scottishjohn

If its just to see how much of a differential before and after flap -then one either side of flap would show that I suspect --and cost nothing to make and as you say if you use something without correction baro pressure-itwill be hard to compare one day to another

dare i say it --a good use for a themal mass to smooth things out

If you like home made and cheap --make yourself a water manometer basically a pipe set at 45 degrees with a u shape at bottom washer piping on a board- it is also self calibrating to actual atmospheric pressure as it is open at top -- any sensor you use will not do that unless you have another one measuring actual baro metric pressure all the time used to have a commercial made one on my spray both --cos you needed to adjust input fan to extract fan to give very ,very small pressure difference from outside --so you could not suck in crap or WD40 spray,car polish dust etc-- in the air in the workshop which could contaminate the paint surface--too much and you pollute workshop with paint fumes an altimeter from an aircraft would work as well -

where are you in uk edit --stupid question --me not reading you post correctly --too early

the first thing you should be spending on is sorting the drafty leaky fabric of the house out then how you heat it is secondary what i will say is GSHP is not going to be best option in uk --cost will be far more exspenive than ASHP GSHP only has an adsvantage in very cold dounctris like canada where you get months of -15c and the fact that the ground will stay a constant temp makes the gshp COP rate a winner but not in our mild climate but neither should be used with a poor building

maybe just me but anything bituminous is made from oil --so you sure it will have no long term effect on foam? can,t see how it can be totally solvent free? acryilic based stone chip as used on cars --is solvent free and paintable the test to me would be if you can paint it if it don,t like it and melts --then it has a some solvent me i will be having windows just covering it and overlapping stone work by small amount+ flexible sealer at join

maybe if people could name the makes that have shrunk --could it be a price related quality problem

I would dispute that --they seem to go out of the way to put up objections to one off sites telling us what our house should look like -- and fall over backwards for big builders who cut corners at every chance

and then they do not leak check all the houses --so not a fair comparison to self builder would it be unfair to suggest brown envelopes changing hands

look here -- not slow considering its self build nearly speed is always going to be down to contractor--plenty of slow TF frame builds on here and TF will need lots more sound proofing

seconds? not saying you bought seconds --but maybe you been given them

If sound is important then ICF with concrete would seem better than sips --but ask suppliers for values and maybe triple glazed asit looks like you have quite large window area in that bedroom? are you self build or turn key --? as you mention speed of build as being a factor - the biggest thing that will hold the job up is YOU not getting spec correct to start with and asking for things to be changed again your chosen suppler /builder should be able to give accurate times sending plans to a couple of sips and ICF companies should give you prices and time scales if you are going to leave building to them

ICF under build?

If it did work then cutting it into logs would be much harder when it was dry -- professioinals cut it down and block it at same time because of this , and more surface area ontheends of all the blocks make it dry quicker as well

black is high organic matter.which is what you want to grow things it would become peat in 1000years+ if it was permanently wet and then it would be brown not black you could probably mix it up to 50% with sand and it would still be very good soil and free draining

tree rats

and i warranty it will never be as good as this stuff--black as coal

always the same when you looking for it -you can,t find it and its crap or it costs a fortune I got the other small problem 100cum+ of topsoil - the forest rubbish that has settled on my road over the last 50years its like black gold yes i can move it and dump it in the quarry --but what a waste need someone who needs it and will come and scrap the road and take it away --road is tarmac underneath the down side of not being close to a city

never triple glazing and a curtain or shutters like they used to fit 200 years ago ?

and maybe bond the steel container to the earthing rod as well?

a pro brickie team should be cleaning it up as they go thats why you employ pros

you will need to be seal the surface VERY well.more than one coat if its at all pourous - -cos the sixa flex will only have permanent bond to that sealing layer sixaflex will come away from dusty surface over time I have had sika come away from bare concrete over a long period so maybe a coat of cheap garage floor paint that will bond to lime floor first . I think i would want some mechanical fixing as well if only where there are door frames or ends of walls

the old saying "the quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten"

what he means is you could use best welsh slate at £100+ per sqM or concrete tiles at £10sqm same goes for all the other choices of kitchens, flooring etc etc also price quoted by builder will include labour a self build like @nod there will be no or very small labour costs apples +oranges

its a debateable point If you buy a house you buy land as well but for most purposes it is always meaning just the total cost to build the house -and not including the plot don,t agree borrowing costs are not part of house build