Declan52

Heras fencing is a 10 sec job to get past. If some one is determined to get on to your site and steal things nothing will really stop them. So being realistic it's cameras and site insurance to cover any losses.

Welcome. A good first step is joining this forum as you will soon find out as hopefully your build progresses and problems arise. First things first then why don't you post your plans and we can look at them and see if there are any obvious issues that might be affecting your budget. Chances are we might also come up with ideas or amendments that could save you some money. Don't discount any company just yet as they will have been inundated with questions following them self build shows.

Ian put the phone in airplane mode and get them boards stuck down. Was going to say your over thinking this bit but you know!!! Some body mentioned putting it in a bucket with warm water so try that if your worried.

What about using a cobra to see if it is blocked and then you can mark it, pull it out and lay it on the ground along its route to give the x marks the spot. Some hire shops have them. http://www.dartsystems.co.uk/products/cable-installation-external-pipedart-compact-cobra-duct-rod-c-72_69_195/

Looks dead on. By the time you put a door stop on it there won't be much to see of the join.

Could you not use a timer plug and set it so it turns itself off then on each day at 5am.

You can go with a single skin option using blocks on their flat and combine this with external insulation which you then render what ever colour you want which will then be waterproof. The problem with using bricks is they aren't waterproof so will pull water in towards the house, hence a cavity would be needed to stop the damp going all the way in. With blocks they will store the heat and then slowly release it back.

That's the type I had. The amount of stuff it can chew up is unreal.

You forgot gloves. And isopropyl for when you forget your gloves and d4 glue gets entwined in your dna. If the short join is in between joists that's fine, doesn't have to land on a joist. It will be glued so the board on the run before and after that join will it hold up.

I had a proper big shredder for mine and that is a scary piece of equipment. One slip and your mush.

Either that or your hand in a tesco bag. I know what one I'm picking.

A bit more information on what it is. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ukstoves.co.uk/getfile/349&ved=2ahUKEwilt-viqtXgAhU-TRUIHbdGCZEQFjAQegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw3UHMXf3MDYC3cliXfKtxSD&cshid=1551044507025

They will be fine. He is just using it as a cheap sub-base material. He says he needs lots so use cheap stuff. Roller it in going no more than 200mm at a time and it will compact and stay together lovely. Then top it with whatever you want for your finish, quarry dust and paving slabs for example.

If there are any roadwork schemes going on near you call in and ask will they sell you a few loads.

Put another stud in. Or when you made it in the first place you put the one it just misses to the left a bit as long as it still works fine on the other side.

I have my ufh and rads on a different output. My thermal store is upstairs and from it to my radiator manifold would be less than 1 metre. I just use a simple time clock which I can program to come on in the morning to start the pump to start heating upstairs. Nice and simple. All that other stuff is plumbers black magic talk.

If your doing a chalet type roof its is easier to go landscape. The first vertical wall is usually 1200mm high. Much easier on the slope as well as you will use more full boards but might get left with a 100-300mm piece before you get to the ceiling. It just depends on the particular roof.

Anyone can easily get a nice looking car on pcp or hp. And its all about appearances, nice car and a well dressed sales rep gives a good first impression.

You will have cuts at one end but you don't want to be cutting each board because some joiner can't use a tape. Takes time plus the waste aspect. Cut a bit of lath at 1200 with marks at 400 and 800 and use this to help you set out you bottom and top stud.

No definitely not. I found bathroom showrooms the worst by a mile.

When the window rep came out to do the measurements on mine it was him that suggested a few changes to what was already agreed on by us, the architect and the window company . I had top openers on some downstairs windows and he pointed out that changing these to side opening units would work much better. He was correct. We also have a wrap around window but wanted an opening section at one side but by standing in the room and looking out he persuaded us to go with no opening in both of these units and was correct again. Plus as the rep will be your main point of contact so it's always better to meet face to face a few times so you can build up a rapport with them. Generally speaking Windows and Doors will be one of the most expensive aspects of your build so you want to measure up the rep and the company before you part with your money. Maybe it's just me but I am more a people person where I will base my decision on where I spend my money on how the person I interact with behaves towards me. I walked out of plenty of showrooms because I just didn't like the rep during my build. Nothing wrong with the product I just knew we wouldn't get on.

No chance would I be taking the risk of doing the measurements. If they want the business then the window company will send some one out to do the job or they wouldn't get the job, simple as that.

A couple of scaffold planks will get you a flat enough base.

Just do it using a small spot weld to hold each bar in place then do the bottom section first. Then hopefully you should be able to tackle the top and leave a presentable weld. You will know when you finish the bottom row if you are able to otherwise just hide it.

If you cut the top of the bar at 45 degrees it will look nicer than you cutting them flat. If you can weld it nice (very broad term) you can weld at both sides where it sits on the horizontal bar. If you can't weld nice then hide the whole weld underneath the bar.