Gav_P

I wasn’t convinced it would work when I first decided to go for it. (I previously had 2 BT home hubs and they were struggling). So I decided on the cheapest available at the time, which was the TP-Link Deco M4. 3 units for £99.99 delivered the next day. For me it was a cheap punt that worked out really well. If it doesn’t work for you, just return it to Amazon... they do seem to have a brilliant returns service. Both my wife and I work from home (lots of video conferencing) and when my daughter was online with school, we had no performance issue with the connection. I only have 36mbps maximum where I live, but now using the Deco mesh I have that speed everywhere. If you are likely to have higher performance broadband (higher than 100mbps) then you would want a higher grade system like the M5 (I think) which also has smaller disc shaped units which are easier to hide. Also it’s seem less if you are moving around the house, no dropping out and reconnecting to a different hub, which happens with WiFi extenders I believe.

That’s exactly why I am so pro the mesh system. I don’t have any reduction in speed anywhere. That with 90cm stone walls and at the bottom of the garden. Just need one unit by the router (supplied by your ISP) and place the others by a power socket elsewhere in the house.

I’ve said it else where in another thread, but I can’t say enough positive things about getting a TP-link Deco mesh system. Full coverage all over the house and garden. Easy to set up from the app with a step by step guide. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Deco-M4-Seamless-Coverage-Replacement/dp/B07NH1J543/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Mesh+Network&qid=1609868676&sr=8-3

Based on my experience, although they had a fairly decent u value (afaicr), any consideration to sash windows needs to focus on the draft proofing and tolerance between frame and unit.

Scary idea! Concrete and steel towers burn well enough as it is! Although I do like the idea of a timber framed house next.

I just dumped my shed (aka office) on a scaffold board timber deck. Built the shed and then lined it all with 40mm pir. I chucked laminate flooring down and it’s solid, no bouncing about. Stays toasty warm with a little £10 oil radiator thingy. Tell her she’ll get what she gets and be grateful about it! ... unless she wants to dig the base and barrow the concrete in. ??

That would be really interesting... maybe a blueprint to others applying ?

Ah I’m probably getting mixed up with a paragraph 55 application, which I guess this one had given it was in an AONB.

It’s got to be good for the rest of us though hasn’t it? We have some land in green belt which wouldn’t normally get PP, but if this has, then s73 is clearly easier than I thought!

I think you’re unlikely to feel the difference by hand. I don’t think they should feel warm, if they are warm then it’s probably too hot. I can only describe mine as not cold. Which keeps the house at a level 21-22 degrees.

Unless it was an intentional hook?

It’s less than 100 I would assume as the wall is 290 including plaster and render. Unfortunately I’m in Bristol area so don’t think Crump would be a viable option.

I could also do this, although I’d rather not as that means completely redoing the rooms internally. The reason for removing the insulation is because it’s got wet and slumped in the cavity. So wet insulation at the bottom and nothing at the top.

Has anyone done cavity wall insulation removal? It seems to be a process using high pressure airline and an industrial side vacuum. I am thinking about giving it a go to replace the crap 80s stuff with new full fill beads.

I find it strange that it’s not been defined in any of the design specs, or the site plan or some such. The water is flying out the blue pipe, and are the bubbles there from some detergent or just from airation? Is it some sort of grey water soak away?

Oooo do we have a winner??!!

UHF pipes go on top of the insulation in the screed.

Isn’t that more because pigs need a high amount of water regularly. I think that 8 hours or something without water has a significant impact on them. So the tanker was more for emergency storage than pressure.

100% agree with Gus here... especially regarding your personal relationship with them being critical. Finding a PM with experience in self build type construction with the high level of quality and attention to detail, is really hard to find. Possibly because there typically isn’t good money in PMing small builds (below £1m) so they move off to bigger projects quickly.

? no comment

Do it yourself. Save a fortune and you will get it done the way you want. Note: I am a project manager.... it’s not rocket science

Assuming you have decent mains water pressure, then exact as PeterW said.. you just need an unvented cylinder as this will deliver hot water at mains pressure.

Is it marked on any of you drawings?

This is exactly what the contingent valuation considers... the harder to measure items that you are happy to pay for.

Mmmm toasty!!