scottishjohn

corrugated

both fitted correctly will perform as good as each other

have you balanced all the rads ? eg 2probe thermometer one on inlet to rad and one on return wide tvr right open and let it run then adjust flow on other side of rad so you get biggest temp drop across the rads the pump will naturally pump to easiest path -so this will make it balance output in all rads in an ideal world you are looking for 20c drop across the rad - unlikely you wil get this . but if rads are incorrect size it will be even worse from looking at your first post it si shouting at me that your insulation levels are very very poor # 12" of loft inmsualtion is absolute minimum or a better oproduct that will give that levle in a THINNER LAYER this is hwere you should be spending money as insulation is a once only cost you seem to be blaming it all onthe boiler . Idid a test in old house i had with an ir temp gun ,which i used at work on race cars - checked wall temp ,then moved a piicture sideways on the wall and checked again --it was 4c lower which told me my wall insulation was crap the easiest solution was to fit all ouside walls with insulated plaster board 50mm thick -no need to remove exsisting --just dot +dab fix it If youo want to get exotic ,buy a flur gun which will show cold ppatchs everywhere and high light air leaks etc

or do as suggested above BUT fit a low height ufh system on top of exsisiting floor will be about 40mm in height to where you fir flooring covering of choice .my choice would be tiles - on top the cement board consists pg polystyrene foil covered boards with slots for std UFH piping and is then covered by cement board as the heatsink and ro spread out the heat ,but yes underfloor imsulation should be done as well and not rely on the 25mm of insulation in the piping boards . that would be ok for upstairs UFH as any heat loss would be to the lower floor what you will notice as idid this on previous hopuse is the speed with which floor will change in temp ,both ways ,so with good thermostat you will never voerheat if sun comes inthe windows ,but as heat sink is thinner will not keep iit as long when heating is off as a 60mm screed ,as it will be thinner always a compromise insulation under flooor will be key to making it work well

the guy who bought my other rebuildable property had a good idea its not yet habitable ,but because he was living on site in a caravan they wanted to charge him rates on the caravan he told them with docs to back it up that he was running his biz remotely from the site so it was classed as commercial small biz inscotland of less than £17000 rateable value pay no biz rates nice one!!!

I would not disagree but a rough cut on copper ,not using a pipe cutter and not smotthed up with emery paper and you could damage seal which could fail later you just have to think about what you are doing

the green is showing corrosion of the copper ,probaly caused by the joint not being wiped clean of any flux when it was installed and over time it corroded through the pipe toput it incontext the push fit joints have seals have viton seals ,used much in the motor industry and has a life span of about 50 years . there are systems of non copper piping that you can get in 100m rols so not joints need to be hidden but that would involve a BIG job replcaing all the copper the down side is if you have mice and htings in hidden spaces ,they love to chew the plastic piping there are now copper fitting that do not need ot be soldered and can be clamped with an expensive tool and ti might struggle in tight places to get it on . or you could use compression fittings and keep to copper . lots of choices https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMZCNC-Professional-M-contour-12-15-18-22-28-stainless/dp/B0B23JBL92/ref=sr_1_6?adgrpid=1176478412701108&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.HGg2p4aObRaJ95PUQ91GgmOw4sVInjmrOSt479fMRqfo_L_YqByexIhU0Sj2qQ5aduD9Vle4Q2dFofTPwMqSQRDJ8Pj-hjhYJSIxr3sbVcMCRy_-5jX2Suvv7WgfN64QXRSGCxtsukxcIiskcY0NyhiFy3DZLnFLrc27GjvXNLJsgg7VsUKC8-kMjcOnFsFv3awZyJJ8YlhHd5E45BkXKjEjCqc4R45OlkI8_t1X-myJvsBNIEakYX-W96xQsO2vGqNRbMdSECeTU6t9QiCHBgsGmkqEzwR4HJToPXJFEDc.E6NG-MzO8-sgzkWuolkJpoS041bWCVo7m2hTecN0M9o&dib_tag=se&hvadid=73530115715507&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=69270&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-73530081048888%3Aloc-188&hydadcr=6853_1858911&keywords=copper%2Bpipe%2Bcompression%2Btool&msclkid=92ac80d893251a8f2682e7ca8ae93bd7&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1729239587&sr=8-6&th=1 one example of a crimping too; for copper fittings --these fittings are not same as a yorkshire fitting

there is more cost in the laying of it than buying the lvt but if you look at my thread you will see what they have done so far ,as ground floor is still drying out is first class

