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Thanks (and thanks Declan), do you mind sharing rough m2 costs for the wall?

They say 40-60mm across the width and 45mm top to bottom. I'll just go with the 10mm either side then, cheers.

Thanks again, will try and sketch something up.

Was it straightforward for your joiners to fit? I'm looking at roof openings just now and advice on another thread is not to go with the Velux standard as 10mm either side works - what did you do (and how did you make it as airtight etc. as the rest of your windows)?

Thanks Gus. The wall will be faced onto my neighbour (I'm higher) so largely looking for the cheapest option that he can face as he likes, though there's a bit of come and go on it. My house 1200mm from boundary. Can't go more than 250mm onto his side to allow for access so a narrower option preferred but if it's too expensive I'm happy to go with something bulkier and dig out more at my end. 25m long, 1600mm height - so 40m2 plus whatever is required beneath ground. Ground largely fine - has been dug out for months and doesn't look like it's going anywhere so largely just a boundary wall to be backfilled and drained as appropriate.

Thanks - I had seen your threads previously and was thinking of that and will give them a shout tomorrow for costs. Do you know if there's a rule of thumb for how far below ground you need to go?

I have 1600mm to retain across my boundary. Looking at two potential options: concrete lego blocks like these or one of the or one of the pre-cast interlinked blocks that's filled with concrete or aggregate like Stepoc. I'm struggling to find much info on the founds required for either. Can anyone advise on the width and depth of footings likely required, and the depth of wall likely required below ground? I've a structural engineer but he's not responsive enough to look at the options and find me a solution so I need to find the best one to him for him to run the calcs and give me the design. Thanks

How did you do it John?

Is it just your standard 10mm all the way round for your Velux window openings or something different? I've allowed 50mm additional (width) and 45mm (height) as per fitting guide but cant' really see any benefit from the additional gap (or find anyone who seems to do this going by screwfix forums and the like).

A similar experience - could have thrown a blanket over Ecowin, Nordan and Rationel on price. Had discounted Russell Timbertech by final quote time as windows were a fair bit cheaper but doors more expensive and they were much the same but with lower u-values.

Thanks - everything a compromise I guess. We'd have about 20mm from top of the screed to underside of plasterboard. As above, it's a programming/cashflow issue and whether it's easier to rattle the first fixes and acoustic insulation done or UFH and screed - as it stands leaning more to the former particularly as we may be waiting on confirmation of any RHI replacement before getting ASHP in. We're going with LVT flooring which I think will be one of the last things that goes in so should hopefully work okay.

Looks great Patrick - glad you are making progress.

Any reason why you shouldn't put your stud walls up before pouring your screed?

Thanks - had done some reading elsewhere and been minded to do just that so have them in separate ducts 200mm apart.

I can have it milled free through family - the joys of old men not wanting to spend any of their retirement with their wives.

Thanks - looks very good. We've a Cemfloor supplier about half an hour away and I've asked for a quote.

Are trades issues exacerbated by Brexit? In the west of Scotland which has historically had less reliance on foreign labour (but had local labour sucked south when labour markets are tight - less so now due to Covid) everyone is busy and making good money but you can still largely get trades in if you're a decent client.

Thanks - so 60mm to be on the safe side meaning at least 50mm on the high side is advisable?

Are they all much the same (so your local concrete man can sort it) or should we be looking for one of the proprietary brands? I see there are some which require a minimum thickness of only 25mm above pipework; is there any particular reason why you'd be looking for 50mm if you could get away with 41mm in that case?

Noted, thanks - just looking to test whether there's a big margin that may be better in my pocket than a merchant's.

That's a (potentially very interesting) thought I hadn't had... will look into it, thanks.

I can potentially get access to enough cut poplar trees which, as I understand it, can make for pretty good and nice looking cladding when thermally modified. I just can't seem, through some google searching, to find someone who would do the thermal modification or an approximate cost for this work. Any ideas?

Turns out I have a wee bit more room to play with and could just about get away with 25mm foil-faced PIR instead but itwould leave only 13mm tolerance for the plasterboard (i.e. between the bottom of the floor joist and top of the screed) which I'd rather not be paying to have trimmed. Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks, saves me a job!

Is that priced with Ultimate or somewhere online?