jack

Spoonerism alert 🧐 Welcome to the forum.

The same connection is used for both import and export. The inverter manages things automatically based on how much power your panels are producing and how much power your house is using. Perhaps there's a new meter needed?

Ha, I'll try not to read too much into that comment given the subject of the video 🤣

Mushroom, mushroom! (I hope that reference is still current!)

If you're able to leave and decide to go with Octopus, please consider using BuildHub's referral code to get the benefit of £100 split between you and the forum. Details are in the link in my signature. Good luck either way.

The sounds are from the unit itself and airflow within the system, particularly through any throttle points. I doubt putting an attenuator between the unit and the outside will have any impact on the noise at the internal inlets/outlets. These are the standard approach with Ubbink (Brink) manifolds. The designer told us the right number of rings to pop out and everything was close enough that we needed only slight adjustments on the room vents in a couple of places to get everything balanced. I don't know whether there's a way of estimating the number of rings to pop out for other systems.

Welcome to BuildHub. Sounds like an unpleasant position to be in. First thing I'd do is provide some more information. I don't know much about them, but at a guess, that would include: a plan of the site (locations of house, digester, outlet, and connections between them) any information you have about levels (particularly where the unit is supposed to drain) any photos you think might be useful Lots of people on here have experience installing/maintaining these units and I'm sure some of them will be able to help you get this sorted as cheaply as possible once they have the info they need.

Great to hear you've done the boring but effective stuff first. When it comes to window installation (3G or otherwise) you really want to make sure the installers know what they're doing. There are ample horror stories on BuildHub (+ Grand Designs etc) about installers cocking things up. I had plenty of issues - the window installation is one of the two biggest cock-ups I had on our build. If possible, consider having have the supplier arrange the installation, even if it's a bit more expensive. What you don't want is something happening and the supplier blaming the installer and vice versa. If one party is doing both, you completely skip that argument if something goes wrong. I'm sure you're on it, but anything you can do to improve insulation around the frame will help. If the gaps are big, that might include putting in some rigid or rockwool insulation to completely fill the gap before sealing inside and out. You can also use compriband or similar products to provide the outermost seal. The only other thing that jumps to mind is to think about how your windows are mounted. Our installer used galvanised straps, but bent them in such a way that it made plasterboarding very difficult. Good luck.

And the amazing thing is that, despite those numbers, @Pocster is known more for quality than quantity.

Welcome Col!

For anyone using Loxone, there's a module that integrates with ToU tariffs, particularly Octopus Agile: https://www.loxone.com/enen/kb/spot-price-optimizer-uk/ For example, if you predict that you need four hours of heating a day when it's cold, you can tell it to turn the heating on during the four cheapest hours. Given the flexibility of Loxone programming, I'm sure you can probably do a hell of lot more with it as well (e.g., automically turn things on when the energy price is negative). It sounds like it's a bit complicated to set up initially, and not quite perfect in terms of knowing actual prices, but hopefully they'll be able to get full integration working @Dan F:

Are you talking about costs at different times of day or at different times of year? It doesn't really matter. There are cheap and expensive times across the day all year. Most days there is the opportunity to buy cheap (usually overnight, and sometimes at other times) and sell back when power is expensive. He doesn't net an income during winter, but his annual bills overall are way down on what they were. Of course energy on a ToU tariff can be extremely expensive at times. But that's exactly the point - he's generally exporting at those times, so that's to his benefit. Some of the cheaper electric car tariffs are a little trickier to value, because for most of the day you pay a little more than you'd pay on a standard (same rate all day) tariff. It probably depends how much you charge your car on the cheap tariff, and how much of your other usage you can push into the cheap period. I'm on one of these at the moment (albeit with no battery) and it definitely makes financial sense for our usage patterns. The fact we have solar at least partly offsets the higher rate during the day, at least when the sun's out. You don't need to size a battery system to completely cover worst case daily consumption.

No he doesn't. What makes you think that? He still ends up ahead long term taking costs into account. If course, but ToU tariffs are hardly going away. There will always be some benefit to being able to store energy when it's cheap and use (or sell) it when it's expensive. Tariffs will continue to change, certainly, but every change over the last few years has been to the benefit of those with PV and batteries.

I understand that the best use of batteries is to charge them during the cheap period (and run everything else you can at the same time), then sell back to the grid when the payback is highest (typically around teatime). I have a mate with a small solar array and decent battery who consistently nets a couple to a few quid a day most days during summer doing this.

I don't recall there being a particularly big difference between brands that offered cooling, but I last properly looked when I bought mine ~9 years ago! You might want to see how the ones you're looking at allow cooling mode to be enabled. In my case (Panasonic from 9 years ago), it was just a case of entering a sequence via the control pad. At least one manufacturer requires you to buy a module that plugs into the unit. After some investigation, it was found that the module (over £100, from memory) contained a resistor worth a few pence. Worse (or maybe better, depending upon your perspective!), the exact same module is used by the same manufacturer for another purpose and is sold for a few percent of the price for that purpose.

@Bones1, I've made your post a new topic in the planning subforum.

Peter Millard on YouTube is the go-to guy for plunge/tracksaw info:

They were a great company to work with when we built in 2014 - one of the best we used on the whole build. It sounds like they've tightened up and become more professional and organised, which is great.

Definitely not my area of expertise, but did you have a static IP address with your previous supplier, and do any of the apps/software you use require that? If so, you need to get a static address with the new provider, and replace the old static address with the new one in anything that expects it.

I don't know about the cost comparison, but for me the main advantage would be the ability to truly self-build in a reasonably quick manner, without needing joinery or block-laying skills. The costs might be more comparable for someone in that situation given they'd be unable to easily self-build with the other methods.

You've come to the right place. Lots of practical advice from people who've installed ASHPs (air source heat pumps) in many different situations. Post your question(s) in the sub-forum that deals with ASHPs: https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/140-other-heating-systems/

Individual control - in the sense of tightly controlling individual room temperatures - doesn't really work in a passivhaus with underfloor heating. Most of us (me included) on here with a similar setup treat the whole floor as a single zone and run with all loops open at all times. You can adjust flow rates to individual rooms at the manifold so that they get relatively more or less heat than the others. Do you know how the call for heat has been set up with Loxone? The worst way to do it would be to have a simple OR gate, such that any zone can call for heat. Much better would be something like at least two or even three zones calling for heat before triggering a call. Alternatively, or in addition, you could work in some averaging. You can also do more complex stuff like weather compensation (if you have an input for the external temperature). Loxone is insanely powerful for this sort of thing (edited to add:), although I wouldn't suggest that anyone design a system in this way. I'm suggesting it only because you've already paid for and installed all the necessary hardware.

This is good advice. I terminated everything at a patch panel, but several locations just have a coiled up network cable in a backbox, covered with a blank plate.

If the recent spike in energy prices didn't wake people up, I just don't see it happening at all.

I thought I might be able to chip in given we have a pretty big mat well formed at our front door, but it appears we don't!