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I suppose if the tape works on the inside join then you don't need it outside. Belts and braces approach suggests to do it but there's a time and cost impact too. I've read that you don't need a VCL if you have MVHR. We're putting additional insulation in so makes sense to get the foil faced stuff and do it however. Definitely sounds like a fit and forget type job. Now go work out how much tape required!

How did you get on? Tape both externally (different take needed?) and internally? Any other SIPs kitters taped their joins?

Looks good and can see where you are coming from - there's an SME developer in south west Scotland that only does small developments in the local vernacular and whose sites I love but I'd take a streetscape like the one below before it: There's some custom build pilots that aim to do that but not sure how they're progressing (Igloo, now owned by Aviva, have a site in Plymouth which is the main one that I remember from looking before, where you could choose from shell designs by a panel of architects then choose from within approved palate of materials and configure however you liked internally).

While some houses are ugly they're still far more interesting than an identikit volume developer house. I love the idea of having random designs, shapes and sizes in an Almere like fashion but it sounds a real pity that the development company are constraining supply in such a way that only a certain type of household can build and only a certain type of build will be possible to meet mortgage market valuation requirements.

ASHP on pre-cast insulated slab (0.11 W/mK). The 'green' system is for 150mm. Think you're probably right on the costs but trying to shave costs where possible - every £296 adds up.

Interesting info - so what should be used for sound insulation in posi joists then?

It has "internal humidity control" if that's the same thing...

Unit will be in the loft. Not really a problem getting to it. I've no idea what manual boost does it when it'd be required?

Apparently the amber and red systems need wider pipe centres making them less efficient and requiting higher heat input to achieve the same temperatures. No further info than that.

Looking at my quote the difference between the standard radial ducting kit and the premium one is £559. It also includes optional extras for a wall mounted controller (£53) and 5x boost switches (at £30 a pop). Any thoughts on whether paying for the upgrades and extras are worth it?

I have been quoted £2,452 for the green and £2,156 for the amber system which uses a wider pipe system, with the blurb saying green will "save money on running costs". Any idea on the likely payback period for the £296 difference or other thoughts?

I've asked the partitioning firm (which employs roughing joiners) - they're doing boarding and framing. The current plan is for the cabinet makers who will do the window reveals and potentially stairs and kitchen units to fit them. Then I guess we'd need another finishing joiner for doors, skirting etc. Will look at streamlining!

Thanks. One for this week's list.

I thought it was separate trades. I've got a partitioning firm doing some framing then cabinet makers lined up for the internal reveals - haven't yet spoke to a finishing joiner as that's a way down the line at hanging doors (I think!).

Just fitting. Joiners will do internal reveals etc. Front and rear doors standard sizes, sliders 3000x2100. 3G aluclad.

Not sure where to start with getting quotes from fitters (any recommendations for fitters in west central Scotland welcome) for 11 windows totalling 25.66m2, three doorsets (including front door with side panelling, sliding door and rear door) totalling 12.84m2. Any ballpark estimates - I've had one quote so far provided by a potential supplier for more than £5k, not including any plant required and ancillaries, which instinctively sound very expensive?

So my partner is smitten with a facing brick that has a durability rating of F1. We're in the west of Scotland. I'm presuming that's not a good idea - can't see anything bar an Ibstock brochure advising against that only cills and below DPC should be F2 though. Any thoughts?

Any recommendations for next best (that does Scotland)?

Thanks. First floor is largely vaulted and we'd designed the walls to be 2450mm above chipboard.

Just about to go into detailed design and engineering with (SIPs) kit manufacturer.

Our very friendly and in no way difficult or nitpicking building control officer has asked us to prove that the planned deck path/accessible entrance 'is robust for the lifetime of the building. Any thoughts on how to do this, or my thoughts are just to change decking to 'paving slabs', throw down some cheap ugly ones on the frame then replace with decking after sign-off?

The contractor doesn't do the mat design though - that's our responsibility. We've agreed they'll approve it in advance but in the meantime it looks like someone needs to sign off this certificate.

We don't have the kit up yet... would we just need to lift the full first floor up 50mm or is there some other solution?

Thanks both, given my lack of skill I'll rule that out. Any alternatives?

Anyone got any experience of this? I see it's required of the principal contractor which I guess will be me... piling mat to be specified by piling contractor and designed by engineer with groundworks carrying out the works. Can/should I try and pass on responsibility for this to the groundworker? Is it onerous, will it be covered by insurance or require this separately etc?