Big Jimbo

Sounds like a great result. I would be interested on a cost re your floor area. Best of luck getting finished now.

I am going to be using aerated block. 1 Lime, 1 Cement, 6 sand, for mortar. Any recommendations for render over that @nod

I can be quite a farter, so I also generate a fair bit of energy. Obviously, not a technical as @SteamyTea's method.

I just couldn't get through it. When you are five minutes in and nothing has yet been said, my mind tapered off. What is the device ?

Looks great in the pictures.

@DazRave to be honest, it was more about sticking as much as possible on the roof while it was being built.

I'm sure it was you that told me to fit as much as I can while building the house. I would defo get bits of shading to each of the 3 elevations from some tall trees. I'm happy for any suggestions.

Thinking further, I would need some ac/DC safety cut off switches, an inverter or two ? Some sort of diverter to send power to the immersion. Some sort of diverter to an electric car charger. Got to find some more time to get into it. My total budget is 12K so with what else I still have to get, I doubt a battery will be included.

My plan so far is to fit 17, 435w solar panels on the roof using gse trays (only ones I can find) fit 17 optimisers. I would like to fit these in the loft, rather than under the panels, so they could be got at more easily in the future. Run however many cables I need from the loft, down through the house, and duct them under the block and beam floor and into the detached double garage about 4 meters away from the house. Run a fat wire back from the garage in a separate duct to under the stairs, for potentially powering an immersion on the unvented hot water cylinder. That's as far as I have thought so far. I haven't had a chance to think about inverters etc so far. The above should be achievable DIY for about 5k. Hope I'm not missing to much so far.

Most of the Muppets out there still don't understand air tightness and thermal bridging. We are all here to help. Best of luck.

The weight of the screed will help, as would a full size snooker table. They will have been designed to have a maximum deflection.

To be fair to the chippie. He is booked to do a job. Turns up, and this is the position he is in. He has tried to get over it, but just badly. It would have been better if he had said, mate that timber in the web ain't deep enough. We are going to have to sort that before we start hanging joists. For future reference, i always get posi joists over length for trimming. Even if You are using the metal web one's they will put on a trimmable end if you ask them.

How much better does that look.

The wood within the web of the steel is simply not deep enough. It should be at least as deep as the web, and in an ideal world, extend a few mm beyond. The joist at 90 degrees would then be fully supported in the joist hanger. Don't accept that crap work under any circumstances. If the wood in the web is not deep enough, and needs a packer to bring it out clear of the steel, ply would be fine, but I would expect it to be glued and screwed onto the timber behind, and specified by a structural engineer. No problem using packers, but they have to be done correctly.

Then that will be fine, and much better than cutting into joists.

As the two front rooms are offset, I wonder if the water could be getting in at the top. Was a cavity tray fitted ? Either that or could it be something to do with the wet areas on the other side of the wall ?

Not seen that type myself. If it is hard water scale it will take some shifting. I would be taking the bowl out to make life easier. Its why I have never used the built in the wall ones. I have never fancied trying to change whatever through the hole in the front. Best of luck.

Is the pipe from the sink going under joists or through them ?

What ever you do, don't drill the bloody floor. Unless the plastic feet are complete cheap shite, they will be fine. 100 plus kitchens fitted with granite on plastic feet. Never had a problem bud

Love it, looks fabulous.

Just be careful in relation to what you put on the wall. I usually use sticks of timber to stand units off the wall. The problem you have to avoid is chunky deep timbers in the wall may well prevent your washing machine going back far enough into your unit. Ie; they hit the timber that you have put on the wall.

I saw some of it. It was good. If I remember she was from the States. did a great job where others would have just given up.

You had a lucky escape. Trying to unblock a saniflow that takes turds ain't no fun my friend.

If they are not 30mm into the cavity, they are a building control fail. However, BC will probably not even notice. If you have ever seen black mould and damp around a window reveal, it will generally be because the windows are not fitted within the cavity. This is also a cold bridge, and ultimately it will cost you more to heat your house forever. You might be able to get over it by glueing 20mm pir to the head, sides, and bottom, followed by plasterboard glued to the pir. The pir would need to be sealed with airtight tape to the window, and to the internal blockwork wall where it meets the reveal. You will only be able to do this if the frames are chunky, and can accommodate the extra build up. For anybody reading, if you have full fill cavity, you are not required to fit those worthless (fit after) cavity closers. If you do need to close a cavity, you would be much better off with a 50mm plus, bit of pir, and a foam gun. Hope you get it sorted. I would be asking for a copy of the written instructions that the window company received from your builders, getting Fensa involved. not paying any outstanding monies, and taking out a small claim against them. Best of luck getting it sorted.

My SE has speed 300 bearing each end for my steel, and 200mm for another. Even concrete lintels over internal doors have to have a 150 bearing if the door opening is wider than 900. I would check with the beam designer. Less than 100mm sounds iffy.