jamiehamy

And the shower.

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Okay, tiling done. Only two bathrooms to go, but that's us ready for when we move in (planning March). Hex tiles I cut with a diamond grinder. I taped the line I wanted, scored lightly with the grinder right along before then grinding slowly each hex. I used mosaic mats which helped keep them flat nicely. I've got some Ct1 to put round the shower tray and paint two walls, then do a final fit/tighten on everything. This has been quite simply the toughest job of the whole build by far. Looks easy but got to think in 4 dimensions almost, cutting,mixing,laying,grouting ,sealing... We're pretty pleased with it tho.

We have a section at 4.5m at 600mm centres. As per above, not as solid as I want, but no discernable sag.

Obviously can't zoom in but it looks like the trimmer, which takes the ends of two whole joists, could literally be supported buy only a couple of nails. Again, can't see properly but the tops of the joists may not be flush with the rest at that point. I might be getting a bit hypothetical but that 'problem' could have been sorted by using the floor screwing to help bring the joists up a few mm which would be the source of the extreme bounce. The bounce being the floor boards flexing, not the joists (the two potentially offering little support at that end). As an experiment, could you try propping under the chimney area directly below? And seeing if that localised support solves the problem before taking anything out? Some 4x2, osb on the plasterboard to spread weight and some packers to tighten it in? If locals liked propping sorts it, you will have confidence before anyone takes up any flooring.

I bought two trolleys from Aldi and just screw on osb to suit what I'm carrying. Although that's only for inside. They have carried our 200kg bath without a grumble and probably more in tiles. My friends kids loved racing them when their dad borrowed it...! Used them for Windows too, a godsend!

When I did ours I nailed them initially but didn't feel they were tight enough hence coach bolting. Difference when I bolted them in tight was noticeable. @readiescards. Any down lighters nearby you could use to try get a glimpse?

I'd be interested to know how the strong back was afixed to each joist, not clear in pic.

We used square edge for the upstairs part. Make sure you order the right size and don't get caught out with 2440x1220 boards (rather than 2400x1200) which will not tie in with 600mm centres.

I would confirm the 'plumbness' of the door before you go any further. Vertical and horizontal. If nothing else it's better than assuming - either use a laser line or a checked long bead - I say checked before I sadly found out after 3 frames and a lot of headscratching that one of my short beads was not true - which explained why I had a lot of problems (I ended up buying a small cross line laser early that was to be for the tiling, made it ten times easier if anyone else is doing this)! And check the level of the floor across the threshold too. Also check the hinges have been morticed uniformly - just in case. Best have a firm confirmation of all the above before going on any further (I suspect they will all be fine tho). If it is the floor, if you have the laser you could try work out just how much out of plumb it is - if you want to know.

We're booked to visit Eigg for two nights in a few weeks!

Or a no. Our planner said that he gets so many applications with little supporting information against the planning criteria or local plan. In his case if they were difficult or marginal and they ran out of time, they usually were refused - they went with a start point of yes, buy if they were hard to justify and they didn't have time they were justified in refusing. Our design statement went into all the various criteria and the local plan - which the planner said made his job much easier as we had interpreted it properly and fairly. So if there is a big queue of work, you can do a lot to make a planners life easier. Could be worth reviewing the application to make sure it covers what the planners need and adding if needed?

Yup, I've experienced this! Bought a load of Phillips reduced at homebase. Two are already gone! Thought it was just me!

Okay, I've been putting this off for too long and need to get stuck into it next week to get the first bathroom complete. I've done the walls and fairly happy with the result (The inset to be finished shortly). However, the hex mosaics are troubling me slightly. They are to go on the raised area outlined in red. They are stone. What is the best way to cut them? I have one of these https://www.rubi.com/en/dv-200-1000-electric-cutter-r104 but a trial finds that they are too small really and prone to cracking at the edge. Should I use my angle grinder with diamond wheel in a shallow bath? Will be slow going as I need to trim at least one edge of 'tiles'. How should they be laid to get them as flat as possible? I have mosaic mats - however they are bigger than the 'tile' - and the edges are like the blockbusters board, so should I trim them all slightly small before applying to the back of the tiles and then try lay like normal tiles ensuring they interlock with the right gaps? How do I ensure they a re properly flat and not like the rocky road to Dublin? What order? I'm assuming best to start at the front (nearest the camera) and take my straight edge from that. It's all fairly square I think but any run off would be hidden mostly behind the bath. Trowel - Any special trowel for these ones? Should I aim for a thinner bed for mosaics? I think it's an 8mm notched trowel I'm using at the moment. Adhesive - I'm using BAL Rapid FLex Fibre plus rather than pre-mixed - Topps advised this is best for a large floor area of mosaics. Anything else worth considering or bearing in mind? Hints, tips, pics or encouragment welcome! Thanks, Jamie Thanks, Jamie @Nickfromwales - tagging you as per other thread somewhere else!

