scottishjohn

your air tightnes goes even with fewer holes --but that is a red herring as you block up mvhr when doing air test and as they will work together balancing in and out with the controller option i feel you are being over critical the man wanted a solution that was easy to fit --thats it

blauberg do a de centralised system which will be easy to fit https://www.ecoenvelope.co.uk/ look under mvhr and see the blauberg system there

I like velox in some of its points ,but would not use the internal wall panels --stud walls unless need support for something further up . then just same as outer walls then there is durisol or Isotex plenty of choices

Hi, so why build outside with wood when you could just as easy do it all ICF of some sort so many different types some of which it would be quite easy to hand mix and fill as you go -no need for pump,if cost is the primary concern and wanting to do it a bit at a time

I have sf60 in my loft over mineral wool in gable ends and under my suspended ground floor as insulation,stapled up and all sealed together with correct tape as my ufh is set in floor boards seems works very well is all I can say ,whether it is the sealing up of all the underfloor or the insulation that is doing most I cannot say , but when I have had to pull some down to do things to wring + plumbing behind it --then you can feel it is a barrier to heat loss +air movement,as the air trapped in between joists is very much warmer than the cold draft under the house

I was told by an ex mosquito pilot that most were sent out to asia after the war ,sold onto the commonwealth countries unfortunately not a good climate for wooden aircraft most got eaten by the bugs in very short order. he was one of the few that flew the anti tank version fitted with a 4lb field gun he said he had to be ready to get nose down and full throttle when you fired it . cos the recoil nearly stalled it every time,due to going slow to get it lined up on target LOL

even builders with joiners buy kit houses a lot of the time for small projects ,because its cheaper that way

I have been studying these and contacted importer + checked info from maker all I can say is that the information given by them and some of thier written info does not agree with what the italian maker says example "do you need bracing ? answer NO up to one story 2.25m --non required GREAT --thinks me -thats saves alot of money on multiple pours and pump hire and bracing hire -then goes to product data and its says every 5 or 6 rows fill with concrete --so that 1.25 to 1.5 m It is really worrying when you get these sort of answers no BBA approvel --could be june before that --no Uk spec inf in writing ,still making pproper Uk spec info so to me just as well I,m in no hurry . I will wait for UK spec to clarify these points I am not saying product is not good ,just beware of sales men save me from salesman that do not know thier own product and just say yes to everything then do the quick shuffle when you pick them up on it ,and say its up to you to decide whats right for your own build -- beware of all salesmen and check tech info yourself

only reason i can see for using solid internal on most builds will be to give support to upper floors using shorter joists or to support main ridge beam on a sips panelled roof so smaller gluelam can be used other wise stud seems easier . as for cheaper --don,t know - but doubt it

reasons for isotex over durisol would be of help As i have yet to decide on choice of ICF system yo use post or send message if you prefer

also look at fixolite.be. there are a few different versions then you have VELOX as well

I have a portal frame building with concealed gutters . having had this for 30 years here are my exploits of the year If gutter or down pipe gets blocked --where is the overflow going to go? my gutter was made from galv steel --not my spec ,but what they did . a perfect cold bridge which after 10 years rotted through --and probably from underside as it is sitting on a galv beam . so It must be grp or something plastic to my mind It must be sat on insulation if any part of it is exposed to heat from house or condensation will be a problem even zinc will corrode over time if not a clear air flow on underside .same goes zinc roofs must be air flow on underside .not sat on osb more down pipes than you think you need would be my suggestion + how you going to get at this gutter to clean it out -- mesh on top will not stop build up of fine sludge over time . the solution for my building was to remake the 8" x 8" gutter by lining it with 3 layers of grp condensation problem never cured ,but as i don,t heat that area much now and have tried to seal it off --its not a great problem

you notice the video when showing use on cars --are always at top of engine --not down the side or behind things where you need to secure pipes and wiring from chaffing a gun will never fit lots of places you can hardly get your fingers in

I think for use on cable looms in a production application they are perfect where you using one size ,but most people are needing to use lots of different size ties for jobs and they are so cheap to buy now Me, in the car trade I use about 6 different sizes and lengths for different jobs.plus places where the size of the tool would be a problem from wheel trims to micro small ones for small wiring jobs

I think the first most important part is to get the money right from the insurance co. I am guessing they think it is cheaper to just give you money and walk away than rebuild . so you need YOUR OWN quotes to re instate as it was before ,including all site clearance costs . And will SEPA require removal of contaminated ground from fire ? --include those costs so you will need a good claims adjuster+ solicitor that YOU are paying for to get best deal and if possible and you are going to take the money you want to have the option to sell the site on as it is could be it would be cheaper /better to buy somewhere else and sell that ?. I am aware that normal terms of insurance always say it must be rebuilt --but if they wanting to do a deal --then no reason why you shouldn't have it to suit you all insurance is interested in is doing it as cheap as possible My experience of insurance companies giving payouts rather than actually paying for reinstatement is they are looking to get it cheaper--so get the money bit sorted --do not be in a hurry to go started ,they will use that to get a better deal once they pay you any other problems will be yours !!!. you get one bite at the cherry

I would avoid any sort of mechanical pumping at all costs --it will only be a headache sometime in future

sounds as though it would simpler to just build a brick pillar or an RSJ and have 2 windows rather than one corner window

why do you have to connect to the neighbours very shallow system --why not go direct to the main sewer manhole? then his problems are never yours. for sure if there ever are any you will be blamed as you have connected last on the system . maybe a conversation with the BC is in order ?

thank you for the up date in modern thinking

yes like outside house where all drains join together before going on to sewer . easiest way anyway to get all the under foundation drains together and cleanable if you get blockage in years to come

yes because if pipe drys out and then a small flush leaves something sticky half way down and then it drys to side of pipe it is the beginnings of a blockage , so vertical drops with rodding points is better for that situation . which is why I think larger pipes have less drop so the bottom of pipe is always wet

I am expecting to have to have multiple drop chambers with my build as septic tank is going to be 20ft below house I think due to slopped nature of site and hard ground issues may get away with tank being closer to house and then just driange field will be down hill a long way

you need a manhole outside the house where all your foul water pipes connect in a chamber so this where you should calculate from to inside house at floor level to get the drop correct before it goes to main sewer connection and that connection needs a minimum of 450mm drop into the actual sewer /septic tank you BC man will want to check all this before you cover them up and probably require you to do a smoke or pressure test Is this connected to mains or is it septic tank as all these heights and drops should have been worked out before fitting septic tank

maybe i,m being thick but surely the postion of the rest bend is dictated by the level at which the drain enters the foundation and if required you need to extend the top of the rest bend to height you need not fix it so it connects directly to the bog- rest bends or 87.5 degree slow bends are always preferred as a drain rod can go round them much easier --no short 90bends under ground if possible If you are short of height I suggest that your pipe run outside house is too shallow and maybe you should be checking and adjusting them first

my thoughts would be to use counter battens this would be the make up membrane on top of sarking boards vertical battons attached to sarking then membrane that very slightly sags with counter battons on top of it that gives you your 50mm void and nice draft up roof to dry things out and just enough sag to stop water gathering up behind the cross battons then fix slates to counter battons. fit bug screens at lower edge of roof ay gutter level and some ventilated ridges at top this should mean you can fill under sarking with insualtion as it is now a cold roof with ventilation