Declan52

Has the cavity filled up and then the rain has no where to go execpt inside under the frame. The water is running down the frame hits the dpc you have between the block work and the frame and can't get out any of the weep vents. These could be covered over by droppings from building the blocks.

Don't hold the ladder for him!!

The new cistern systems overflow down the bowl so get that type installed. Just let the damaged areas dry out and see how it looks. Most times it will leave no marks whatsoever. Unless the plasterboard has went to mush it will only be a repaint job if needed.

It weighs 68kg that must be some unit. I will put the screws in while you hold it up @Nickfromwales.

It is 300mm down. You could get away with more depth because the whole thing is white against a white ceiling so isn't very noticeable at all. Mine is out the top so in order to get it to fit I cut out a square in the gap between joists in my ceiling, I have attic truss but would work with any kind of joists. I put some 50mm insulation on the sides and top of the hole and to stop sound from going through to the room above. The duct comes out the top and then loops into the hole comes back down and then goes outside. Just make sure you buy a fan that is powerful enough. It's more important to take the steam away than be fancy looking. The flat ceiling fans I looked at where all up wards of £1k and the vertical type where even more expensive and I just couldn't justify paying more on a fan than I did on the hob, oven ,fridge and dishwasher combined. Google dropped ceilings and have a look as there are a lot of very nice looking ones. Any joiner worth his salt could make one very handy enough out of MDF.

I done a similar thing in my kitchen. It was just a sheet of 18mm MDF with a bit of stud to make a frame. Plenty of big screws to hold the studs to the underneath of the joists. I put some down lights in it to shine light on the island and a colour changing led strip around the edge. The extractor fan is just a normal type you would put in any built over type unit. All in including the fan it was approx £250. I have the fan wired into a switch on the wall so just gets turned on here.

Lovely looking shed but he has some of the tyvek wrap on upside down!!!

Most comfortable safety boots I have ever worn. http://www.grisport.co.uk/safety-boots-c80 From experience don't weld in them as the hot rocks burn threw the fabric tongue and you do a rain dance.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-plaster-board-carrier/51509 These are pretty good if you haven't got good grip strength. Easy than trying to stretch your fingers round the board.

Mine was a mapie product that was basically a rapid hardener so it cured and dried out fast. I still followed the slight increase in temp each day when I got the plumbing sorted. Any reason you are in such a rush to tile??

You can put additives in which greatly speed the drying up. I added some to my sand cement screed and it was ready to tile in 14 days.

A bit of messing about with the welder will do you no harm at all. Burn a few holes leave a few blobs who cares. Will help you get rid of some of that stress stuff that I am sure is building up in you.

Is that in Braille!!

@Nickfromwales knows a guy who does screeding. Maybe he can get you his number and you can have a chat.

Just leave them in and you can hang up all your coats, tea towels, cups, hats, pictures, dartboards etc. The list is endless!!!

Mine can record to a USB drive. I have used it to download films etc on to and there is a hack with Kodi that allows you to use a SD card or usb drive as a way of expanding the amount of ram available to you. How well it would do recording from different locations on a network not sure as they aren't very good at running a couple of applications at the same time.

Get on to the scaffold and try to push the tile up from the batten. The un nailed tiles will slide pretty easy. Pick a few rows and see if he really did nailed them.

Are you joking!!! Hard to make out from the pics but are you saying all the joints on the tiles are in a line and not 1 nail was used??? You can get roof tiles that are laid like this but they are the wavy looking tiles which yours are definitely not.

They are very easy to use to install apps that are frowned upon. The likes of Kodi , showbox and the various apps that use IPTV all run perfectly on them. I just Google the app that I am looking and search for its APK and install it from its own download manager. They aren't very good for browsing though. I use a Bluetooth keyboard when I need to type anything, using a mouse to type with wears thin very quickly. Only ever used the remote to turn it off when it crashes and the mouse won't work.

@JSHarris You can use autostart apps that load up whatever you are trying to get to start each time you start the box. I used autostart no root on an older box so xbmc , what kodi used to be called before it became popular, loaded up at the start.

I done similar with building in my parents. I had to get way leaves to discharge sewer and rainwater into there run. They where going to make me upgrade the length of pipe from the connection point to the main sewer from 100mm to 150mm. It's only 2m across the boundary so they agreed it was pointless. What is stopping the development from getting adopted??? You are only putting in the plans now so realistically you have at least 2 years before you will be moving in so plenty of time for the new development to be adopted.

Think you need to get your calculator out again. 1 10mm bed 1 215mm block 1 10mm bed 1 65mm brick 300mm. You use a standard block if price is an issue, they are the cheapest and the thermal properties don't matter. You use thermal / lightweight/ aerated if you want to boost the u value of the wall you are building or to provide a thermal break as you come out of the ground. I used aerated blocks on all my inside skin of my cavity build but every single internal wall was just a standard block. You won't need to use anything stronger than 7n blocks.

That's a big door!!!

Must be one hell of a door if it needs a 9x9 inch concrete head to carry it!!! How wide is the span??? If you have to use a concrete head then you move it forward so the back side is level with the inside of the door. You can then use 50mm or even 75mm of your perimeter insulation against the head. You will still have some heat loss through the bottom of the frame that sits on the head. How much depends on your quality of Windows you pick and how wide the span is. Then it's a question of can you live with that amount of heat loss. You will also need to knock the top block off on the inside skin so your insulation carries over the cavity to the door.

I coated my drive in 20mm depth of granite chippings. Got a full lorry load tipped in the drive them levelled it out. Priced the grid stuff up and laughed at how much it was costing. In near 18 months down I have raked it once. If you put the stone too deep it will move all over the place and look real bad.