Mr Punter

I don't think there is much in the cost.

If there is a TPO and it is not on your land I don't think that it can be easily removed. If this is just for a garage, do a few cracks matter?

Running copper through joists is tricky. Most builds use chipboard upper floor decking which is fitted before first fix plumb and electrics. If you have a long run of copper pipe perpendicular to joists you will have issues.

Yes. Do you have any photos of just before the window was installed?

I understood that you need Part P if you are adding extra circuits and that moving switches etc in existing circuits is OK.

We did a basement in ICF a few years ago and had a blowout. Luckily we could wedge some timber between the wall and the face of the excavation and the bulge was not visible as we did a metal stud wall inside. Still, I don't like the thought that during the pour there is so much risk.

Normally you would have a cavity tray and weepholes above the lintel to sort out the top then a cavity closer at the sides and the bottom. The main weather seal is between the frame and the outer leaf and is normally mastic or Compriband. Any water getting past this should get stopped by the cavity closer and directed into the cavity.

Some of the manufacturers are more adept at exaggerating the performance of their boards.

Thirty quid for a couple of grands worth of render.

A most of the timber frame breather membranes are flammable, which just does not seem right.

Yes they are broadly the same.

With the first mix the lime won't make it much whiter but it may be a better consistency / easier to work with. Can you make up sample batches?

Can you just form the arch in brickwork and use a normal timber frame lintel with cavity tray above?

Can you see if Network Rail have any suggestions as to which engineer to use?

Option 2 shows the spurs connected mid way between sockets. The junction boxes required would need to be easily accessible. It would involve stripping and terminating 8 cables. Option 3 only involves 4 cables.

Yes concrete.

Extractor fans in bathrooms and shower rooms to expel the moist stale air plus trickle vents / wall vents in bedrooms and living rooms to allow fresh outside air in.

Yes, outline planning means you can build there and you could raise finance and so adds a fair bit of value. You can get an environmental report on contamination, flood risk etc.

It looks like the ebay one comes ready to go. Be warned that these can sometimes catch in the material and twist your wrist. When it starts cutting, just adjust the speed and pressure so it makes decent progress and clears away as it goes. You will see when you have the right balance of pressure and speed. Wear goggles too as an eyeful of swarf is a bit uncomfortable.

Without 150mm insulation you should have a rethink. You could put UFH in the extension and rads elsewhere, but on the concrete floor it will leak loads of heat.

I have used Marmox blocks for the first course on top of the steel plate. Probably better than nothing.

You can fix the ties to the column with screws or shotfire Hilti nails. You may need 1 every course. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/wall-and-frame-ties/staifix-spb-frame-cramp-200mm/p/252309

Yes. I have used the TG4 stuff and left it for about 8 months. 1 screw per board max. Similar number of sheets.

"All domestic customers have a 1 year satisfaction guarantee on their domestic units. If you are not satisfied, you can return the product within 365 days of your purchase for a full refund."

Yes, I think the netting would help. Have a word with the site manager. If they don't play ball, contact Environmental Health and HSE.