G and J

Our BC was happy to see part of the foundations, agreed in advance, as the layout of the site meant we had to dig then pour, dig then pour. Not sure if you've taken a warranty in the end, but out warranty provider had very definite view of what they would and would not accept. In the end they made an additional visit, at a cost, and had to be provided with a multitude of photographs

You have to apply to the valuation office to have council tax stopped, they then advise the local council. We needed to keep paying until we got the decision notice, and although the process took about 6 months the refund was very quick. Take pictures through out the demolishing (unless it's going to be done very quickly....we took several weeks) as you have to evidence the point at which it is uninhabitable (for us roof off/no kitchen or bathrooms). I suspect the process to restart paying will be swifter, but we aren't there yet.

Congratulations and thank you for documenting the project. I have said before we are behind you (now more than a couple of weeks!) but your project has been a touchstone for keeping the faith that we are on the 'right lines'. There is always an element of luck in these things, but often we enhance the luck we are offered, and I think you have both demonstrated that. Wishing you many happy years in your new home.

Hence the question. What matters to you most - a good looking roof or max solar?

Are you using one and a half slates?

A degree of care re the effective panel width may be vital. Our panels are spaced on GSE trays so their total width is more than just n times the panel width itself. We went for 8 panels wide as 9 would have made the verges look too mean. How wide are your slates?

Well, one can always transform PIR off cuts into modern art…. I took ours to the recycling centre, putting it into the non recyclable container. We just worked bloody hard to have as little waste as possible. We’ve got a layer of polystyrene on our slab wherein sits our poo pipes. I did exactly that, I pushed broken up polystyrene beads dry into the air gaps round the pipes after I’d applied the foam to keep them in place. Our DPM then went on top then our PIR, so no danger of the beads floating in screed.

Oh well, if I should have allowed for 12mm ply throughout upstairs then I need to add another line on the “I screwed up” list. Ho humm. But our stairs are in and the levels are set for 9mm total floor covering depth - 6mm ply plus ~3mm of LVT. We’ve no thresholds between rooms as we want a continuous floor treatment throughout. So the electric matting goes onto the chipboard, with the levelling compound. We’ve been recommended a local flooring company who are happy to apply the levelling compound on the UFH mats I install. I’ll be putting the shower trays direct onto the chipboard as I’d rather not see a line of ply under them. Perhaps my next step is to test fit the trays and see how flat, stable and level they are, and then take it from there.

Thank you Nick. Upstairs is Kronospan Fast Clean chipboard. The majority of upstairs will have 6mm ply with posh lino bits glued on. In the main bathroom we will instead have an electric UFH mat thingy with a layer of levelling goo, then the posh lino bits. The UFH mat will not extend under the shower tray, I had assumed it would just sit with the lino butting up against it, but there’s no reason I can’t screw down a layer of 6mm ply if it’s a good idea. I assume the ply still needs priming.

Now don’t all rush in at once lol

So is it just a slight turn to my right then, not like a full pirouette or anything. I’d better make sure I’m not standing next to a wall or I’ll bang my nose as I spin round lol

OK thank you. Do I turn to my left or my right? 😉

I have a cunning plan my lord. Above my UVC I’m going to use a HEP2O 22mm x 10mm manifold daisy chained with a HEP2O 22mm x 15mm manifold, both closed spigot versions. I won’t need to open the closed spigot on the second manifold, but I will the first one. Can I find instructions as to how exactly to do it? Not even slightly. AI tells me to use a HEP2O key (duh!), bless it. But do I just cut it off? If so, where exactly? Where it narrows as indicated my my red arrow? And do I use an insert? Oh the stress! If a passing grown up knows the answers I’d be ever so grateful….

Doesn’t apply to us. We are just outside the conservation area. 😉 As the rotation of the world is slowing anyway, presumably the extra tidal drag will only accelerate the rate of slowing a little, so we’ll be ok for a few generations….

I love this forum. Informative and interesting. Our build is very definitely all the better for our membership. Our bath and two shower trays arrive Tuesday, and I want to fit them el pronto so my next quandary is exactly what I prime the caberdeck equivalent (other brands are available lol) with and which flexible tile adhesive I use. I know I should know this stuff, but hey, throughout the rest of the build I’ve not known what I needed to know, so it’s business as usual at this end. So folks, what’s your favourite primer and sticky for this application?

We're using thermowood battens for our cladding (russwood). Our roof battens were "gold" SIG roofing, which we also plan to use on the man cave cladding

We’ve used both Gerband and the own brand PHS stuff including their spilt release tape for windows. Happy with both to be honest.

I’m sure our geberit cisterns have a 90mm bend connector thingy which then pushes into a 110mm to 90mm reducer. Early in the process I’d planned a soil pipe through posijoists but realised it was just too difficult to actually fit so I replanned to avoid the need.

Is the cell padded with this YBS stuff? If so at least it will be warm. 😉

It’s the endless ‘just’ jobs that trash hours each day. It’s the face in your hands frustration of struggling with an awkward task and being asked by those watching ‘why can’t you just?’ I’ve decided to classify ‘just’ as a swear word. It can join ‘should’ on the banned list.

Thank you NFW. However, I must flag how much I hate that word. Just. Sigh.

I knew there was a reason I wanted to use ct1 lol

For sale, one carefully owner….. lol

They are, so will do. Maybe bulk buying 38 tubes of ct1 wasn’t such a good idea…. Gotcha. Makes perfect sense.

There’s a good few posts advocating that too, and I guess from my point of view both will give a good, strong bond with enough flexibility to endure. I’ve got ct1 and I’ve used it many times so I’m at home with it, hence my preference. But I’m open to other viewpoints.