FuerteStu

When I first did my 17th a decade ago it was a safe zone.. Never could understand why the edges of a chimney breast were 'safe' though.

There is the outside chance that it's the end of a radial, he hasn't specified what type of breaker it's feed from. Socket radials are much more common thanks to the influx European labour

Every roof is different, mine was a cut roof with the old ceiling supported by it. I had to use props and beams in most rooms, and demolish the old roof in 400mm sections, replacing with new Posi joists and nailing the old 3x2 joists that helps the ceiling to the new ones. Nightmare job really, mine was a complicated build too, with an atrium in the middle and a made on site Truss supporting one side of the new joists and the roof Let's just say it was 4 weeks not 4 days, and a temporary roof scaffold was essential, but that was a lone worker with no crane.

Then that socket is probably already a Spur.. And you won't be amble to extend it without, not without a fused connection unit in there. You'll need to derate the protection on the cable because it will probably be fed with a 32A breaker

I'm using plastic push fit below floor, soldered copper up and down to the rads. Price and speed are a factor, but also potential for changes in the future. Not to mention long runs of copper always tick tick tick when heating up and cooling down

This fossil fuel industry will be looked back upon as the tobacco industry is now. Bribing leaders, false science, price fixing.. Except it won't be a few hundred million getting cancer, it will be the entire planet ruined.

Safe zones are for buried cables, not ones clipped on the surface under the counter

Kitchen units have a services gap behind them. It's common to fix wiring and Pipes to the wall just below the worktop, popping up to the sockets. How easily could you lift the worktop off? That could be your solution, if not, then lift floor boards upstairs and reroute one leg of the ring to drop down the other side of the window, and add a link between the two Sockets. Then you maintain the ring.

I've just built a loft conversion using Posi-joists (steel web joists) and would recommend in terms of structural build. I know there are benefits of CLT but do those benefits outweigh other construction methods to achieve the same results?

I totally agree! The problem with being a 'visionary' is having to make good on those visions. 😂

Found this place from Google searches, was looking for solutions to a few problems and a couple of times this place has the answers so I signed up! I'm a spark (mainly industrial) by trade, but worked as a formwork chippy before.. Either I'm brave or stupid, but I'm 3/4s finished on the shell of my loft conversion, all the works done myself. But the interiors will be ongoing for several months. What sub-forum is a good place to post about my project? There doesn't seem to be a place for ongoing projects.

Actually, there are workarounds.. (I'm currently finishing my loft conversion where I took the entire roof off, but left the ceilings.. Although it was a nightmare mainly due to this summers lack of summer)

I've seen some explosive situations with grinder discs, mainly the 1mm cutting discs on metal. Not enough is taught these days about supporting what you're cutting. The two sides of the piece being cut bite into the sides of the disc and boom!

In part yes, but it's more a case that they were cheaply made with many imperfections. Most steal reenforced concrete has 'cover', a thickness of concrete before the steel that's supposed to stop moisture causing the steel to oxidise (oxidation expands causing the concrete to crack) The problem with this type is that the aerated concrete was supposed to be small bubbles, but in reality, they were large and allowed water in too easily

From what I've seen, most of the buildings affected area public ones built fast and cheap.. Yet another example of signing off poor working practices in the name of cost cutting. They knew threse buildings were crumbling years ago, but kicked the cost of repairing them down the road until the next election..

I use the Chinese method to avoid PPE.. Jokes aside, the position on the cutting blade you make contact with and the relative force will define the direction of the debris. With practice, you can guide most of the sparks/dust in the right direction.

Regardless of the link, it looks like both red and yellow are fed from the same brown. My guess, is that the new (brown and blue) cable in the fan Isolator comes from the light, and is fed with a permanent supply. To fix this he'll need a 3 core cable from the fan Isolator with both permanent live and switched. Unless of course the fan has a humidistat.. But I would still want a switched live taken to it to remove any smells, not just damp

Just bear in mind that that solution would mean taking off the entirety of the existing roof and you'll have issues with it being livable during that time. You will struggle getting a temporary roof scaffold with access to lift in the trusses. I'm just finishing my project (bungalow loft conversion) where I had to do similar.

There's something not right about the strategically stacked loft junk in the picture. They are covering up something. Big red flag It all seems to be put where I would have assumed a Truss would have sat to support that nook. I would ask for the junk to be moved and more photos taken.

Hello all, My Double full width Dormer will only have one row of tiles down the sides and one row of tiles along the ridge and the bottom into the guttering.. My question is about lead flashing and soakers I've got weatherboard cladding to fit over the Dormer, the membrane I was planning to take across in one piece. My brain says I need lead flashing and soakers, but it will be covering 1/3 of the tiles, and I've seen so many pictures online of cladding going down to the tile and no visible lead. Any ideas, suggestions on something that won't look too horrible, expensive or difficult to fit? (for reference, they will be concrete square tiles, double grooved. I've got a dry verge kit and dry ridge kit)