Mr Punter

Space it so you will cut the first row. Work out where the last row will fall so you can decide how wide to cut the first row. Bank on cutting 2 rows.

Ignore as I noticed this is for timber frame

Resin fixings would be better as they don't expand. Clean the holes thoroughly before you resin.

Because you referred to them as "he" three times.

It really should not cost a fortune to render an extension in sand and cement. How much was the cheapest quote? Is the BI insisting it is rendered before signoff?

With a user name of DonnaP123 the OP is probably female (or whatever you are supposed to say now).

All gas boilers are condensing. I think you mean combi boilers? You don't need lots of hot water for a kitchen. Dishwasher heats cold water. You could just get an under sink heater for any washing up or hand washing.

I would keep the fixings you have and tighten them a little, so the washer is snug on the sheet.

Not strictly on topic but it appears that you are building right up to the boundary on the left. Do you have consent from the adjacent owner to erect scaffolding and possibly construct foundations on their land?

Will the water table mean you need to make special provision to for drainage under the slab? @nod had a soggy site on and laid concrete to falls under the beam and block.

Is that plus fees, prelims, service connections, scaffold, welfare, insurances, warranty etc?

It will be no issue with a packaged pump station.

The condition is a matter for planning, not building regs so it will not affect signoff. It is very unlikely to have any repercussions if you ignore it, as long as you submit details of what you intend to do and have those details approved in writing.

Unless they condition that the blackout blinds are drawn at night the planning condition is nonsensical.

OK. Maybe you should prioritise getting the house safe and weathertight. You don't need to inform planning. Once you have commenced you can take as long as you like or choose not to do it at all. If there are structural alterations, like walls taken out and beams inserted, these will need to be given the all clear by Building Control. They should be fine with you reinstating what was there. Get them round and discuss it.

I don't see how you can have any timber frame where the flush patio doors are, as the frame needs to be 150mm above ground. All you need under the doors is something rot proof with good insulation that is strong enough to support them.

My word @vik2001 what a situation! It seems you have got planning consent, your neighbour? did some ground works, you had a falling out, you have not got the funds to finish the job? But you are asking questions as if you plan to complete the work? I think if you give us a straight up version of where you are and what you want to achieve you could probably get some sensible answers, otherwise it sounds a bit spammy.

Yes if it is a new build and on the entrance floor building regs require it. Part M

38 x 89 @ 600 ctrs and 9mm OSB is fine. Nail the OSB @ 300 ctrs. Use treated timber if you want it to last.

Perhaps a bit silly to cut the wire. I would be pissed off that the timer doesn't work and that seems the main point. Just ask the builder or sparky to get it sorted. No need for WW3.

@Pocster! Quick! A nibble!

Is there a loft you can get into to inspect?

Robin Clevett the youtube chippy likes to use Cutwrights for this sort of thing. Maybe give them a go. They are well regarded.

I think your broker has it right. Although others will say that a warranty is not worth the paper it is written on, the value of a new house can be drastically reduced without one.