scottishjohn

we are going to have to disagree on the interpretation of the rules -I do not believe it was altered because of a risk If it did increase the risk ,then they would BAN extra earthing ! -where as they have said its not required for some cases and yet for others still want it that is not the same as your interpretation of an extra risk by having extra bonding . I will take my chance and bond everything as we have done in the past

but if bath drain is made from brass --then cannot be be a bad idea to earth it . the wife might want rid of you and throw you an electric fire to cuddle when you are in the bath ? when in doubt earth cannot be wrong you only need a seat belt when you crash !

no point in continuing this if you really believe what you are saying .

that is the definition of social housing ,which has been proved to not work and spawns gang culture etc so unless you going to have built in policeman in each block -you will be replacing the tower blocks that they have been pulling down for the last 20 years

instead of mains connection or as well?

I can say that in scotland they cannot string lines over your ground without your permission --- Ihave a pylon close to boundary when house was built --then later they wanted to put cables on both sides of pylon they had to agree with me that it was ok -cost them £8.5k 30 years ago for that . I could not stop them --they would go to government and get it that way ,if i just refused but they have to pay and agree ti with you FIRST

you could just prop them up in 2 places so they are out of the way for pump+address other problems later?

free full strength heroin for them all --problem solved

don.t know if i would call them "plain " last ones i looked at were £2k upwards

not suggesting wood is buried in ground ,but just a pad stone on top of simple slab won,t do -it will need a big lump of concrete under it to spread the load and slab will not really be load bearing for the main house structure . that my guess anyway

think it will have to more like founds for a portal frame building , deep post holes then slab poured after. this is what your S/E will work out

a question on earthing rods --what if you are on bedrock ? do you make a big hole and fill it with concrete with earthing rod in it?

I was assuming you would make a suitable "sump " in the slab where you were going to put the safe and have a big cube of concrete in that area--maybe in garage ? so not in heated slab certainly easier than the way I had to do it garages for storage MOT certs,when we had such things and safe for money+scratch card for petrol stations in the past .you could end having to have a safe that had to be rated for 10k --and an above ground one for that was stupid expensive and hardly hidden big compressor and concrete breaker and saw something like these https://www.safeoptions.co.uk/home-safes/under-floor-security-safes

maybe should have been considered when slab was going it --and fit a floor safe ?

might it be cheaper to run all pipes in an insulated duct ,so only insulating them individually where they spur off to things?

so if this roof is going to be a flat one ,then one would presume its a GRP skinned type tin roof needs a bigger slope or it won,t work correctly so if it is osb +grp and no insulation --you could easily get condensation on the OSB inner skin -- not a good idea I know cos that how my garage was built --hellish hot in summer and cold as hell in winter-I got seconds +co insulation and jammed it up between the rafters -- much more civilised now and no freezing of tap in there ,then bursts in garage in winter the taper insulation does not give a big slope ,certainly much less than you would need with a tin one and cuts out condensation problem something to ponder

attached to the main house would my guess why it has to have an insulated roof

you want some of those neck;ace charges that the SAS use fordoors and walls -fit them run away and press the button .LOL

they will pass it when sent for certification -- and yes TUV will have as many holes init as "CE" ratings and"kite marks " local fire brigade would not accept a TUV approved fire escape ladder --as they had not tested that ladder them selves-so that shows what value there is is TUV

any big company employs "bean counters" and that,s where it goes wrong mercedes--for many years their quality has been dropping --then when you look closer you see why wiring looms --designed in germany --made in china -- and not enough checks on actual things to see if the material spec is what was specified once it gets in manufacturing merc suffered for years with this type of problem - citreon was the same -- wiring loom designed using certain type of wire and connectors --but came in substandard alternatives ,causing problems long term,only coming to light out side warranty period and its years before its picked up and suppler changed VW central door locking motor --£28 from polland,where it is actually made for VW --£95 from VW dealer so to think that ALL parts of your window system will be made in germany is a little naive. all you can do is hope they do enough batch testing . I remember someone complaining about door handles corroding and maker giving some waffle that he was not servicing them right !! give me a fxxking break --who the hell services door handles made from marine quality S/S they will never tarnish bet my last breath they were made in or from asian s/s

YOUR electrician should know what needs to be done to be ready for meter and if your meter box is suitable -could be you one thats not meant to be stud up on its own in the middle of a field -needs to be fixed to a wall? speak to your electrician

nothing inside to mount the meter + an isolator switch ? usually they want a nice big area of wood to screw things too

replace full length that goes under house with modern plastic -encase in concrete and another manhole at other side ? no doubt someone will comment if this is allowable

yep a a bit of Archaeology required on your part

and you don,t need a crane to drop gabions in place