Declan52

Didn't know he was ill, was such a nice guy to deal with.

As far as I know David is the boss. There based at Lisnasure interiors shop as it was his mum and dad I got talking to when I went to buy a sofa. So if he is not there anymore then I find that a bit strange.

Mine where bullnose. The boards come with a primer coat already on. The sheets don't. If going for sheets put a couple of coats of pva on first to seal it up or it will suck the paint in like you have never seen. If you can get 300mm boards with a primer on them I would go that way. If not then suit the budget. How much will the final cost be to cut a sheet up, put a bullnose on it, seal it and a few coats of paint compared to a 300mm already primed and rounded on the edge board.

D4 glue is what I used for my chipboard floor but it sticks to everything esp skin.

I just bought 5.5m lengths and cut from them. Not sure you can get it 300mm deep though. If not you can rip it out of a sheet a use a router to put the bull nose on it. Any good joiner should be able to do this.

Mine are painted MDF. Easier to work with than real timber, easy to sand and prime and paint. If it's a painted cill presumably white then its MDF all day long.

I seeded my new lawn 3 weeks ago and it is already well burst through. I used one of the fast growing seeds and watered it every morning and evening . Also mixed plenty of fertiliser into the top soil to give it a boost.

What about a wet beach towel or 2 wrapped round the tank. And somebody on fire watch as you are welding. Start of with a few tacks just to see how easy it is to get in position before you start the proper weld. Can you not use a bit of hose and suck the diesel out back into the Gerry can.

Quite a few have got there systems from bpc, me included and I also used vent tiles. Much easier than going through block work.

You will have wet rooms where you want to remove air, kitchen bathrooms, utility rooms. Then you have rooms where you want the fresh air put back in, living room, hallways etc. The exact layout will be done by whoever you get your system from. For the outside its just an air vent which brings clean air in direct to the mhrv and a vent through which all the "dirty" air gets expelled from. Once again depending on your system these 2 vents might be in a wall or through vent tile.

Bullying old school like happened in our time when you came home with a busted lip and a black eye was at least noticeable. Nowadays its all done on smart phones. My girl had an Instagram group set up about her and she was heart broken. Same girl who done it take turns on a different girl every few months. teacher hadn't a clue what it was all about being old so didn't understand the inns and outs of it.

Feelings get hurt every day of the week in every job of the week. Are you best buddies with any of the neighbours as in if the invite for a BBQ missed your step would you be sad. In life look after yourself and your family everyone else can form an orderly queue and wait to be helped or offended either one won't really bother me which one they get.

Go for the throat. What is the worst that can happen your already stalled build, more delays. True the other builds might get stopped but that's not your fault. Either the council has a policy or it doesn't, can't be just for some and not others . As above letters with warnings about how they have shafted you and you expect a reply in 14 days and then you will be seeking the recovery of all costs that have been accrued. Take no prisoners. Gd luck.

Most of the above gets done on a regular basis and a lot more.

Dig a hole with a spade to around 500mm deep. If it's only been a small spill any contamination will be here. If it's there you will def smell it. Get the LA tube to come out and see for himself that it's( hopefully )clear. If you are lucky enough to hit water and its clear then there is no spill. But if you aren't lucky and find oil then he will ask for a proper survey to be done with samples sent away and a gas monitoring pipe installed as well. Best dig the hole before he comes out so you are prepared either way.

I left the metal box in the void and cut it flush with the bottom of the joist. Took very accurate measurements and drew them out so when the time came I just cut through and slipped in the ceiling covers. As nick says a ceiling with no wires hanging down or holes will end up much flatter.

Red diesel round here !!!!

For domestic it was based on your as built sap rating. Depending on when you had your plans passed you didn't need an air pressure test done like me. So there was a limit on how much you could actually get paid. For domestic the most you could ever get paid was £2500 a year no matter what your sap rating was. For commercial its paid out on how much you use which has to be the most stupid method ever thought off which has resulted in widespread fraud with some of the warmest sheds in the northern hemisphere found in NI.

I only got mine approved last Friday. Application went in last October so its been a long wait but got there in the end. Seems all the fraud was on the commercial side of things so why did they punish the self builders???

How rough is the stone as in how humpy and bumpy is it. I would put the stone on first as its easier to trim upvc than stone.

If the lorry is going straight on and off you will end up with track marks sunk in. If the lorry has to turn and its fully loaded with a lot of weight you will end up with ruts in it. Some of the lorries could be upwards of 30 tonne esp a full concrete lorry.

And unless the outer skin is going to be 4ft thick if a car traveling at any speed hits a wall its getting parked in your house. Ask the architect how times he has based his construction method on the slim chance of a car hitting a house???

Your not going to build a massive reinforced roof incase a plane falls out of the sky. If you live on a main road fair enough build a nice thick garden wall to stop the 1/1,000,000 chance of a car ending up in your living room. This leaves you free to build a house as you see fit in whatever build method that YOU want not what your architect wants.

Let it dry out and once dry a bit of bleach and wash it down and don't plaster it till its gone incase it blows.

Heavy wall galvanised angle iron will do what you need.