scottishjohn

if you have the option of mains drains --take it your own septic tank or sewage treatment plant needs REGULAR maintainance and emptying from time to time --all cost money so main drains if possible soakway drainage fields block as can reed beds

if making a disabled w/c then look at regs for that all depends how nasty they going to be there are 2 types full disabled and ambulent toilet your sizes wont, comply for full dasabled check the regs 2m x 2m from memory wheel chair must be able do complete turn round in there you will find pklans on there for what is acceptable .or got tywfords and look at disability w/c washroom kit --there is a plan on there as well

how much flow is there in this as from plan i am guessing it goes underground at bottom of your plot. surely work out max flow then put a concrete/pvc culvet twice or 3 times that flow rate with a inspection chamber somewhere in case it gets blocked although would be much simpler if you could do a proper deal with neighbour lets face it he can see a nice little earner here,as you would if in his place

a good story for all to take notice of don,t skimp with foundations or weld mesh in them if any doubt on sub soil , also looks like age of house where no expansion joints required

looks more like the pebble dash has come loose - tap it with handle of a screw driver or something all over if it sounds hollow in places--then thats your answer strip off and rerender looks like ex-council house --most of them in DG have needed re -render by now looking how little window ledge sticks out of render --that would suggest someone has already put another coat on without removing original . which is what council would do -- penny pinching down there is no drip check as far as i can see --so that will make more likely to have water behind it-maybe even some damp on inside--all fixable

correct--just extend the pipe so its well above w/c pipe connection if you can

would never buy a house with shared access - not getting this sorted now will make it hard to sell later and certainly devalue it. which is why I,m trying to buy both plots --not just one --so i get control of everything to start with

don,t know about that but you could definately glue it on with a good PU adhesive --not sealer try a test on some spare bits if you need convincing something like sixaflex255 --used for bonding in car windscreens --that never lets go ,lots of other choices

been here and bought the T shirt you can make any agreement you want ,but if one of the nieghbours says they don,t have the money to repair --what you going to do ? would need something to written into the title deeds some how,same as you would do with shared septic tank --so if they don,t pay you can sell their house to get the money sounds bad i know --you can,t get blood out of a stone . or a neighbour you fell out with so you need a default position in the agreement that everyone understands and is enforceable without spending years in court arguing about whose car is damaging the road . if it is a possibility for council to take it on ,what ever it costs it will simpler. we had all these osrt of problems up here with new estates --builder built house --said hr would do the roads last to stop damage guess what --he went bankrupt so now council insists on all roads and services be complete before ANYBODY moves in. my problem was with an equestrian center who ran horseboxs up the road and damaged and never had the money to repair it tried blocking it --not allowed to --so If i got all that crap when it was only one other person --what would it be like with more!!

my rememberance of garage attached to house is full fire protection+vapour protection to house so will need alot more than that . will be double or triple layers of drywall fire board on ceiling and smoke barrier might be easier to build up divining wall like you would if it was join to another house sharing loft floor of garage must be lower then house to stop petrol on fire running in in you have a door +that will need to be fire proof --if you get mean BC go check regs

ouch--air pump i think

nope --no such thing --your planning is what it says it is anything else and your in trouble--so you want to change it --put in another application complete with updated plans etc

think you just said it all "demolish +replace"--to try to start changing it after it was got on appeal --sounds like problems

first stop is building control regs to see what is minimum insulation value on roof and walls ,and is there a dpc in floor+ walls of the building any conversion you make will have to comply with CURRENT requirements for a habitable dwelling -as it is a change of use ,you may even find that the roof structure will not pass for a dwelling if it was an agricultural building to start with .

I missed the costs of the units ? could you repost

wouldn,t have it as a gift -no stabilising bars going front to back from 4 bolt bases to spread load from bases £1000 brand new gives you a clue on the quality had enough garages +ramps and seen all the problems of ramps fitted to doubtful floors you start swinging on a g/box and it is easy for them to come loose from floor If you are going use that --then floor needs to be minimum 8" with lots of weld mesh and BIG bolts http://www.garageequipmentdirect.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d12.html look at second one down --"boston " that is actually a hoffmann under different name --and is same set -up as ones i have -you can swing on it all day and it won.t tip over

listening to the video. It don,t sound like its seen a grease gun in years and even with play in pins its worth greasing it EVERYDAY ,while its warming up in the morning, if you want it to last longer and if it had been done daily to start with it wouldn,t be a rattling now oil+ grease is the cheapest set of spanners you will ever buy

the advantage of a jcb is you can drive it on the road all depends how serious you want to get ,but a jcb can do most things

try telling HSE and your employees lawyer that if you have a worker with a back problem can,t think of any gearbox on a modern car that,s less than about 40-60kgs old viva was fine --not now they all FWD boxs with difs

£1000 can be seen working before you unbolt it to put in on your trailer not trying to put you off --but if you have the space +height i would go for 4poster with "wheel free" beams if i was having one ramp only

wait till you get to my age you just a boy 67 and starting to do a build this year --.LOL must be nuts!!

a manual handling course??? that means you won,t be lifting anything then --25kg If i am not mistaken as being the max for one man lift a bag of cement is 25kg I remember when a cement bag was twice that plenty of wheels +tyres that are more than that now

if you sticking to "thin insulation" better make sure its PIR --not eps -far better insulation value

buy a gorilla gripper for 8x4 boards one handed getting a bad back --will be with you for ever --I know so don,t tempt fate--its not the weight its the funny angles you twist to lift things https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/183430311050 myabe some cheaper if you hunt around If you doing plaster boarding single handed buy or rent one of these cheaper than 2 visits to the back man https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/201969018140

you can get up to 5hp single phase motors now but iwill be looking at a 3phase supply if possible for new build -for all my lathes ,millers ,welders etc but with modern invertor tig welders you don,t need 3 phase anyway --just i have a 375 amp synchro miller tig machine and the new units are much cheaper as well--you used to need 3phase to get good smooth welds at big amperages--not now with invertor