Conor

We're using compactfoam for our door blocks, these need to be set on a lean concrete mix. There will be 75mm or so under the compact foam that will be a potential cold bridge. Architect has suggested an insulated vermiculate concrete mix. Only mixes I've found (6:1) are for screeding and don't contain sand or stone. Anybody have a mix? Was think 6 coarse vermiculite, 3 sand and 1 cement.

Don't do the UFH and screening until you've brought any services through the floor - e.g. waste pipe and electrics to a kitchen island. I'm doing the first first MVHR and plumbing at the minute so when the stud wall guys come I'm ready to get services in walls along with the spark. They're only giving us 1 week between studs going up and final plasterboarding so we need to be on the ball!! We're planning UFH and then screening after all plasterboarding etc is completed. You don't want to be scraping lumps of plaster or cement off your £17m² liquid screed floor.

We'll have three wet rooms in the house all with walk in showers. The guy at the bathroom place was trying to sell me a £600 insulated board based kit for a shower... All floors are concrete with 75-100mm screed. Would I use a paint on system for the entire room:https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-shower-waterproofing-kit/78484?tc=QB4&ds_kid=92700046986170840&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245725&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=CjwKCAjw7diEBhB-EiwAskVi1wo7ZYuc-PnMlNmB5d8NfO_wMbxDTurWZ0gQpwU0JRt_6Uy7Uu8aQRoCqSYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds or so I need something more for the shower and bath areas, like this? https://www.tradewetrooms.com/impey-waterguard-wetroom-wall-floor-membrane-kit-10m2-copy/?gclid=CjwKCAjw7diEBhB-EiwAskVi1xHEkQaaNaaAJvlLFoa9Oa0llYXny--tP3a0DHAJP9c5yZwTC7MVERoCBo8QAvD_BwE Anything else to consider?

The oil and gas industry is pushing it. No other reason. It's a lame duck, but they're desperate.

Hi. I've gone for a full solar edge setup - 5.2pkW. Reason being that my panels are spread over three different roof elevations. I got a good price for everything from ITS - yet to be installed so yet to see how it works!

We put together an itemised list and got the architect to sign it off. That and the provisional SAP assessment was all they needed. Everything else was standard, three months bank statements, pay slips etc etc.

203*133*30 UB. max span between supports is about 5m @Moggaman sorry, a bit beyond my knowledge I'm afraid. It would all depend on what loads the floor is designed to take.

Can't remember the building regs requirement for trickle ventilation (10mm² per m²?) but we were in similar position with no trickle vents on our main windows. BC guy was happy with the trickle vent (as in window always left in the partial open position) in the skylight.

If you're going to all the bother and disruption, put triple glazing in rather than double. Sizable benefit for not much more money. And don't forget the airtightness tape! Do what you can for draft proofing and insualtion in the house before (have you 400mm insualtion in your loft yet? Pumped cavities or external wall insulation?) you think about changing heating systems.

Brother had same issue in a house he'd bought. Apparently several attempts to repair over the years. He got it taken down when doing other works and slated over. No issues since. It's a balance between architectural conservation and the reality of keeping a building warm and dry with reasonable techniques and costs. At some point the balance tips.

Yes. our house is 13m wide and ridge rests on two intermediate block walls. I think only 1 was required tho. NB likely a ridge beam will come in shorter lengths and be spliced together on site so you'll likely need at least one intermediate support wall. Our ridge to wall plate is just under 5m.

Welcome. Ask a question and we'll do our best.

Similar spans to our house. Central steel ridge beam and 250x50mm joists at 400m cc for the cut roof. In the end we went with an insulated panel system. We have secondary 150mm joists at the suspended ceiling to stop the panels spreading. Can't remember the name but similar to purlins but they don't bear on anything... Just braces the two roof halves together at about 1m down from the ridge. Btw why 2400mm ceilings? May as well vault fully or go to at least 2700mm. Will make it feel much bigger.

Firstly, I didn't know these existed! When picking up a large order of plumbing bits yesterday, the guy asked what I was doing and I said building a house. He said I should have a trade account... Just got a call to say it's all setup and I'd soon be getting a credit note on my account as they're applying the trade discount to my four precious orders. Happy days! So, think it's worth mentioning trade account to your local Screwfix as there no requirements to show you're an actual business. Think it comes with 10% discount on all prices.

We had a external monsoon fan that did 600m³hr in almost silence. Would do the same again, will never have a large fan inside a kitchen again.

Building regs stipulate min of 22mm diameter for a condensing appliance so I don't see why not.

Saggart

One of my client's projects in ireland is a 100,000m³ covered reservoir. When we were preparing the tender, one thing that we highlighted to the contractors was that the construction of the walls would require the equivalent of Ireland's entire concrete production capacity for a 4 week period!

We don't have aldi in northern Ireland so always miss out on these tool bargains

Combi all the way. With just two people and one bathroom, there's no sense in keeping a big tank of water hot all the time. Plus you'll free up the space of not needing a hot water tank or cold water tank in attic.

That's what I thought. I've a couple parts on my shipping container that could do with patching before they eventually rust through... I know a rod welder would burn right through the thin cortan.

Anybody else? I'm now thinking a twin stud wall with 100mm gap for PIR. Will allow me to screw in on either site of wall. Vapour barrier behind the ply on the warm side.

Just read up on it, and a basic flux wire MIG welder seems to be the perfect tool for me.

A little welder would be really handy for me... Need to patch up my trailer and some other general light jobs. I've no idea. Can't see myself doing anything too heavy. Standard arc with rods or MIG?!

Good to know, esp at half the price of a Bora