Mr Punter

Robin Clevett the youtube chippy likes to use Cutwrights for this sort of thing. Maybe give them a go. They are well regarded.

I think your broker has it right. Although others will say that a warranty is not worth the paper it is written on, the value of a new house can be drastically reduced without one.

Get the lintels in and fit shuttering either side of where the pipes are going before you cavity fill.

I only need the 30mm one. I could probably borrow one. I may even have one if I rummage around in the lockup.

I thought that but they were fitted with an impact wrench, which I don't have. I think I would struggle to undo them. I only have an adjustable spanner that would fit. It is an M20 bolt. There are some good ideas here but I don't know what will be best. Double nutting, castle nutting, half nut, loctite, do not trim, spray with Galvafroid... I may try using my adjustable to see if I can loosen one of these, then look at my options.

I have some steelwork and most of it will be covered by the ceiling / resilient bar arrangement, apart from a top plate and some bolts. The bolts project about 30mm and I wondered if I could trim them flush with the nuts to reduce the impact when it is boxed in, or is it a no-no?

They look pretty crappy. Trustpilot is not keen either: https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/link2home.co.uk

What you have shown looks OK. You may be better going through the wall with the shower wastes and connecting them to the SVP with a boss rather than using the pipe from the WCs, which will likely be too high in any case.

Also, consider a dehumidifier, with the condense pipe plumbed in so you don't have to mess with emptying it. It doesn't waste any heat in the winter and you can dry your washing with one.

It can feel very hurt and sometimes become tearful when subjected to criticism and scornful remarks.

It always worked for Arthur Daley.

I don't think it would be great, but should be acceptable in most cases. No good if you are near a busy road. There are lots of routes for sound into a building and more likely through windows, doors and roof.

0.25 W/m².K. But you can get to 0.18 with 25mm internally, so 227mm total wall thickness.

With timber frame you could have thin coat render onto carrier board, 15mm total, 25mm battens, breather membrane, 10mm sheathing board, 140mm timber frame with 120mm pir insulation, 12.5mm plasterboard and skim, so a total wall thickness of 202mm. If you wanted better u values you could use an insulated plasterboard.

Do you really mean a 350mm cavity, or is it a 350mm wall with a 150mm cavity? If space is tight it will be worse when you render as the poles will need to be pulled back off the building. Have you ruled out timber frame?

The kerbs, edge courses and cutting look well done so they know what they are doing. It is only the colour match that lets the job down.

Fire curtain is mental for a dwelling. OK for commercial, like on an escalator for a high end retail store.

So each time you use the loo, if only for a wee or the basin to wash your hands, the saniflo motor will kick in loundly. Good luck if you ever want it to be like a proper, habitable space but probably OK compared to a dirty stinking portaloo.

https://drainstore.com/pumping-stations-pumps/packaged-pumping-stations-and-pumps/single-sewage-pumping-station-610mm-x-1000mm-292-litres-2-year-warranty-pump/

I just had a look at this stuff. Very expensive. At 75mm high it would be £186 to do a 1m2 rooflight.

You could have a sunken tank and pump just outside the man cave. Gravity drain into tank, pump up to the gravity sewer.

Macerators are noisy and annoying. A packaged pump station is quieter and more reliable.

Get a pump station. The outlet can be run close to the surface.

I see this sometimes when going from masonry to timber frame. A strip of DPC under the soleplate. I am not sure what your top plate is doing. It does not seem to support anything.

There are lots of products where they only emphasise the positives and ignore the difficult details. I have used full fill rigid insulation with beam and block and did not bother with cavity trays above air bricks. There is loads of room under the suspended floor for any water to go. Trays above lintels are no issue so get fitted as usual.