jack

For the last couple of years, every time I've finish a box of pozis, I've replaced them with the torx equivalent. They're just so much more pleasant to use.

Lovely looking home, well done! Enjoy the rest.

I haven't watched the video, but aggregated data can still be of use even if you don't know the details of individual homes. I wonder whether they do per-house analysis. You can probably learn things by looking at (for example) the variance in temperature across the image of a house. If you have large deviations, for example, there could be cold-bridging.

When you say honed, do you mean a matt finish? We asked for a honed finish on our marble worktops and the supplier talked us out of it. I don't recall their reasoning. When we decided on polished marble worktops, my wife and agreed with each other that we'd be completely relaxed about stains, marks, and etching etc. The worktops are over 8 years old now and still look pretty good despite the extensive visible signs of use. Turning to your question, is it condensation dripping down that's leaving a mark, or water that's made it to the outside of the glass after filling it from the tap? If the latter, could it be limescale? And are you 100% sure it's water and not, e.g., juice or wine? For comparison, we've had zero issues with water marks on ours, and we haven't sealed it since it was first sealed when installed.

We went through a period a few years ago where spammers would join, post a few inoccuous posts, then go back and edit spam into them once they'd disappeared off the front page. It was just about impossible to police. We still get people posting the inoccuous initial posts, but they generally lose interest and stop posting when they realise the editing block is in place. Facebook has its own tools for reducing the impact of spam (on top of actions of the page admins). We don't have anything like that. We have over 40 times as many members as Camelot, but probably a similar number of mods. If anyone wants anything edited, just let a mod know and they'll happily do it for you.

Fixed - let me know if any issues.

Wow, that's amazing. It wasn't that long ago that 6+ months was the norm! I understand that they're now not checking every receipt in every claim, but will instead use sampling. I assume they'll also do a basic check like comparing the size of the house with the size of the claim. Touch wood, but the issue with VAT claims being refused due to HMRC choosing an arbitrary completion date also seems to have faded away. I don't check this form all that often, but I can't remember the last time we had a post on the topic, which is great news.

Quite a few councils have gotten themselves in serious financial trouble by getting involved in housing. The big issue with a lot of the ideas (most of which I like!) in this thread is that they rely on some form of competence in local government.

Came here to say this. Within the limits of our height restrictions, we allocated more height to the downstairs ceilings. We ended up with 2.8 m downstairs and about 2.55 m upstairs. Massive difference in feeling between the two. We also visited friends in their new house recently (a full gut-and-refurb which we hadn't seen before they did the work). It has a large open-plan area downstairs with 2.4 m ceilings. It isn't helped by the massive array of downlights, but the ceiling height is genuinely distracting and makes the whole area feel constrained. Downlights work even worse with low ceilings, because there's less space for the beam to spread. Standing under a downlight at a party isn't that nice given it's not that far from your head!

Whether you go for CAT 6 or 6A, make sure you go for solid copper. Cheaper stuff is likely to be CCA (copper coated aluminium).

Posts now merged.

There've been discussions on here doing this with a scrap electric radiator fan. Mount it to a frame, add a flexible surround (that you can tape to a window or a door), 12 V power supply (ideally variable), and a pressure guage, and you're set.

Kitchen light fittings don't require IP65 ratings, so you're fine to install the fitting you linked to: https://www.electricalcounter.co.uk/ip-ratings

Welcome Alex. Good luck - finding property is always difficult!

Welcome! If you can't find what you're after by searching, ask in the relevant sub-forum and help will be along soon.

And thanks for reading the request! I still end up having to move a lot of threads where people didn't notice. Not sure how we can make it any clearer!

Hi Helen. You'll increase your chances of a response if you start a post in the relevant sub-forum: https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/140-other-heating-systems/ Give as much information as you can. For example, it would useful to know how big the space you want to mount the ASHP (air source heat pump) is and how close it is to the adjacent property. Also, have you considered whether an ASHP is the most appropriate heating source based on the propery's insulation and energy consumption? That's something else that can be discussed if you raise it when you post in the forum above.

I can hear ours when it's running flat chat to heat the DHW tank, but it isn't loud, and it's the sort of noise that completely blends into the background. It's effectively silent when doing heating. The rustling of the adjacent trees in even a slight breeze is much louder. Generally I have to stick my hand in front of the outlet to tell if it's running. For reference, it's a nearly 9 year old Panasonic Aquarea.

Discovered/realised far too late the same thing with balcony steels for my "cold bridge free" MBC build. When I raised it, MBC foamed in PIR insulation then wrapped it in aerogel blanket. I'd probably have gone even further than that if I'd had time to consider it. Someone said to expect mould on the plasterboard where the steel comes into the house, but we've never had a moment's problem in over 8 years.

You can get fan-assisted radiators that can be used for cooling. I'm sure one or two people have mentioned using them. To be honest, I think you'd be better of with aircon in most cases, given the cost per radiator of this type.

Sorry Susan, at least from a search of the word "Baufritz", no-one's posted about them before. Still, it's possible someone might have had interactions with them but not mentioned it. Also, BuildHub will still be a useful place to get information about everything Baufritz doesn't do (if you use them). You can get independent feedback on your house plans, for example, or about landscaping, planning, etc. Good luck.

Hmm, interesting! There are a lot of people in my area who are not following this rule! 😅

There are quite a few Loxone users on here, including me. It's impossible to give you useful short answer, at least partly because there's no such thing as a typical install. I'm very happy with the system. It controls lights, external blinds, and heating. It could do MVHR and other things too, but I've mostly tried to keep things as simple as possible.

I don't want to be having to use my phone in a moving car every time I arrive home. More interesting for me would be some sort of geofencing function that caused it to open as I got near. Worse, my driveway entrance is right at a sharp curve in the road and we can have traffic from both directions suddenly appear as we turn in.

I've been looking at electric gates recently. One thing to look at is cycle time, especially if there isn't space to pull completely off the road while you wait for the gates to open.