jack

Good luck @haddock, fingers crossed it works.

Ah yes, sorry. I said I'd take a look and get back to you but I didn't! The fix was to lay a strip of flexible plastic over the top of the polystyrene "hump" that guides the heat exchanger in - something like this: You slide the heat exchanger back on over this, and the channel under the heat exchanger holds it in place (this pic is from your previous post about the problem): The fix from Brink was similar, although they used very thin aluminium tape that tore badly the first time I took the heat exchanger out to clean it. I used some spare DPM I had lying around and it worked really well. The idea is to have it extend far enough out from the sides that any condensation is directed away from the hump to the drain. Also make it a couple of inches longer than the heat exchanger and bend the ends up so that everything is directed away from the ends. I think doing this avoids water passing over joints in the internal mouldings that wick it away to where it shouldn't. I haven't had any problems since I did this. It's also worth checking your drains are clear and that the unit is level. Also, spray around some dilute bleach after you've cleaned it out.

If you swap the supply and exhaust temps it looks about right: Extract 21.6 Exhaust 16.0 Outdoor 14.7 Supply 20.3 Is it possible the temperature sensor leads have been plugged into the wrong sockets on the control board, or have otherwise been swapped?

Did you contact one of the mods or admin about this? I didn't see anything about it but I've been away for a few days. Either way, you've been around long enough and contributed enough that there's a bit of leeway with this sort of thing. For other members reading this (note: speaking generally, and nothing at all to do with @FM2015), please remember to do your due diligence when interacting with any BuildHub member on commercial matters.

This looks great! Not spending the extra time/money to terminate all incoming CAT6 cables, either as you've done it or with a 110 block, is one of my biggest regrets with our Loxone installation.

1. I understand I can submit till receipts from Wickes, B&Q etc. How do I distinguish between items on a particular receipt which I am claiming for, and those I am not? - I put a line through items I wasn't claiming for and wrote in the new totals with those items excluded. 2. If I accidentally claim for something I should not, will it foul the whole claim? If so, what happens then? - Probably not. It's impossible to tell with HMRC, but generally they will just disallow things that they don't believe should have been claimed for. 3. I know have three months from BRegs sign off to make my claim, but getting BR sign-off and actually finishing the house are not the same thing (or will not be in my case). If I get BRegs signoff on 1st November, then buy further SB materials on the 2nd Nov, can I still claim the VAT back on those materials on the 3rd Nov? Or am I limited to items purchased before the BRegs sign-off date? - The three months from BR signoff is a guideline at best. For a long time, HMRC ignored their own guidelines and were using any evidence they could find that people had moved in, and started the three month clock from then. The easiest point for them to show is the property's entry onto the valuation register for council tax. I get the feeling that things might have eased off a bit since the peak of their bad behaviour maybe three years ago, but I'd still be wary of relying on the sign-off date as triggering the three months if I were in a position to file within three months of entry onto the valuation register. - I believe you can include materials up until the time you submit the claim (including after sign-off). If anything, late purchases may support an argument that the house was not yet finished. 4. Has anyone had any serious problems with their reclaims? If so, what caused them? - Mine went through fine, no issues. I'm sure others can comment on their experiences.

Ignoring scale, is it something like this?

If they're in a garage and regularly charging and discharging, it's possible that the temperature inside the case may rarely if ever fall below 12°C. In our garage, the air temperature rarely falls below around 5 or 6 degrees, even during a long period of very cold weather. Also, is your garage attached to the house? If so, there'll be some heating from the house through the common wall. And finally, I'd try and find written confirmation of what you were told. At the moment you just have someone's say-so.

Wow, nice work. It just shows how ridiculous builders merchant pricing is for people walking in off the street. Even with an account and my missus being pretty good at negotiating, they were still almost never the cheapest way of buying things. We mainly used them when we had no choice (time or availability).

Hi Vas (and welcome to BuildhHub). The link becomes available after you have a certain number of posts (10, I think?) and it isn't possible to access it before then. There's short queue of people for the tester in front of you, so it'll probably be a few weeks from now before it's available. If you work on getting the required number of posts in the meantime, I'll add your name to the queue now so you keep your place.

