Jenni

Do you mind sharing the model please? I'm struggling to find a flat bed combi with jacket potato button, and really miss a previous machine that would oven and grill simultaneously, sounds like yours is perfect.

Have recessed led track in my corridor, was plastered last November, no cracks yet. Love it so much will be having similar in the kitchen.

Think thinner bars are down to budget - mine didn't stretch to skinny. Luckily I'm happy enough with these wide ones.

Love my triple pane sliders, same width as you too.

How about remove the stones, add some permeable sub base to level with drive then strip of artificial turf on top with edges pinned down.

Dry trap? Though I'm not sure if they're up to kitchen sinks. https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-wash-hand-basin-space-saver-with-self-closing-waste-valve-white-32-x-32mm/863HP?kpid=863HP&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjws8yUBhA1EiwAi_tpER4CRe5Ee9eNrPodU40whFquu9i9x5xDRuR7ok35actzCA2ouh0wyxoC18EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.toolstation.com/viva-magna-self-sealing-waste-valve/p82878?store=SL&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=558023894541&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAjws8yUBhA1EiwAi_tpEbXHDAOectSETDWLD_I9vBRtodNkE-InSU7Gou5JZZGjXTgm_fUs4hoCRX4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Depends how you like to live I guess. If you think you'll go through it a lot but generally like to keep it closed, then a big heavy slider could be cumbersome. I have a small (2.4m 3 panel) lift and slide, it's mostly open to some degree, unless really cold out. I love that I can leave it open an inch, or 8 inches, or fully and no flapping about in the breeze.

I know someone with a meter that runs backwards due to solar panels. They love it, obviously.

Are your existing foundations deep enough already to allow you to take this much out right next to them? Our building control limited how deep we could go, said if existing foundations were exposed we'd have to underpin.

Also, I realise I've not given enough thought to how it might efficiently operate. My sparky is coming to do first fix next week. Is it possible to have the pump triggered in 3 different ways - - A timer say 7am-10am and 5pm-10pm. (potentially different at weekends) - From front hall occupancy sensor. - From a boost button. Thanks again.

Hi Nick. I've just been mentally prepping myself to do my HRC, some other threads in the past have said to use 15mm on the supply and 10mm on the return leg. But here you're saying all the same. Are there different circumstances for when each method is preferable? For context, my UVC is near the bath+shower so the loop will be running the kitchen + utility. Thanks.

A friend of mines dad was a bathroom fitter, years ago he had a non payer. I don't know how, but he managed to find out they were going on holiday (might have been months / the year after, I can't remember). He took a book and a packed lunch and parked across their drive so they couldn't get out / would miss the flight. They then paid in cash.

Worth having a look at Duration, they have a show room on Canvey Island so not too far away. My mum had an aluminium sliding door from them which she's happy with, my brother fitted it for her and is now considering them for all the doors and windows in his mega extension and renovation starting this year.

Yes plumber had electric crimpers, lovely bit of kit. Plumber also had a kind of reamer that put a chamfer on the inside of end of the plastic pipe, which made a huge difference to how easy it was to push onto the compression fitting.

I did check with the seller before buying, they said 32mm external - 26mm internal. Joined to 28mm copper with these - https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/product/pex-pert-to-copper-adaptors-compression-fit/ Also my plumber (who made all the connections where I'd already laid/prep'd the pipes) used 32mm crimp fittings to add some Ts for bleeding.

That's the pipe I'm using. I bought 3x 25m rolls. 1 roll cut in half runs from the heat pump to near the cylinder and back. (28mm copper to connect to cylinder) The other 2 are flow and return to a distant ufh manifold.

How about this - https://www.underfloorheatingtradesupplies.co.uk/32mm-rifeng-wras-approved-pert-al-pert-multilayer-composite-pipe-x-50m.html

Hi, hope it's OK to bump this thread, it's a similar issue. I have wasps getting into the void between my rafters, via gaps in the eves boards. (vaulted inside with insulation fitted on the underside of the rafters) I plan to remove boards and fit mesh over the winter (when no wasps around hopefully). Will it be OK to leave until winter? I'm worried that the wasps might be able to damage the insulation in the meantime. (foil faced celotex type).

Paired with a linear hob should be good I think. Quite apart from the price of Bora et al, they look to me like a grotty kind of mess magnet that's hard to keep clean, hence the desire to have extract on the wall.

Hoping to see responses to this too, sounds very similar to what I hope to achieve. My thoughts so far are to possibly buy a pop-up downdraft extractor, and rather than use the lifting function, Plumb the extract unit into a self created opening in the wall.

My BCO was happy for an AAV and a "trickle" vent through the roof - only had to be 32mm.

BPC advised me to definitely not site the extract directly over the shower cubicle.

Thank you everyone.

Hi. I'd really like some help/advice with regards to boost switches please. I have a vent axia sentinel kinetic advance s, which I'm running wires for first fix at the moment. I'd like to wire 2 separate switches to boost the unit (1 located nr bathroom and 1 in kitchen). Am I right in thinking the unit itself copes with the timing of the boost, and therefore the switches can just be simple momentary rockers? (I'm hoping so as would like to use a bell press architrave switch). If so, what cable do I need to use please?

Great, thank you ?