Mr Punter

For some acoustic applications they put a strip of compressible material under the soleplate to help prevent sound transmission.

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Get a large excavator if you have the space. 8 tonne would mean you could load the muck lorries and not need grabs. It will also be good for materials handling. Hire it with an operator.

I have just had some Velfac windows supplied and fitted. I noticed there was an obscured glass window in a kitchen area which I wanted clear. Looking at the signed order it did specify obscure so I thought I would be on the hook for the cost of a replacement. I contacted Velfac who apologised and said it was their error and they will send a replacement sash FOC.

Yes it is wrong. If this is supply and fit, get them back to sort it. It needs a cill set to overhang the brickwork. They may need to scrap this one and start again. Water will be pissing into the cavity.

Offer £50 on here and someone will sort it for you.

The OP is now proposing a 240mm I beam type frame so I guess it will span the inner and outer masonry.

I have done quite a few small infill plots. You may be able to go down to 3 boards wide, so 750mm.

This never ever happens. In the skip and replace with new. Rooflights are often toughened and / or laminated, so even if you wanted to endlessly faff around it would not be possible.

No. Render and paint please.

I think the SIP sheathing wants a 25mm minimum clear cavity, so no.

I have just had 12 windows fitted for a similar price but new build so nothing to remove. Also we are left with any packaging / general crap.

If the blockwork is being rendered you could sort it with a render bead. We have rendered the underside of lintels by prepping with rend aid.

Maybe this sort of thing then https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/product/simpson-1200-x-30-x-2mm-light-restraint-strap-bent-100/16842

I am struggling to see what the issue is.

If the window is not square and level it will need refitting. What is the exterior finish and is it complete?

It is a real pain to apply and very messy. You need loads of coats to meet the required thickness. It goes manky if exposed to the elements / condensation. You will struggle to get a decent finish.

I think you have labelled the vertical timber battens incorrectly. The arrow looks to be pointing to the 30mm pir. Regarding holding down, you could use https://www.metrofixings.co.uk/product/simpson-strong-tie-htt5-403mm-hold-down-strap/23994 fixed to studs and bolted to the slab internally.

Yes I am pretty sure. That is why housebuilders don't use it. I doubt it would get a warranty or mortgage as a dwelling.

Would a bottom outlet chamber work? https://www.drainageonline.co.uk/underground-drainage/drainage-pipe-and-fittings/marley-underground-drainage/250mm-diameter-double-bottom-outlet-chamber-body

You may want to consider aluminium copings for this.

No. If it is going to support roof and floors it needs to be structural steel and will cost much more than brick / block, timber frame, sips or icf.

You may find that improving airtightness will be more beneficial. What is the floor and roof insulation like? I am just thinking that ripping out the plasterboard will be a bit disruptive. If you do end up doing IWI you could use a PIR board which won't eat into the room as much.

So when you need a plasterboard, you take the clip off with a drill, move the board from the stack, then reattach the clip. Maybe cone off the area and set up some flashing lights and a siren. And have a couple of security guards on hand.

Once the house is completed it is very difficult to tell the difference.