Conor

We costed up solar control glass. Brise soleil worked out much cheaper. Being in Northern Ireland, outside air temps *rarely* go above the low 20s, so cooling by air purging will do the job. We've gone for triple glazed units throughout, Inc the 4.6m bifolds.

Doesn't building to a high standard really change your perspectives? Instead of 250mm thick insulation along a 1200mm strip, I'd have a mere 150mm. Unnaceptable!!!

I'm in exactly the same position. Architect suggested extended door sill all the way out... But I don't think the EPS will take the abuse. I'm thinking of losing 100mm of the EPS and filling with concrete down. It's not a major cold bridge...

Thanks. Ceiling it is.

A sheet of 100mm PIR is coming in at £37 at the minute. Can't remember what it used to be, but think it was around £30. Now wish I had floor depth for EPS!!!

I have aircon cooled 4x2m room planned in the NE corner of the basement. So two external walls, and internal block wall and doorway, and a fourth wall to be constructed. Latter is what I'm interested in. I was planning on building a standard 100mm stud wall, filling with rockwool and lining the cold side with taped 100mm foil faced PIR. Finish TBC but likely some sort of plastic bathroom paneling type system. Other side of the stud wall is the plant room. Was going to out another 50mm of PIR on this side, then screw on sheets of either ply or OSB to form a mounting surface. Do I need to consider a vapour barrier? Would this go on the warm side? Would this build up be sufficient or should I be looking at some sort of twin wall / cavity build up? I concsious that this design doesn't allow me to easily mount anything to the cold side wall.

For the basement I've the choice of either running my hot and cold water pipes on the underside of the GF floor slabs (within suspended ceiling) and then dropping down to the appliances. Or running along the top (or through) the floor insualtion and then up through screed to the appliances. My preference is within the suspended ceiling as I'm not yet at the point of putting down floor insualtion. Any disadvantages other than slightly longer pipe runs?

I build using feel, instinct and my eyes. Understandably that leads to many cockups, so any kind of buffer is of high value to me!

So can I connect 40mm solvent pipe to this kind of boss? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-sp581-boss-pipe-black-110mm/97309

Another waste plumbing noob question... I've only ever used push fit in the past for small jobs, no issues. I've a lot of branches in my design (40m of 40mm ) and quite a few bends, tees etc. Some of these are within the screed floor or suspended under concrete floor slabs. my instinct is telling me solvent join would be a better option so reduce chance of pipes pulling out of sockets?

I know red-brown is for underground and black is above. Within the envelope of the house it would mean black... and when I go below the floor slab or through an external wall I switch to underground pipe. My main question, is there any difference between grey and black pipes??!!! https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-sp3-single-socket-soil-pipe-black-110mm-x-3m-2-pack/56187 https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-sp3-single-socket-soil-pipe-grey-110mm-x-3m-2-pack/15484

We went for a self adhesive bituminous system that was laid under the slab and then lapped over the footing and stuck to the ICF walls all the way up to ground level. Comes guaranteed. 100mm perforated perimeter drain and back filled to ground level with clean stone and geo-membrane. We didn't do anything else. The best waterproofing is keeping water away from the building. Drainage around and under the slab is essential. You just need somewhere to drain to....

32mm is more than sufficient, unless you planning on filling a swimming pool, running sprinklers and having a shower at the same time.

@patp computer says no.

The key thing about having an island in a kitchen is segregation of functions and a clear traffic route. In our house we had the business end down at the gable- oven, hob, prep area, later. The everyday stuff, fridge sink, kettle, toaster etc were at the other end. This meant if you were doing a cook up, nobody would be heading down that end of the kitchen. For fear of being given a job. If there is a through route to another room, leave at least 1200mm on that side of the island and don't have any busy areas, e.g dishwasher. We had the plates and glasses units on the "traffic" side of the island along with tow stools and was never an issue. Post your floorplans.

Haldane of all places. We priced Howdens, and four independent places in Belfast/Ards/Bangor. Haldane where second cheapest to Howdens but kitchens much nicer and they install. One place we priced sells same range as Haldane but was £3k more expensive for basically the same kitchen!! A friend got one installed by them last year and was very happy. And they take credit card with no additional fee. Most others don't.

When we enquired and explained we were self builders, they said they'd happily open an account. In the end we've gone with a local company as they are well priced, fully supply and fit and have personal recommendations.

Would a telehandler reach? Could simply strap the parts under the forks and drop in. I know it's more money but far less than a crane.

So even though it's a closed spigot, I presume you can trim the end off and connected it up to JG coupler/bend/tee etc? I see what you mean about not being able to demount... think I'd stick in a coupler and a short section of pipe.

We're soft water so no issues there.

Don't jet wash as it lifts the wood fibers up and encourages algae to grow. I have used watered down bleach and a floor brush in the past. Don't sand.

Thanks everybody. 10mm hot and cold pipes to all WCs and basins 15mm to showers/baths and kitchen sink. Tee off in kitchen and utility for appliances, boiling water tap etc. 22mm supplies to the manifolds / UVC. At a quick count that means approx 30 individual pipes. I've not seen anything bigger than a 4 port manifold. Do you have to make your own from 22x15mm / 22x10mm tees?!

Can I get your thoughts on this @Nickfromwales please?! Is 10mm throughout the best option for hot and cold outlets? And one pipe per outlet? I'm thinking 15mm of larger outlets like showers and baths? I think we have 3-4bar mains pressure here. Thanks!

Here's one I made earlier

As above, the brown is for underground only, black above. BC allowed me away with a small section of underground pipe above ground where it joined to a bend, all I had to do was paint it to protect from UV damage.