’s comes out of a small nozzle and is very controlled.

At some point your going to need to clear the site and as others have said you will need to get it scraped and levelled, this is digger work ! Have a good look at the rest of your site to see if you can landscape in as much soil as possible as removal will be expensive.

Come the spring wait till most things are greening up then hit it with a poison such as roundup, make sure you ware protective clothing, I always ware gloves waterproofs that can be washed and wellington boots. Poison is nasty stuff but it has its use. Personally I would not bother with a chipper / shredder as it does not look like you have enough stuff to warrant it.

It’s a good time to be clearing up a garden as all the old growth is not covered in new greenery, however if the aim is to get it as clear as possible as a “stage1” then I would just cut everything you can a low as you can, dig out any easy root balls From shrubs and smaller plants and just pile it all up in a corner as it will rot down over the spring / summer.

Are you going to be building on this ?

If that’s £2750 plus VAT.......... I am fairly astonished. Just buy the stuff and do it yourself..... forgot you can’t because you need the HETAS registration, any way round this ?

Just been spending far to long trying to research cooker hoods..... what a total minefield out there especially as my desired budget is £300.......

Very glad I accepted the offer of a few pallets of plaster board for free as they had some minor damage by the forklift, rather than sorting through them all by hand the boys in the yard were happy to put them on my trailer and away I went. When the time comes I will be happy to repair and damaged edges rather than pay for spanking new boards.

All posh sheds should have a toilet and shower, how else are you going to get cleaned up before going into the main dwelling, also I think it’s imperative that a man shed should have a loo ! Keeps one out the house longer........

Sounds amazing, if I had such a shed I would be living on it !

pretty sure when I was researching about this that a steep fall is not a problem

just had a look and very reasonable.

I will do some research but if anyone had a “go to” place online to buy 221 please do share ! many thanks.

have something similar to do at some point and was wondering if you had a link to the WAGOs that you are using so I can get the specifications and track some down. Thanks