I can't help, but I'm interested to hear whether you get an answer. Ours died a couple of years ago after about 4-5 years of pretty infrequent use. I haven't had time to look at it (well, I had a quick look and concluded, as I nearly always do, that it was a bigger job than I had time for at the time, then never got back to it!)

Yes, follow the link @Bonner posted above and I'll add you to the list. It's been stuck with someone for a while but I've sent a reminder this morning.

Hi @ronald_1978 I'm not sure whether you're aware (and hat-tip to @ProDave who spotted it), but this post can't be replied to by members. I can only reply because I'm a moderator. I think you may have clicked on the circled box when you set it up: I don't think the mods can change this after posting, so if you'd like answers to your questions rather than just poll responses, I'd recommend re-posting your question again as a new poll, without checking that box. Once you've done that we'll delete the first post. Thanks Jack

Every switch in our (Loxone powered) house is a simple spring loaded switch. Two-way for blinds, one way for lights and other things. Works perfectly well. The main issue for me is that the return spring on the Definity Click switches we have is quite aggressive, to the point where it can be hard to click (and particularly to double-click) quietly.

We did this. I left something like 40 mm of height between the doorframe and the wall frame, and lined it with a strip of something like this: (The orange line is where the strip is cut - I cut it slightly narrower than the studwork.) We aggressively chamferred the inner top edge of the door frame along the gap to maximise transfer. I've never particularly noticed any sound transfer through these openings. Noise-wise, I can't see any reason why it would be any worse than a 10 mm, unlined gap under the door.

Please continue the conversation here rather than duplicate the topic in this forum:

Just to be clear, satellite cable is one type of coax cable, so don't necessarily be put off if you see the word "coax" used in the description. Yes, I think that's right. Good discussions here:

TV, game console, and sky box wouldn't be an unusual combination.

I should add that the blinds that are under overhangs (800-1000 mm) aren't rained on and they're much dirtier than those that are.

Or this! https://www.amazon.co.uk/External-blinds-cleaner-Sunblind-LR-180-GTR/dp/B07SSB4MWV

I have them. They probably ought to be cleaned regularly, but I haven't gotten around to it in the 7.5 years since they were installed. We went with a shade of grey that we thought might hide the dust and it largely works! I was planning to do it - or, better yet, get my kids onto it - this summer. I was going to wait until an overcast day, hose them down, then use a pressurised pump sprayer to spray on some detergent (not sure what type yet) and leave it for a while before hosing it off. We have one of those car-washing brush attachments for the hose that I might try on the more visible ones (e.g., near the front door) once the detergent's done its work.

For context, our house tends towards being relatively cool in winter given its PassivHaus levels of airtightness and insulation. A lot of this is larger areas of glazing, especially to the north. We certainly seem to use a bit more energy for heating than some with similar sized PassivHaus-type houses. We went away for Christmas and most of January a few years back. The house was empty for a month. I turned off the heating, hot water, and every appliance other than the fridge and freezer. When we got back, the house was around 14 °C. If you add back in incidental heat from people, pets, cooking, hot water generation and storage, showering, appliances, downstairs heating (if you need it to maintain 19 °C), and anything else, there's no way you'll maintain anything like even 12 °C upstairs without active cooling even in winter. Where did you get the 10-12 °C idea? As others have said, that's a worryingly low temperature range in terms of house (and hence occupant) health. More to the point though, 10 °C is bloody cold. My wife complains if it's less than about 18 °C, and even I don't like getting out of bed in the morning if it's much below that sort of temperature.

I've been following this in the forum because we've been planning to get a Zappi for a while. I believe the Zappi is about to be added to the compatibility list for intelligent octopus. I believe they're in final testing. That's only for the 6 hours of cheap charging though. I don't know what that means for charging the car using solar.

Have you tried the Myenergi forum? I've found it pretty good.

You can run whatever you need. I can't remember the current ratings of the different extensions, but I vaguely recall that some are physical relays and some are solid state. I use some for zero volt switching and others for mains switching. You can also use low them to switch low voltage DC and use that to drive a chunky relay if needed.