Mr Punter

Tilt fillet or batten on edge for the eaves course which may need cutting. The epdm will obvs tuck under the roof felt. I don't know how you will fix the slates above. Will you strip them and reinstate inc ridge tiles? The slates look good.

As others have mentioned it may be far better to start afresh. You have not posted an existing floor plan but I guess the works would be very extensive. The "roof lift" may involve a temporary roof scaffold, removing the entire roof, building up the walls and fitting a new roof structure and covering. There will not be any prospects of you living there while the work is going on. If you go down the new build route, demolition costs are fairly reasonable and there are several lenders who will help finance this. You will also be able to reclaim the VAT. It will probably a lot quicker. There will be more cost certainty.

Where is the water from the pitched part meant to go? Is there a gutter / flashing or will it just run over the flat roof?

I agree. I have fairly recently had to pay out about £26k for leaky windows installed by an approved contractor. I am still considering going after them for the money but it may cost a lot to prove.

I think there is a lot of value in measuring, specifying, scheduling, unloading, distribution at site, protection, installation and warranty / snagging. Perhaps an extra 50% on the basic delivered to site window order value.

If it is disused, could you cap it either side of your property?

I have seen it advertised. I imagine expensive, but it apparently at least equals double glazed but only 6mm thick. Get a few quotes / samples and let us know how you get on.

Maybe say what system and manufacturer.

What is LBC? Listed building consent? Have you looked at the vacuum insulated glass?

Labour only?

It would be good if you could update this thread when you hear back from LR / mortgage firms.

One for your SE I think.

These are better for flat surfaces like floors or tarmac. No good in a trench.

It is tricky doing any groundwork near clay pipes. I would replace with plastic. Regarding the concrete you will need to cut it back before it cures, so this evening or early tomorrow.

Would it help if you referenced each of the photos, date, time, adding plot number, lat, long and altitude from the iphone data, and note (like "cavity closer") so it presents the same information as the app? I cannot see how slightly inaccurate geolocation entirely invalidates the evidence you have.

If the brickwork is getting saturated you could treat it externally with a coat of StormDry.

There are mixed views on multi foil insulation. Given the choice, I would go with fibreglass. Some of the multi foils are highly flammable.

Just pour some water on the top. It stops the air getting to it and prevents it curing. It will last 3 months. I doesn't mix with the water. I have just used Joint It Simple but there are lots of brands.

Once opened, store it with water on top to keep it from setting.

That's good. What are the corrugated sheets at the back?

You could set up a ltd co and transfer part. You would need to be aware of stamp duty, cil, cgt and other tax implications and take proper (not Angela Rayner type) advice.

Split the supply should be the cheapest option. The DNO should do a free visit and let you know. You may only get 60A per phase. Bear in mind PV and EV future demands.

Have a good sort through to separate and dispose of the asbestos, timber and building waste. You may be able to burn the pallets on site. You don't want a digger tracking through that lot. There is a lot of prep needed.

+1 Because you have a series of small rooms, this job looks difficult. Get several quotes for someone skilled and experienced to do the job.

Is the wall plate strapped down? If so, you may only need a truss clip or structural screw to fix each rafter / truss to the wall plate.