maybe you should have brushed all the gaps with water before pointing ,,as a very dry mix will be hard pressed to adhere to dirty msoil contaminated and dry gaps we do the same when pointing granite in dry conditions ,even more wetting if it was sandstone as it is pourous abnd will suck all the water from the mix and not bonnd but no water will be a mistake then use a small damp l brush carefully to finish it off before it sets I doubt you can just put it in like putty and get a good bond try a small area and see if it works fro you before pulling it all out to redo

watching my flooring people do my LVT they have been very particular about a few things firstly after doing the self levelling coat it was then ground flat with a thing that looked like a floor polisher with a vacum attached then nothing more was done until the mositure content in floor was down to 3.5% they were very particlar about this as they insist that this is the main reason for delamination of LVT they could have used a different system which would have added anothe £900 to the job to allow the floor to be laid anything up to 5%

so being a victorian house did it have direct plaster on solid walls or was thier wooden battons and lathe +plaster giving an air gap from below floor up into the cold roof space as this is the simple way to get drying out and is time proved method If you have big rooms could you except loosing 100-150 mm on inside of outer walls if so just build a stud wall betwwen exsisting floors and ceilings and makke sure thier is an air gap all the way from below floor to eaves insulate walls with what ever and fit a vapour barrier it would also give you space for running new electrics or plumbing etc without touching exsisting walls so technically you could do it phases ,one outside wall at a time just a suggestion

pictures?

but is it your wall or theirs or shared? depends where the actual boundary is and considering it is retaing their land I would suggest it is their problem not yours which house was built first ? i would doubt your land was reduced in height to build your house ,why would anybody do that ? far more likely they wanted to build up some sloping ground to make a flat garden finding orginal planning drawings if possible of your house would show that would it not ?

it was very common when everyone used roofing felt as summer temps would cause damage

sounds like rip it all off and start again I there somewhere the water goes off the roof into a drain pipe even if its flat ? if its not a roof you ever walk on every day and its very flat you could cover it with a layer of chips when its done .that will keep water on tthere to ceratin level and stop it getting too hot

I do not like twin wall as all those little holes that run top to bottom get mould growing in them abd is impossible to clean out plus you have the perfext bug holes to nest in they say to use special tape around the edges but it still does not stop it growing mould inside the box sections and can lead to condesnation in the panels

as you stated the problem with the GRP was installation --not the product itself with grp roofing it is essential that the boards under them are replaced at same time If these roofs were a repair of exsisting other roof my guess is they cut corners the prodcut is fine as for a rubber roof i have a friend who has a hotel with rubber roofing ,or had the crows would take things up on there and peck at them and made holes in the membrane it could also be they did not allow for expansion a good roofer will know how big it can be before it needs expansion flashings note the expansion joint on my balcony and lead flashings in the stone work that come down over the grp upstand flashings at the edges

any update on what you are planningto do or have done

to be fiar it could have been the floor spec when we built it we wanted same spec floor as they used for heavy earth moving workshop ,so it would not even chip if you hit it with a big hammer laid then polished for hours with ,if i remember correctly addition like a resin substance that they polished in to it with the ride on flymo things

mine was 750sqm and was not so thick as to chip easily probably what was specified by the franchise --and they never look at things right I have had 4 dealerships in my time and they used to spend my money like water if you did not chalenge them they would suddenly send you 15k of advertising stands for showroom -no option and bill your parts accounts same with special tools ,at least 90 % of which you would never use ,or in alot cases even know what it is for or for a model you did not get in uk one maker wanted tiled workshop floor -they were told to go whistle and you wonder why main dealer labouur rates are so high

I totally agree you start adding up what it costs to renovate an old old to modern sppec and flatten and rebuild could be cheaper so it comes back to the value of the serviced plot its location as the starting point which is where istarted wioth my renovation ,but asit went on it seemd wrong to destroy the old ruin of a house which was basically very sound in walls etc the value of the plot and its outlook amde both options possible and on one hand if ihad gone for flatten and put something new of there ,samller than it is it might have been right choice too late now

the only thing to use i used it in my garage biz and most of it was still there 35years later, you neeed to sort out the dusty layer ir anything will just stick to the dust and not the concrete maybe a deep penetrating sealer .then the two pack your one pack garage floor paints are not brake fluid proof or even some oils --so thats why we didi not go for the cheap option which would have worked out over the years much more expensive

Iwould agrue the one I have rebuilt with its postion is jsut as worthy as the other ,but am very glad they did not

you tell me the reason why one is listed and one not first one is not listed the second is