FuerteStu

My top tip for wow factor.. Think of where your Windows look out to, and what's there you can make a feature of. It's wonderful when there's a nice seating area with an arbour, roses growing over the side, but if it can only be seen by standing in the garden, it's lost. I know someone who paid 50k for a kitchen redesign, but standing at the sink you look at the back of a range rover and 3 wheel bins. Any wow factor can be lost by not taking into consideration what you see beyond the gimmick

My only concern about those wires is the grey sheath.. Isn't that the tasty oily stuff that rats love to nibble on?

I refer to those 'wiring centres' as idiot boxes.. Wiring by numbers.

Mine, for reference..

Planning specified a traditional looking dormer only on my loft conversion.. After a few back and forths, they accepted a full width Dormer on my bungalow, front and back. In reality, it's entirely new warm deck box on top on my bungalow with a artificial (non structural) ridge and a row of tiles down the sides. I had to adjust the pitch of the gables to accommodate the raised ceiling height, but planning went with it, because it 'looks'. Like a traditional dormer loft.

I've seen SWA in a plastic Stuffing gland with a few strands twisted together and terminated into the MET. It tested with effective results, it was still potentially dangerous as any strain on the cable would transfer to the cores, not the armour. To me the armour is additional protection through bonding, not a reliable cpc. Plumbers shouldn't be touching anything other than flex.. I've seen them use the cpc in twin as a neutral for smart thermostats and say 'that's alright blue isn't as dangerous as brown'.. Idiots

Car charging is a short term problem. Unless you're running a commercial kitchen, or a 12 bedroom with outbuildings, there is no need for the risk 400v in a domestic environment.

I would Wrap some tape around the cores.. Just to identify them. It doesn't have to cover the old colour completely, just to identify which core is being used for each conductor. (I usually Wrap a 3" piece of insulating tape every 4" or so to old cores not identified)

3 core swa is coloured 3 phase as standard.. The vast majority of swa cable is used in industrial or commercial situations. Lots of motors and pumps run on 3 phase wiring, often with no neutral as the loads are balanced,and in a star formation. The armour being used as circuit protection (bonding). You can buy standard coloured swa (blue, brown, yellow/green) but it's not as common. BS7671 says that line conductors and bonding should be identified.. Standard is to sleeve with heatshrink, or Wrap with insulating tape. Usually, brown stays the same, black is the earth, and grey is the blue. But always Double check both ends are the same.

My architect charged me double what my structural engineer did. And it was clear that the Architect just copy and pasted most of his work. His designs were unworkable too (steel sitting on a non-load bearing internal wall) Wish I'd never used him, and he had good recommendations too, I'd hate to think what one of the bad ones would have produced

I recommend out of reach network gear to be run through a fused switch in an accessible place, just inside a cupboard perhaps.

My current favoured method is twin and earth in and out of each switch plate, with 3 core and earth up to the lights. Logic being... - There's a neutral at the switch for smart switches - You can take a permanent live up to lights for smart lights. - The potential for two switched lives and a neutral to the lights for two banks of lights without additional cables. - Future fault finding isnt working at height or taking down light fittings.

Personally, I'd have said access was a bit iffy, could have been mounted so you could actually check on it. Also, the power supply. How's it fed? Do you have an easy access 'turn it off and on again' switch if its in a loft?

What's the plan for banister/handrail? Or are you getting Stanna in for a stairlift?

My concern here is that when you cut OSB thin, it loses its strength, and water resistance. The cut edges need to be resealed. Also, OSB edges are rubbish for fixings, they tend to blow out and split easily. That's why manufactured beams are mostly timber topped and bottomed.

"we can't have self driving cars, there was one person who got hurt by one month's ago..." *(ignore the fact that there are people killed by humans on the road every day)* Self drive is safer that human drivers, and will only get safer the more miles they do. So what's this got to do with this post anyway?

Im not sure if there is a straight to waste from 22? But could you use a small washing machine Rubber drain hose into a macalpine?

Solar powered lights behind their eyes..

Is the crack mirrored in the other side of the room?

Would you need to know if it was discharging? I've seen a pressure release dumping Mains water down a drain for months unnoticed.

Have you thought about getting 6 toddler outfits with welly boots, and putting a plastic bottle of red paint inside each one.. Hidden camera, easy £250

I've been Instagraming the progress! @stunchezloft I'm 7 weeks into the project, but a year in the thinking and hoping for it

When viewing rental properties a few years back, we found a neighbour has plugged one of these from shed to shed at the bottle of the garden to pinch power. When I asked if there was a condition report done, the agent said "yes of course we've got the same guy checking all our properties".. "then I won't be renting any of your properties" I replied. 😂

When I first did my 17th a decade ago it was a safe zone.. Never could understand why the edges of a chimney breast were 'safe' though.

There is the outside chance that it's the end of a radial, he hasn't specified what type of breaker it's feed from. Socket radials are much more common thanks to the influx European labour