Mr Punter

Can't you pack the studs out with some laths?

Wall between WC and utility is almost certainly not loadbearing. You don't need planning consent or building regs to remove it. The wall between the living room and hallway is almost certainly loadbearing. I don't see the benefit in moving the door. It would probably need a new lintel and it will be difficult to make good the blocked up one.

I use CorelDRAW. I have a paid for copy that does not require a subscription. It is not designed for architectural plans but I can make it work fine.

I rarely get a visit more than five times start to finish for new build housing.

It will work A4 landscape at 1:500

I think the paint will do as good a job as the plastic sheet, which will be pierced by multiple screws and may not be properly lapped / taped.

Hi Duncan and welcome. Insulation and airtightness is a good start for energy efficiency improvements. It is surprising the difference some decent draft proofing can make, even though it will not feed through to your EPC. Are you going to do an overall plan of works for the whole house or just do bits piecemeal when you have the time / funds?

These? https://tarmac.com/products/blocks/durox-supabloc/

Why? I thought the VCL was to stop moist air migrating from inside the building and condensing on the structure and that a paint product on the ceiling could work for this?

You can get paints that you can apply which will do the same job. They can be overpainted. You need to make sure that spotlights and other penetrations are sealed.

Yes, it should do but make sure you let the planners know that any change to this planning condition would cause an unacceptable loss of amenity to you.

Hi and welcome. I think there are some rules about needing to have a few posts before you can upload pictures.

No but I am considering buying 2 sets. Is there an issue with them? I have come a cropper with some Ideal Combi sliders sticking and difficult to operate and I thought the Rationel ones would be better, being lift and slide.

I think you are out by a factor of 10, so maybe you meant per square metre?

It looks like there is no skirting. Normally the plasterer leaves a gap at the bottom as it is very difficult to plaster down to the floor, keep it flat and not spread crap from the floor. I think this is why it is flared out a bit. The waterfall edge can be scribed to the wall. Probably easiest to do in the workshop.

Another vote for the brush in stuff. It can get expensive if you are doing wide joints or cobbles, where sand / cement can work out better.

You can get an insurance policy for this but I would not bother.

The only issue I could see is if your door threshold is not thermally broken and in contact with the screed you would have a cold bridge.

They should open loads more than that. Pull harder on the handle.

ICF in a basement can be tricky as you cannot inspect the concrete. A groundworks company should be able to build a basement and they do not need to be registered. You will probably still need to use 2 forms of waterproofing. Basements are fairly high risk as the waterproofing can often fail and the cost to remedy can be high. You need a ground investigation and structural engineer.

So slab, 170 pir, screed. Is the 100mm Foamglas on the slab?

If that is the case, just show shiplap. It is only the external finishes that are planning matters. Different for Building Regs, where they may want something non-combustible.

Yes, I was suggesting a replica GRP one.

Best to get the amendment agreed by the planners. It would be really annoying to finish the extension and later have to erect scaffold to fit a GRP replica stack

Polythene DPM is probably cheaper and it is clean and easy to install. If the slab is not flat you could use some sand to level it before you put down the DPM.