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Re: costs, speak to your merchant about getting your invoices zero-rated (ours has) and in my experience trades are all happy to let me pay for materials directly off their account, getting the benefit of any discounts (which appear variable - e.g. flooring guy says buy online, tiler says we'll save 20-25% on his account) - impression I get is they'd rather not have the cashflow pinch and shouldn't be an issue getting the name changed for invoices where it incurs VAT.

👍 Is the second layer just cheaper impermeable stuff?

What did you end up doing @ToughButterCup?

I'm going for the same build-up and after seeing some wee rips on the house wrap membrane today am now thinking about fitting a membrane onto sarking when I put it up at the weekend (was going to just stick some polythene over it to keep the rain at bay for the 5 weeks until the rooflights and windows get fitted but a bit of membrane won't cost too much more). Maybe a daft question but once you've put the membrane across does that then make it difficult to walk on the roof/work from it/install any 'metal mat' below metal roof given you can't see the hit and miss sarking?

Welcome to pass on details of any recommended tape and filler!

Any tips? Would or would you not do it again? We are likely to be going with BPC - only concern is they don't have just given us a bog standard design and said 'you work it in with your joists' albeit they give us additional ducting to account for any waste which adds an element of risk.

Appreciate that, thanks - and that's exactly the approach we're taking. Just wondering what other's experience is of current market conditions as it'll inform whether we hang on for in-roof or retrofit later.

Does anyone have any market info on lead times? We've went from our likely contractor contacting us frequently to ask about progress to them going almost completely to ground and not responding to enquiries, and I've just completed an online enquiry with a competitor saying it's a 4 week turnaround just to respond to emails given demand. Ordering roofcoverings soon so will determine whether we go for in-roof as planned or for on-roof.

Yes - sounds hopefully straightforward then!

Any tips? Through an oversight on my part we have I rather than Posi joists and everything I can find online refers to using web/posi joists for MVHR.

Where do I get one of these steep driveways?

They've just told me they'll be marking the wall (SIPS panels) as a guide for the joists. I plan on fitting the tray in the dark tonight to let them start in the morning. Is there an alternative that works - seen the purple passive spray stuff but is that doable to get into junctions once joists are up?

Is that better than nothing but sub-optimal or does it do the job? Presumption is that the thicker the poly the more airtight it's likely to be?

I am planning on putting in Tony trays at floor junctions but my joiners have advised they need to see markings on the wall to put the joists in. Is there any clear airtightness membranes that I can buy from a merchant (need to do it tonight) or would a clear polythene have any benefit?

Advice we got was have your windows fixed to the kit, extending out across the cavity then 10mm beyond to allow for them to be sealed against the brickwork.

Appreciated, thanks.

We have a temporary meter with sockets outside. Kit just being erected. Current plan is to do some internal insulation prior to running first fix and siting consumer unit. What's the best way of providing artificial lighting inside in the meantime - rechargable lamps/rigging up some standing lamps to extension cable/quickly bringing meter in and running some cabling for temporary lights/other? Cheers.

Do you have any advice on detailing install for airtightness, insulation etc? Joiners doing this rather than the window fitters who'll come later and I think I'll need to spoonfeed them.

Due to unforeseen delays we are now looking a 8 weeks (over winter) between kit erection and windows being installed. Rooflights will however go in fairly quickly (as soon as we can get roof battened out). Provided we get some form of weathertight barrier on windows and doors (wrapped plywood fixed to frame) is there anything we shouldn't do from the following: internal insulation, service voids, first fix plumbing and electrics, MVHR install, UFH pipework, potentially also boarding and screeding if we get that far? Easier to stick a temporary door in for access?

Thanks - back on my list now! Would you recommend the system?

Thanks, that's great - puts it into the something to think about later category and takes an item off the list for now!

Hi all, just a quick one to decide whether it's worth spending any time further researching/pursuing quotes etc. What sort of money is in a Tesla Powerwall or similar (Powervault etc)? We have 4kW solar PV but may later up-spec that and in the medium term will be getting an EV to charge.

Is there any particular reason why this Gerband membrane (https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/gerband-sd-control-airtight-membrane/) is inferior to Intello Plus or should for some reason be avoided? It's £97 compared to c.£230 for the same size from UK suppliers.

Won't be seen as screeding over the top. Only issue would be potential impact on the sole plate around it if it's oversized? Will need to speak with kit company to see if that causes a problem.

Thanks - so dimensions/positions need to be bang on?