scottishjohn

what i have been told is that you can have up to 16kw per phase so a 3 phase supply you you have 48kw I have got as far as solar yet ,but that is what a solar supplier has told me i have a 100kva 3 phase supply,wel I WLL WHEN THEY GET ROUND TO FITTING A METER

that one is easy to sort go back to the way road tax used to be done along time ago was linked to power of vehicle and mi,eage travelled and thus the pollution volume what need is there for a 4.0 litre diesel bi turbo for an audi estate speed limit is 70 - a vw micro bus 1200cc with 18bhp will do that so the std 150bhp or more SUV is noot needed and should pay for it as for super cars if you can afford a 1000bhp super car then you can afford to pay for it

and thats wrong as well there is little incetive for them to be competitive with deals like that another rip off by the money men

apart from grid problems the main problem is that someone does not know how to do a deal --how can it be sense to pay the turbine company when they turn them off,because of too much wind or over production and pay them for the electric they are not producing needs to be put on a real commercial basis they make it and the grid pays for what they get --nothing more pumped storage is good -but again all that should be fully paid for by wind farms and not grants etc smooths out the electricity daily requirement If it don,t stack up that way --then it nots worth doing theo ne sure supply is tidal -- but too much investment at start to get the private commercail companies to go for it 2 tides a day --every day for ever when i bought my land part of it was very suitable for solar we talked about a deal -- all was well till they realised they would have to pay to upgrade the local substation cos it could not ake 3.3 mega watts form the site deal never went any further

grp will out last any other choice if it failed it was simply badly laid main reason for grp not working is damp under it to do it right you must use new osb below it and don,t let it get wet bfore apllying grp matting and resin

the most used things on my site are the 3t digger and the 3 ton dumper i could not have manged any of my project without it especially with the stone grab -it has made my jobs possible and you cannot overestimate how much time and energy it saves and how much one man can do apart from cost of extra help - especialy if you are an oldly like me on the mountainous site i have

unfortunately her wording would seem to only be for england --not the whole of the uk

If it as soft as he says and will half fill with water overn ight ,then you would have to dig a bit and shutter as you go and that will not be quick

If you want no joints in plumbing walls then uponor piping system is your best option bends are just made bylatying easy bends in the piping. you can get 90degree fittings if you want and change over fitting to copper or normal hep2 --what ever you wish to do you strech the pipe with a special tool and push it onto serated fitting with a collar which also gets streched -then in next minute or less it shrinks back onto the fitting - no way they will ever leak i was going to go that way when iwas going to do the whole build myself but age and infirmarty made that a non starter I have the miwaukee tool for doing that if you are interested rolls of pipe can be 100m long https://uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&ei=UTF-8&p=uponor+pipe&type=E210GB1494G0#id=83&vid=6c5044b14d120022e0c5ece74781b587&action=view

no not joking but the methods are still the same so for carpentary you won,t go far wrong following him your plans will show all the dimensional detail you need on wood sizes and quality type --c16 ,c24 etc and don,t expect to knock nails in modern wood with 2 hits like he does he has had 50 years doing it

the only thing that shouts at me from watching his videos is the rough sort of wood they use in the states could be the age of the videos ,but not a sign of any CLS type of timber

took alot of talking to get sepa to agree to NO soakaway field even with treatment plant they still wanted some sort of drainge field before it went to water course ,only the lack of space and rock ground made them agree to discharge into water source and that only because it never drys up

watch all 3 of his videos --well worth the time and asumming you will buy amodern nail gun should be quick as well

and here is another one on making the roof

Ok I fopund them larry haun is his name there are other of his videos --all worth studing

there used to be videos on you-tube of an amercian guy -- larry something --if you stick building try to find those he was the master of stick build using only hammer and a skill saw someone might have it saved when i looked tssips there as a scottich compan ythat supplied cement board outer skinned sips panels --again i have lost that link over time since i looked

question? what is special about your build that requires cement fire proofing ?

taking what you ssiad at the very beginning on acces and man power icannot see stick nuilding being easier for you and fitting the insulation in a stick build is very time consuming and you will end up with bits that are hard to get to solid panels at a suitable size will be easier for you i feel Icf contruction will leave you with much thicker walls ,which was alos a problem if memory serves. I quite like ICF --but with your restrictions wall bracing hire ect i would go sips == just my opinion --but everyone has one ==so its up to you in the end what seems simplest for you

I don,t see howthats any different to a stick build as you have more wooden upright -like every 16" where as you will only have spines every 48" if you use 4ft wide panels so you will have less wood in the sips and if that is a problem to you, then add anoutside insulation layer or use insulated palster board on outer walls early you were asking about window holes in blamk panesl simple --cut out hole rebate insulation back and fit wood inbetween the osb

thats what your MP is for -get him to tlak to them thats what i had to do to get things moving and even then it was slow for a simple refurbishment of an exsisting building

good luck with that If you are sure it will fillback up straight away --then you are building on a bog - can,t see how 1meter founds will solve that surely they will just sink until they hit something solid

the house i ma inat the moment was built on strip founds etc and outsied the back door there is an area of concrete about 49sqm -- idecided to buiold a raised patio there as there were 3 steps down to it so when i started to look at it - i did some digging and found the the clay under this concrete area not having being exposed to rain etc had shrunken back from it by about 3 inches over a 20year preiod so this is why on clay grounds they want the founds to go right down so far to be on clay that will not be affected by rain water to keep it swelled up and wil stay moist all the time and not shrink back there is a house built on the side of the nith river that used a different solution dug out to 1.5m below ground --then fitted 1m cubs of polystyene all linked by rebar --then a concrete raft on that It has neve moved in40 years and on high tides the garden is flooded its thatclose the the river edge and that is all clay +sand I would have thought that would be am uch cheaper option than mega thickness of concrete and also gives some insulation and floatation value -- its how a boat works they also use this system for building roads through bogs that freeze inthe winter in scandinavia ,

longer they are the more load on the fixings and the thicker the tube section will need to beand big the mounting plate to spread the load two fixing plates down the outside wall with space between them out will be best remeber what euclid said "give me a lever long enough and i will move the world"

only if you can afford 200year old well seasoned oak to build them from

I am guessing htis was not shown on the planning aplication ,or they would have pointed this problem out