Declan52

All our rhi schemes are closed here. Think it will be a long time before we get another as well.

The most important thing to consider is can you get someone to install the ashp and all is bits and commission it and get it working as it's meant to be. You can easily buy the unit and all its bits from ebay but as you have read on here countless times its the quality of the installation that will count the most.

Pretty impressive indeed. When you where doing your cost comparisons how much did you reckon oil would have cost per year.

Have you worked out the rough cost in electric over the year???

Parge the blocks. 50mm insulation and 50mm battens screwed to the wall. By using screws you can put packers in if the walls are slightly out. Membrane. Intello is good but one of the most expensive but there are plenty other options. 50mm batten to form your service cavity. Not sure a 25mm batten would work as well with regards the back boxes of sockets and switches. Plasterboard. Skim. You can form an envelope by bringing the membrane up and over the ceiling. Once all the membrane is in you can do an air test and see how you stand. Fix any leakage and then board over knowing its done right. By using a service cavity you will drastically cut down the air leakage from around sockets and switches which will make your house nice and warm.

That's not a ideal scenario. Two sets of plumbers needed so will both find fault with the others work and blame the other when it doesn't work and you end up with the bill.

1. 150mm is the min recommended if you are using clay to backfill the founds. It can't have organic material in it. Your looking this gap to accommodate any swell in your fill. You can fill it will stone but this costs more. 2. Are you on a site that's liable to flood or have a high water table?? 3. The radon barrier is dependant on your location. Check where you are. https://www.ukradon.org/information/ukmaps Its not expensive to buy any way. £100 would cover most people's build.

Didn't know ozzy was big in the renewable energy market.

I find the same with mine. Keep it at a nice glow and open the doors to my kitchen Sunroom and to the hallway. I had mine lit on monday and haven't needed any heat since. But if I'm not at home and the wife closes the doors the room can quickly get to 30+.

Is 50mm pir in a cavity enough to satisfy building regs?? You can parge coat the block work to seal it up then do as you propose. 50mm battens with 50mm insulation in between. Then it's up to you. You could overboard with more insulation and tape it up then plasterboard. Or use a membrane. Your going to have to think about cables for plugs switches etc. Do you put in a service cavity too run all the cables. For your roof is it a bungalow with a room in the roof type setup?? If so you can either cut pir to fit between the rafters (not a nice or easy job) then put more pir underneath. Or high density rockwool in between and pir underneath. Or cross batten the roof to give you 200mm and get the insulation blown in. All have their pros and cons.

Is it not more a question of comparing the thermal store and the sun amp. The price of the heat pump and all the bits that go with it will be not much different than an oil boiler and its extras(2nd official tax paying job was programing the oil watchman) . We are spoilt here as we have both grant and warm flow made here plus a few oil tank manufacturers, Kingspan and harelquin so get better prices than you mainland folk. So it's just comparing the thermal store and sun amp. The sunamp will be higher up front cost and could be depending on your demand you might need 2 units. But long term if you factor in the costs of oil to run your boiler, with the ever fluctuating price of oil plus service costs, the heating of your thermal store and factor in heat loss and compare this with the c.o.p of your heat pump charging the sunamp then the sunamp should come out on top. Then you also have the risk of oil leaks which can destroy a house. If I went completely mad in the head and done another build using a sunamp would be high on my list but and it's a big but I'm not sure how much knowledge there is here but @Alphonsox put a couple in his house so somebody here does them. Maybe he could give details of who done his.

You didn't have to waste heat to earn loads you just burnt as much pellets as the boiler could handle. You where paid on what you used, didn't matter if it was chickens that where kept warm or vintage tractors.

Mine is pretty much that setup with UFH on the ground floor and 4 small rads upstairs. I have a 350l thermal store that supplies all my heating and dhw needs. As above you can empty it fairly quick if a zones called for heat and the big shower was in use at the same time. It does lose heat as soon as your heat source stops warming it up but by insulating all the pipework and I put extra around it using cylinder jackets I have managed to get it as low as possible. Before I done any of that work I could have grew lots of dodgy plants in that room. It was by far the warmest room in the house. By also cutting 20m of the bottom of the door any heat lost will go out into the landing and heat the upstairs without turning the rads on. It's not a perfect setup but it works for me. I found after a few months of tinkering that 63 degrees was my sweetspot to keep the tank warm and let it last longer. Any higher and I lost more heat to the upstairs. Also having the water coming out of my shower at 3 bar is great. Last house was 1 bar if nothing else was running.

That's why I would just send them all in just to get them in and have a reference number. Then they can get back and forth to you if there are any queries.

Have you started to fill out the form then but just have a few missing items?? Give them a call and explain the circumstances and that you are still waiting on the missing invoices but will have it sent through in a week via recorded delivery. Invoices for landscaping is a grey area as unless it's for things like retaining walls needed to form a driveway for example or its in the plans for trees to be planted then they will be refused. I put every invoice I had into the form and sent it away and let them figure out what was correct to claim for.

Sorry to hear about your husband. Has the house been passed by building control and your completion certificate been issued??? I also had to get a pole moved due to a stay in my drive so I know how they drag their feet.

A piece of cement board attached to the wall but with a 12mm spacer(bolt maybe) to keep it out from the wall. Then tile or whatever over it.

I used some of my stone cladding to put behind my stove. Something like that or a tile wouldn't be expensive.

Is not beyond the realms of possibility to have got a puncture from a stray nail.

Why would you want another layer of concrete. The hot and cold pipes will sit on the subfloor and will be covered over with a 50mm thick insulation. You can then overboard with your next layer whatever that depth is. Mine was 75mm sand cement screed Dirt cheap near enough cling film polythene 100mm pir 50mm pir to cut upto any pipes for sinks, baths etc. I mixed a very weak screed 7:1 and infilled over so the top sheet sat flush. Radon barrier Sub floor. The thing I didn't like about the liquid screeds is that although they heat up quick they also cool down quick.

I used them for my door frames. Really easy to drive in and out to get the frame perfect.

There is a heat loss spreadsheet on the forum that you can put in all the different types of wall construction and cavity widths and see where your sweet spot is. You will need prices of Epson beads, rock wool, cavity boards etc to figure it out though.

Should be unemployed.

The width of the cavity will be determined by what you want to end up with. Some installers use graphite beads which will give you a better overall u value which means you can have a narrower cavity. You will have to contact the various companies near you to find out what beads they do and then what width will meet building regs. If you want the house warmer then the cavity will have to be wider,150mm at a min but that's up to you. Beads will be blown in under high pressure so fill every single gap. As they are covered in glue they set in the cavity to form a single lump with tiny holes for any water that gets in from the outside to trickle down to the bottom. Rockwool and cavity boards you are at the mercy of the guy putting them in. If they don't get put tight to the wall then heat escapes and the expensive insulation is worthless. With Rockwool drops of motar can leave air gaps as well. Icf would work as well. How is access as you will need lots of concrete and a big pump.

Just keep a spare tile or two and make note of where the bends are. Write it in marker on the back of the spare tile and put the tile in the attic. If the leak happens, very unlikely but can happen, then it's only a tile of, cut your way through and replace the 90 bends.