I concur - it's the quick and easy solution that causes more problems than it solves. They do that on sandstone tenements up here to stop moisture penetrating, but it always gets in and if it's been waterproofed, never gets back out causing more untold misery. The other sin is to re-point the walls using cement (rather than a lime mix) - which does the same - moisture in never gets out. Def worth finding out if it's the pots holding water (very likely) - when we got ours fixed they guy put a 'Chinaman's bunnet' on it to let most of the water run off before it even got to the pot - but might not be the look you want!

I think it depends on the degree of the change. If you are just changing from 2g to 3G but the same style, opening mechanism etc, they might not be too bothered. Worst case, it would be an amendment to Warrant later on down the line. The key thing to demonstrate is that they comply with the regs - which if your 2g did in the submission, then 3G will. Overall, it's really down to a discussion with your BCO - most small changes (like internal layout if non structural, kitchen, bathroom layout, stairs etc) will be covered by an amendment to warrant towards the end - but if there are significant changes around the structure of the building or construction method, wall/roof build up etc, they may ask for a fresh BW application to be submitted. There is no hard and fast rules - our BCO is very reasonable with this stuff - others less so.

I'll dig out pics when back home but our floor joists are Posi Joists. For our upstairs sitting room I wanted 300mm centres but the designer insisted 600mm would be fine. In practise I wish I'd stuck to my guns as the floor doesn't feel as solid as I wanted it. Don't get me wrong, it's acceptable, especially as it's carpeted but there is some small movement detectable. However our joists are hung from the top chord only - the lower is not attached - and we have acceptable, albeit not perfect, performance. I do recall the designer telling my most issues with bounce are due to installation...! I think I've said this before that when I coach bolted the string back in twice to each joist, and it made quite a difference. Anyway, in terms of solution, how far are you prepared to go @readiescards? If you are able to strip the ceiling you probably have a few options from fiddling with joist hangars, to doing some form of webbing onto the joists to stiffen to possible adding additional joists.

These last few months, and probably for the next 12 at least, my life consists of going to work, coming home and working on the house then going to bed - then going to work... and repeat. Pretty much everything else has come to a halt. Very few social calls and even my hair isn't getting cut as often! . #metoo! Lol. I'm with you brother! I'm now not working either so at house practically every day now! Two bedrooms (plaster and paint) and 2.5 bathrooms to go, something I'll be pestering @Nickfromwalesabout soon when I can face it!

Beautiful! Well done!

I'm highly allergic to cats according to the doctor. We have two... ? we just planned the utility and have spaces for the food and litter near the extract vent which will hopefully not only eliminate any smells but helps me - I'm always a wee bit blocked which is probably the cats

I was pottering about tonight waiting on Ikea to not turn up (THANKS ikea) and enjoying walking on the carpet without shoes . Most areas will be carpeted and we chose a pretty thick pile and good underlay to make it feel as cosy and soft as possible. It struck me that we couldn't have had that if we went for UFH. A friend has UFH and carpet and the carpet feels very hard and not the feel we wanted. I have no issue with UFH - I just felt it was one complexity I wasn't confident handling on our first build and with the carpets, was the right decision for us. Worth bearing in mind. J

5.one for the light. Two to be used by you and Rollo and two being charged. Rarely will you both run out of juice at any one time. We operate as a pair and 4 was perfect (we had lecky for lights ages ago). You'll get into the habit of good battery discipline and never run out of charged batteries. We're running Bosch cordless and they are cracking, go for ages and charge quickly

You mean you don't do handstands in the shower?!

When you ask which is more durable, is the Alu Clad option a timber framed window? A benefit of ALu Cladding on timber is that it offers a degree of protection and required minimal maintenance over the long term (as well as a visual difference). Timber is very durable regardless, but will require to be looked after. Alu Cladding has a quite different look - arguably more modern. I agree with @le-cerveau, indeed, if we do another build, I'll probably go down the UPVC route (With or without alucladding). Whilst timber is lovely, if you paint it, really, I see little point on going for timber if you can't see it. We have bog standard UPVC (1.6) in our flat - in the 5 years they have been in I've done nothing more than wipe with a damp cloth and they look as good as the day they went in.

(I missed this earlier!) Polar opposite from ours - I was pretty cynical and waiting for it to balls up and paid close attention to the whole process. Delivery was smooth as anything - told in advance,, phone call in the morning and turned up bang on time. When they turned up, I asked when they picked it up - they said that morning - everything leaves from the factory and is co-ordinated to that the first delivery is at the back (obviously didn't happen with yours!). They don't move any units once loaded - the whole back of the truck comes off at the depot and the driver takes an empty back down south. Packing wise, not a single thing was damaged. Apparently everything was manufactured the day before (near Hull no less). I even found the pack they sent with all the units, plans and notes pretty handy. And I liked the week polystyrene 'thing' they sent up to put doors on if you had to take them off. Oh - and the 'free' worktop, tap and sink to be installed temporarily until the Quartz worktops came - a nice touch. Re: the foil faces on the tower units, I agree on this - ours is chalk white (matt) so not as noticable but it's not good for the price. Anyways, we're getting ready to order the bar and utility room - I wonder if it'll be as smooth second time round?!