scottishjohn

the ramps in my garage have motors that can be wired either single or 3 phase ramp only need a 2hp motor so --so a single phase 2 hp is no problem I ,ll sell you one if you like !! 2 poster hoffman 3ton

how can you be so grumpy ? you got a site most would give both testicles to have nice and flat + a pond !! you are out of the ground now .so most bobby traps will have been found--plain sailing now what more do you want!!!

unless your going to use SIPS roof panels you still going to have to insulate a "bison" beam roof .. we have a flat bison beam roof on a petrol station --it has 4" of polystyrene laid on top of hot poured tar.then roofing felt +chips villains tried to break in through what they thought was felt roof --got a shock when they hit the concrete best of it was i did not know for 6 months until was up there cleaning out gutters found this big hole --but it never leaked inside --the hot tar sealed it all very well there are other ICF roof systems like the velox one which is made from preformed wood crete http://velox-systems.co.uk/products look under ceilings and floors or you can go for a poly type see https://econekt.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/ECONEKT.-ICF-Elements-Brochure2.pdf loads of different types available

as it has a vent to atmosphere to allow in air --that has to be prime suspect for the smell if you get a situation where air comes out rather than going in . I assume it has air admission valve on the vent pipe, same as you have on toilet waste system--maybe a bit sticky? certainly i will have no problem in siting it well away from buildings

how expensive is expensive?

cost I think no need for cranes and definitely hurricane +fire proof

any body heard of this before. watch the video makes me wonder if you could not do the same thing with gyproc "jumbo drywall framing =cement board panels??

then you could do it the spider tie way ,if you like . whole house is a nuclear bunker,then wrap it in insulation

hoping to get it started and water tight

slightly different --but the same I see very few ICF build diagrams for founds that include any sort of DPC that makes a complete break in the wall durisol say use water proof concrete below grade-- not sure i would believe concrete supplier than added correct amount and no way to tell most icf say nothing and with build regs wanting you to build house low --for disabled ramp etc surely there should be some mechanical dpc somewhere in the bottom layers -- seems a bit simple to assume the eps is going to be perfect on its own or maybe you just have to use complete passiv house type eps raft under slab to be sure and then stick on tanking ,as though its below grade , and join with under slab VPc then up the wall a foot or so above grade to be bullet proof. or maybe i,m just too anal

this solvis max system was what i wanted when i first did UFH --but no british agent --so it never happened- love the way you can change the heat input from gas to oil burner at top .or any other heat input as well

I have to say it works very well -- its KEE triple tube system and is very responsive to ambient temp changes --floor can go from cold to heating room in under 1 hour,which is good in some ways as the climate here is so changeable day to day . maybe i shouldn,t be thinking of a mega thick slab -but maybe thinner and get quicker temp change -too many variables ,GRRR that is a common complaint of people around here ,takes long time for floor to change then wife opens up widows to cool the house down -- that just does not work for me --heating it up too much to then let it out--maybe be better to on other side of the curve

I was getting far too technical i fitted the UFH to both floors , 800meters of tubing routed into floors +covered with 6mm ply to put back some strength in floor,not sure you would get away with that with more modern wood frame house as joists are alot thinner I did notice that the upper was not on as much --due to convection from lower I presume but in new house i won,t be heating up stairs directly anyway ,possibly, may even go for a concrete upper floor as well -- all depends on what system i finally decide on for house build

I am not saying you are not correct ,but the current UFH ,which idid by routing the chipboard floors and fitting pipeshas run at 45c water temp at mixerbefore manifolds for last 17 years and no downside as far as i can tell

I must be a very tender person --cos i want room temp when sitting at 23c or i get chilled Yes i know every 1c you up temp by is 7% extra costs approx on old style house --but that the idea of very well insulated house--so it don,t change

I did this zone areas thing with my current ufh i fitted years ago ,but failure of zone valves and people not closing doors actually made it a waste of time and if going for mvhr ,then with gaps under the doors you need for air flow it would be a pointless complication thats my view anyway , I got fed up of replacing valves ,so just removed the heads as they failed and opened up the actual valves --seems to work just as well

question ? if using gas boiler for UFH --why regulate it down as far as 40c I understand the bleed to make sure return is not too low

I think it will be how much do you want to spend ? can see daylight between roof in some of those pictures... single skin tin roof will get condensation on inside it its warmer in that out. and then there is the floor --does it have a dpc below it? how much heating you going to put in it .

someone that will spend the time to paint all the edges and use some sort of paint /sealer etc under every fixing. and use butyl tape on all overlaps --so when sheets move it don,t wear off the coating

but there is a lot of gravity around to make use of, anywhere in the world. same goes for tidal power --trouble is the "money men " want returns quickly which is why the wind farms with government subsides was so popular and pushed through by the bent pocket lining political machines of most countries, that will change when money from governments stop same goes for EV cars instead of hydrogen engines or lpg conversions for all diesel vehicles in cities -all buses _taxis have space under vehicle for tanks . they know how much energy required for a day --could have had clean air in cites 30 years ago we have been able to convert std engines both diesel +petrol to lpg for last 40 years - south African diamond mines have been running lpg cat D8 for 4o+ years -only solution then to get the power and not kill all the workers with exhaust fumes so its not technology that is missing --just some way for the banks +investors to make huge amounts money out of it . nuclear power is dead ,cos of cost of recycling + clean up now if someone can make a BIG gun and shoot barrels of waste into the sun economically .LOL

quite normal in big stone walled houses-that door farme is either in middle of wall or offset to one side or the other. builders choice . Ok , 140 mm lining kit +20mm mouldings both sides usual choice do it right or do it cheap you can seldom get both how much can 180mm x 40mm oak board be in reality ?? If you wanted cheap should n,t have gone for oak

the frame for the door doesn,t need to be same as wall- unless you fitting a180mm thick door !!!! put normal size frame in the centre of the wall+plaster up to it both sides ? or spend the money on big section oak --wider it is the thicker it will need to be

"I do wish that plain English would be used as the base standard for documents like this, as it would make understanding what on earth the writer was trying to convey to readers a great deal simpler." I feel the reason is simple --like politicans --don,t want to be specific as that could be used against them if they siad anything definative they have to leave plenty of wriggle room to back track as required

If you worried about sound then maybe your walls should be thicker anyway ?.maybe 50mm thicker wall full length still gives you more usable space than a swinging door . It is injmy mind as well for easy wheel chair access as well or use foam back plaster board ?- like I said you make it work at design stage