makie
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Everything posted by makie
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If it's done properly you will be fine, lead is obviously the best in terms of quality but EPDM will work fine.
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Not if done correctly it won't. You can buy it to size so there is no joints
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Help - Does this roof look right?
makie replied to dms100's topic in Lofts, Dormers & Loft Conversions
They used tile flashings on the roof. Big giveaway is the bottom flashing is a bendable metal -
Looks like a copper based felt, not sure when it was first used but have seen it used recently
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Phone your local scrap yards and see what they are offering. The prices change all the time so don't expect it to be the same as when you ask if you take it in later. You might also need to make an account with them so make sure and ask them what details/documents you need to bring. (It's this way in Scotland)
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Lead roll ridge v. conventional ridge capping slates.
makie replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Yeah the mitres are the point in which the hip meets the ridge. Most lead workers do most of the shaping out of place as it's much easier and less likely to break any slates/tiles. The copper holds the lead down and the lead is more for show so that it looks the same, sometimes people use stainless steel instead of copper. -
Lead roll ridge v. conventional ridge capping slates.
makie replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
An old-fashioned lead worker will boss it, no one really does it now unless it is a listed building or heritage site. Can make money quicker doing the welding which is the way most leadworkers have went. -
Lead roll ridge v. conventional ridge capping slates.
makie replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
The mitres will need welding if they use the proper code of lead. -
Lead roll ridge v. conventional ridge capping slates.
makie replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
No one is going to come in to spend maybe an hour on welding unless you are going to massively overpay them. I've been working with lead for 13 years and dressing/bossing is not something you will learn in a couple days/weeks. You need code 6 upwards for lead ridges. I highly suggest not using lead or getting a professional in for it. -
Most tiles are like this just now, it's down to manufacturing shutting down during the first lockdown.
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Most architects in Scotland like everything to be done traditionally, if they can they will almost always specify Scotch slate on the roof. Just had a look at them and they don't look like they are made for a thicker slate anyway so that might be it. I would imagine they work well with Spanish but all my slating jobs are done with architects instructions so doubt I will ever use them.
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Jesus my head was pickled for that response..... been a long day hah. Ignore it.... Anyway it's just not done, I would imagine it is down to architects and building control not wanting it more than anything
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We don't batten roofs for slate in Scotland so they don't work that well up here.
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Reclaimed is fine is Scotland! (it's the only way to get Scottish slates these days) Cupa H3's are good for our climate, especially if you are open. Brazilian is usually bad but if you get a premium quarry they can be good. Burton roofing in Livingston stock Cupa. Direct Slating in Bonnybridge stock most kinds but specialize in reclaimed (Scotch, Welsh and Westmoreland) Cummings and Sons is in Perth so local and have a good selection - http://www.roofslatescotland.co.uk/
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Dry Hip and Dry Ridge problem on new build
makie replied to Tomfromsurrey's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
There is support trays there but they are cheap pish. The bottom ridge is also a blockend, you can see it in the first picture. The problem is that they have used too many battens underneath. Its stopping the clips from going down properly. 100% tried to do the hip in the rain but it's a site and they are on poor money so I'm not shocked. -
Not a problem, best of luck
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Speak to Burton Roofing, they should be able to get them easily as they are owned by Cupa
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Never trust those sites or any review based sites! (unless it is council run) it's easy to have people you know fake the reviews. I'm confused by the rubber stuck to the tiles. I would recommend taking a picture when you can because if it is how I'm picturing it, it will leak.
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Where did you find this roofer? Were they recommended? Can you take pictures of the flat roof joining the pitched roof?
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1.5m is fine with code 4. It's the max recommended by the LSA.
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I'm doing a school in Edinburgh right now and we are using Spirtech, it's only lasted 4/5 months during the lockdown and is now needing replaced. £200 odd a roll and it doesn't last long with our rain and UV
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Slate roof repairs - hall hooks etc
makie replied to DC5's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
If it's slated properly they don't rattle on a vertical. This happens when the people doing the roof claim to be roofers and don't know how to make the slates swing so you can get a fixing at the irons. -
If you want to do it properly.
