Mr Punter

Hello and welcome. It will take far longer than 15 months and will cost at least £1000 per square metre, maybe several times that. If you are given a plot of land, as an interim you could put a caravan on it, then at least you are master of your own domain. Good luck!

You may be able to use windposts or another structural steel solution.

Kitchen open to stairs on the escape route is not good. Each upstairs room will need an escape window and you may need additional smoke / heat sensors.

Why on earth did you enter a cost-plus contract for a refurb? A proper spec, plans and schedule of works would have removed a lot of uncertainty for you and the builder and given you a contract sum before you started. Bear in mind that disputes can cost £1000s, so perhaps meet and discuss the final payment amount.

With a solid wall, adding non-breathable insulated plasterboard internally will make the wall colder and wetter. Could you use external wall insulation?

Hello and welcome. Did you look into demolition and rebuild? You would get the VAT back and have fewer compromises. What lovely looking surroundings!

If you propose to have a mortgage on this purchase, your solicitor will often act jointly for your lender which can be helpful as if it does not comply for lending purposes it is a no-go.

You will need the certificates for electrics and glazing. The building regs certificated does not seem to relate to the stable block conversion but it is hard to say as you have redacted the first paragraph. Have you seen the initial notice?

The structural warranty is an insurance policy backed by inspections. You will normally submit building regs level drawings from architect or designer for the warranty provider to check. These should have most of the detail your builder needs. They will usually have some input from a structural engineer. The quote from your builder does not need to be detailed. They just need to refer to the drawings. It could be a single paragraph if the drawings have enough information.

+1 Just make sure you have double timbers (minimum) all round. Looks like you should add a timber sandwiched to the right of the red one.

There is not much point if there is no risk of interstitial condensation. If you had a this layer of Rockwool between battens on the inside you could staple on some polythene before you plasterboard. Paint can be fairly vapour impermeable. Most insulated lofts have no VCL and no issues and they are on the horizontal plane which is more vulnerable.

Wedi type boards are lightweight and easy to use.

They want them in GRP.

I don't see why option 2 would not work.

I am using blown EPS beads on a project. The only issue is that fairfaced brickwork may require a coat of Stormdry to prevent moisture ingress. No need for a VCL as the dew point is near the outer leaf.

Mine was £282. I think it would be big enough for a 3 phase head. Mine is single phase and has a small CU and fuse switch. Sparky is going to fit a Ryefield board so we can feed 2 properties, so we will need another meter. That will be a squeeze, but space on site is limited.

I have bought from these people: https://www.emiter.co.uk/product-category/3-phase-electric-meter-boxes/?orderby=price

Just buy a new hinge

Someone else on here suggested shock collars for their kids...

Some tent pegs driven at an angle

The section drawing is not very helpful as it shows the other side of the extension, where you have a path. You really need details showing the opposite side.

Put in an attenuation tank and specify permeable paving. It possibly won't do much good, but it should get signed off. As there is an existing building you will not be making matters worse. Worst case you are allowed to discharge to a foul sewer, although this is not to be encouraged. If it is clay, the more you dig out, the bigger the pond you create. Percolation tests / drainage mounds are for foul water systems and you have a main sewer connection.

If a wall has been tape and filled it is good to give it a once over with a soft brush to remove the dust.

Another vote for the gutter. I have used Guttercrest for aluminium gutters and I am very happy with them. If the roof is going to be zinc, you could stick to zinc. Expensive though. I have seen the top hung posis in the manual. The only issue may be that the strut should overhang the bearing by 15mm, but if the supplier did the design and calcs to prove it works, then all is good.

I think the retaining walls faced with reclaimed stone are messing you up. Get a proper design for the wall. Get someone else to do the stone facings.