scottishjohn

don,t forget to fit the lead valley in lengths --NOT one piece about 1.5m each bit and overlap them this will stop any problems from expansion of the lead when roof is hot also easier to get a long valley looking good

It could be a little better than washibng up liquid ,but doubt its a game changer

they will go inwith the ratchet strap method of that i,m sure --not sure iwill be able to swivel them if needed

how long has it been exposed to sunlight --anything over a few months and the UV strts to break it down

straight lengths --no problem its the bends which are brett martin --a very well known make ,that the problem is on

as far as i can see all different makers only supply one type of seal for straight joiners and bends but the bends are alwasy a tigher fit on pipe than a straight joiner but different makers have different shapes

Ihave come ot the conculsion that there ideed by different seals for fitting bends ,as Ihave 2 different shaped ones now --will follow it up and report

this is what I have come up with use one smallratchet around pipe to ancor another one then do same around bend then pull them together need another man to do it so cannot do it today also showing water flow today --which is just above average summer flow-1/2 tp 3/4 full in winter

I have a serious suspicon that famers do not use the seals --I say that cos the last ones had green surface mould on them -- and they cost more to use them and if you just using them as field drains probably not a problem --any leaks will probably seal up with the mud and sand that come down them over time

could you be more expnatory of what he actually did ?

I,m working with a live water stream as well

tried all those things -- just too much pressure required to compress the seals to make them go in even just fitting the bend direct to pipe are quite tight so twisting them is a no go really so my next trial is to use some huge "c" type welding mole grips to try to work them in a bit at a time --gripping onthe ribs on the outside and the lip of the bend--I hope the ones I have managed to get in take all my body weight to swivel them round to change the angle maybe htere is some special tool to compress the pipe and bend together --other than the hulk

Iknow i,m getting old and weak . but has anybody got a good trick for fitting bends using the seals I cannot gte enough push to make them go in striaght joiners --no problem but the bends are a tighter fit and just will not go inwith seals fitted

things you can do with a 3ton digger and decent dumper and my ground is allclay+rock and quarry waste so you can a alot with practise

If you got tree roots to rip up ,even a 5ton is abit small if the tree is over 15" diameter --lots of knibbling at roots around it before you will get it out . I do not know of nay hire company that will supply you a ripper blade ,whivh is what you really need to get stuborn roots out , my site with lots of old ash and beech trees which started off as hedge 15-24" -took all day with a 7tonner and ripper to get them out and htat after iahad assaulted them with a 5tonner the week before If you don,t need them out now --cut them down drill hole instump and fill it with weedkiller and go back in a year or more when roots have died back a bit --lot easier

they certainly do --to high and narrow not like my old benfoerd its wider track than the digger and it don,t complain when filled with granite --which is alot more than 3ton -- but its not hydrostatic drive its clutxch and gears and simple 30-40 deegree tilt no problem, your modern 1 ton --is very easy to tip it over not for sloping sites

1ton dumper don,t hold much lots of trips

would not disagree with you -- depending on price to hire and transport it and how tight the site is . a 3ton can be by a large van and trailer or small truck and trailer --5ton no way also depends what else he has to do after removing catery . If buying you can get a bigger one relative cheaper than a small one --

If its 100mm thick then probaly no rebar so a 3tonner will murder it ,probaly with out a pecker start lifting it and see it break ,then do same to next bit ,prop one end of that bit onlast one and break into smaller lumps. how much of it is there .cos it you need hardcore then maybe rent a conrete crusher and make your own sub base or road stone --savess on skip and you something usable

the replies from you all --and I am not saying you are not looking after your tanks or havibg a go --maybe you are correct it does not need desludging very often but suppose neighbours are not using correct washing powders or flushing wet wipes ,tampons etc !! It shows why when you are sharing with others why you need a solid agreement so you don,t fall out with neighbours on how often or when it needs servicing and there is money there to do it same as when shared road ways need maintainece so you want control over it if its on your property

I just got this from british water site which mentions desluding and keeping of records https://cdn.ymaws.com/www.britishwater.co.uk/resource/resmgr/publications/codes_of_practice/bw_desludging_v.2.pdf Iknow from ahving a garage that you must get a waste ticket from who ever does the job or you could get a fine for not disposing of waste in the correct manner by an approved contractor I think you would be unlucky to get a visit with how things are --but it is possible an they could ask to see your log and who did it

it is a requirement in scotland now to keep a log of when the tank is serviced not sure about england and with present cuts in council spending not sure how often they will ask the question but i did read somewhere it if not now but shortly will be a requirement from SEPA will go and hunt sepa site and try to find it a quick search https://www.sepa.org.uk/regulations/water/septic-tanks-and-private-sewage-treatment-systems/maintaining-your-private-sewage-treatment-system/ Iam sure iwas told by the SEPA man that log must be kept of servicing and desludging S oif dealing with a shared tank as this first post was discussing ,then it makes sense to have an agreement on who pays for it

I personally would not share with neighbours --they could sell up and you get a real nasty one unless you have an legal agreement where everybody pays into a maintaince fund -- every month ,£20-30 a month so when it needs servicing there are no problems and you put it in a separte account if they don,t want that then let them sort their own problems this needs to include any successoors to the other properties or I promise you when it goes wrong they will cry poverty that should also take care of the yearly empting that is now required same as with access shared roads would avoid like monkey pox

as siad before the draughts around the door will give ventilation and unless its for your super car etc then just put a jumper on and some portable heating when needed I doubt you will be in there long when its freezing ouutside or if big enough you could make an insulted sub workshop area at the back as i did when younger and doing aero modelling I had a big widow inthe back of the garage Idid insulate the flat roof area with some thick stuff from https://www.secondsandco.co.uk/

Iwent vortec as the emmissions are actually better than a bio disc AND LESS THAN HALF THE PRICE